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We are Forrest and Mary Clark, full-timers from Wisconsin. We sold our house in Beloit and left the kids and grandkids behind at various places in WI in August, 2012. We thought we had our long term "home on the road" when we bought a brand-spanking-new 2012 Fleetwood Terra 34E in the summer of 2011. It served us well for a summer of travels and a few other trips but when we began to live in it full-time the construction deficiencies became obvious. Don't get me wrong. It is a fine coach for a family with a kid or two who take weekend trips most of the warm months and go on one or two longer vacation trips each year. In that scenario, it would be great. It isn't for us.

We ran into Clarke and Elaine Hochwald in Cedar Key, FL, this past winter and enjoyed hearing about their Newell and their experiences with it. We also enjoyed getting to know Clarke and Elaine; they are two great people and Clarke's constant references to the Newell Gurus made me interested in this group. That same month, we also got to meet Forest and Cindy Oliver and see the outside of their beautiful coach. Well, their former coach since they now have a new one.

We are seriously looking at Newell coaches as a replacement for our present coach. And older Newell is what we'll have to get, but the solid construction and dependable operation are important to us. Most of the looking here on the Gurus forum is done by Forrest who dutifully reports to Mary all he is learning. She then asks insightful questions that causes Forrest to go back to reading to find more answers.

Thanks to everyone who has made us feel welcomed in the forum.

Forrest and Mary Clark
Full-timing, formerly from Wisconsin
presently in a 2012 Fleetwood Terra 34E with a 2010 Honda Fit towed,
two kayaks on top of the car as we travel and in the water wherever we can find a place to paddle.

Does any one have a source for a compression fitting for the air operated dump valves? It takes a 1/4" tubing to 10/32 unf thread. I don't want the push in type, but I do want metal fittings.

i changed the mac valve out on the bode air door today hoping it would fix my problem. i did learn about how to adjust the opening and closing speed/rate on the air entrance door

on the mac valve there are two set screws. they are pilot screws to adjust the airflow. the top one as you look at the valve in the unit is the open and the bottom is the close. counterclockwise is faster and clockwise is slower. it takes a little playing with but i got it where i want it.

it is best to start with them most of the way clockwise so the door doesnt slam open and close if you put a new valve in.

then back them off a turn or two and check and repeat.

tom

I am looking at a 99 Newell #505 and would like to contact the
factory in order to find out what has been done to coach. Who and what # to call? Thanks Chappell

The 110v air compressor has been running about every 30 minutes so I knew there was air leaking somewhere.
Steve Bare lent me his Inficon leak detector for a couple days while we're parked overlooking Table Rock lake.
This morning I went through each compartment and found 2 leaks. One was the air valve to open the generator slide. It looked like it was leaking around the valve body somewhere. I checked the screws and they were tight. Then I rotated the knob clockwise a couple turns and the leaking stopped. I'll keep my eyes and ears on this one to make sure it doesn't start again.
The big leak was a loop of 1/4" tubing that was capped off in one of the compartments. Looks like either a spare or something that may have been removed? by a previous owner.
The fitting at the end was leaking. I couldn't hear it at first but the detector picked it up pretty quickly. Once I stretched out the tubing to fix it then I could hear the leak with my old ears. I cut off the tubing and put on a new plug then checked it with the detector and no leaks!
Now I'm just waiting to see how long before the compressor runs again.
Thanks again Steve.

I know a lot of you guys use the Silverleaf computer interface thingy to display engine data on a laptop. I love the idea of being able to display engine information wirelessly on a tablet device.

I am working with Ray Davis. He has built a similar / different way of doing exactly that. His box plugs into the maintenance port and then creates a network that your iDevice can talk to and display data. His system works on Prevosts and Wanderlodges, and I am trying to get it to work on my bus.

We are having trouble getting the interface box to talk on the engine bus.

Do any of you experts have information regarding engine monitoring of our coaches? Pinouts for the maintenance port? Protocol(s)? Any other information that might be helpful?

Thanks!
bill

hi all,

there has been much discussion among us over the years as to the price of the air valves that have the solenoids on them on the 6 pack manifold front and rear. some coaches have 18 of them, some have 12. they go for 120 bucks apiece.

most of us have bought one or two over the years. i bought a complete air suspension setup that was new old stock for a monaco a year ago that had 6 of them on a hwh manifold. they have a different looking coil, but the round valve body is the same.

the HWH part number is RAP1940. so far we have only found them direct from HWH or from Newell.

i talked to HWH and showed them a picture of the ones i got from the manifold i bought and they said they used that coil for a little while.

richard figured out a way to rebuild the seal/seat, which is what leaks on these things over time. but, since high quality MAC valves are like 40 bucks it seems like we should be able to find a suitable substitute for what we have.

i have seen 3 different version of the same valve. the originals were KIP valves (but what i think is that the metal, actual valve body with the seals on have been made by the same company all along and that the solenoid is the piece that changes.) the original one appears to be brass and the newer one is a silver color.

the original ones on my 02 are this and the new one i bought from newell was the same

av a5983-103

12v 9.5w (the detrol one i have is 16w)

125 psi

3/32 orfice

the ones i got on the NOS manifold had a Detrol Fluids product solenoid on it. i called and talked to them and sent pictures and they said they still make the solenoid. and they said they used to bundle it with the valve body but do not any more. they said the metal valve body was made by firestone. they said they would see if they could get a part number for the valve body but i am not optimistic.

what we need almost all the time is the valve body and not the solenoid, you can reuse that..

so can we pool our resources and big brains to find it somewhere?

i will contact firestone and see if anyone can help me there.

any other thoughts?

tom

Gang,

I talked to one of the Newell guys today...and was encouraged by what I heard. He said that they have been working 12 hour days in the service department and that all the new units have been sold and they are booked for the next year.

I think this bodes well for our favorite coach manufacturer! It is also good news for those of us that have Newells. Based on the fact that business is good in Miami, I expect that the value of our units will stay the same or maybe actually increase.

I have heard nothing but positive comments about the change at Newell and can't wait to see what the future holds.

Cheers,
bill

Gang,

I was digging around behind the panel above the driver and I found this (see photo) laying in the bottom of the cabinet.

Lets play what is it and what does it do!

I think I know what it is...but I want to see what you guys think.

Cheers,
bill

Okay, so we got the bode door fixed and now we can lock our coach!

We had used original code to lock our coach .Original owner was in bad health before selling his coach and we never got walk trough etc.
He past away after ick for whole year ( owned 3 other Newells )

So, our case is Cheryl can lock with lock buttom from the inside and coach is locked.

If i use keypad and et the code , coach won't lock ? each time you push the code sound and light is there and final sound comes up, but door will open when you hit the silver buttom.

Can we try to re code the pad or there are other thing might need to be don?

Its seems like the door's keypad got confused after we worked on the air door part.

Les