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  Anyone stying in Tucson AZ Jan/Feb ?

Posted by: les korcala
12-21-2012, 10:59 AM
Forum: Get Togethers
- No Replies

    Hello,

Wanted to find out if anyone is stying beween January & February in Tucson area ?
Booked 2 months in at Adventure Bound Tucson RV Park
We would love to meet any Newell owners wile there.

I attached map of our 2013 travel

Best,
Les

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  Aquahot plenum 12v blower motor

Posted by: smagown
12-21-2012, 09:55 AM
Forum: Heating Systems
- Replies (51)

My 12v blower motor for my front plenum is seized up.It's located in the first bay behind the front wheels. The box is made of aluminum and plastic with rivets and aluminum sealing tape. Looks like I have to drill the rivets to access the dual squirrel cage fan motor. Does anyone know the model of the motor? I think Russ said he has done this if I recall correctly.
Thanks,

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  test thread

Posted by: encantotom
12-21-2012, 08:37 AM
Forum: Suggestions
- No Replies

blah blah blah

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  pressure switches for 12v and 110v compressors

Posted by: encantotom
12-20-2012, 09:04 AM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (2)

on my 02 here are the pressure switch part numbers.

for the 12v pump

Square D 9013FYG2

on 20 psi
off 40 psi

120v pump

SQUARE D Pressure Switch, 80-100PSI, 1Port, DPST, 10A


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Pressure Switch, Air Compressor, Standard Action, Factory On/Off Set 80 to 100 PSI, Pressure Range 20 to 100 PSI, Fixed Differential, Differential Pressure 20 PSI, Burst Pressure 220 PSI, Port Type 1-Port 1/4 In NPS (Female), Diaphragm Actuation Type, Single/Three Phase, DPST Contact Type, 10 Amps, NEMA 1 Enclosure, Temp Range -22 to 257 F, Standards UL/CSA

Grainger Item # 5B418
Your Price (ea.) $21.85
Brand SQUARE D
Mfr. Model # 9013FHG2J2

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  Tow Bar Advice

Posted by: Flick
12-20-2012, 08:55 AM
Forum: Towing
- Replies (23)

Guys when we bought our 84 coach this summer along with the many things it came with tucked in here and there was a RoadMaster tow bar. I forgot the model but it is one of the higher levels. I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler I would like to set up to tow. The coach has a hutch and is wired for lights.

Local RV place wants $459 for baseplate and another $450 to install it. They also want $250 to wire the jeep for lights. I can find the baseplate online for $329 I think. So my questions? Should I have a pro do this or can I install it? Should I wire the lights or should I just buy the magnetic ones for $50 bucks and stick it on the jeep each time we tow? Any other pointers or suggestions would be appreciated.

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  Eastern South Dakota campgound

Posted by: rheavn
12-20-2012, 08:49 AM
Forum: Big Rig Friendly places to go
- Replies (5)

Does any one have a 45' friendly campground somewhere between Sioux City, SD and Mitchell, SD?

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  Dump valves

Posted by: rheavn
12-19-2012, 12:23 PM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (8)

Since Les Korcala is having problems with his dump valves I thought I would repost my experience with the maintenance of my dump valves.

It was finally time to take on a maintenance issue that no one really likes. I hope my experience will help others. I read everything I could on the dump valves, as they are different than any other coach I have owned, so I had an idea of what I was going to encounter. My coach has three dump valves. Two air valves and one manual valve.

I started with the manual valve in the main water bay. I could pull the valve to the full open position, but I could not get it to seat in the closed position, so I suspected a problem. There are two screws on the top surface of the valve below the handle(if manual valve) or air cylinder(if air valve) that hold the dump valve in the housing. I tried to just pull up, but it didn't budge. I used a small rubber hammer & got it to move and was able to pull it straight up & out. Some one had used a small amount of silicone and that is probably why I couldn't just pull it out. The valve seal was "ruffled" which meant it was bad and needed to be replaced. This valve showed no evidence of maintenance.

I then went to the air dump valve in the main water bay. This is the main dump valve I use and there was silicone grease visible so it looked like it had received maintenance. Since I've been using this valve I presumed it was good. I drained the air system & disconnected the air lines. I unscrewed the two screws that hold the valve in the housing. I pulled straight up & it came right out. The seal was "ruffled" rather badly & needs to be replaced.

I then went to the air dump valve that is located in the rear of the AquaHot bay on the opposite side as the main water bay. This valve did not move when air was applied, so I knew this valve had issues. I disconnected the air lines. I unscrewed the two screws that hold the valve in the housing. I tried to pull straight up, but it didn't move. I tried the small rubber hammer & still no movement. I got a bar & set up a lever. After several attempts I got it to move & slowly was able to lever it out. It came out very hard. When it did come out there was no seal. The seal was wedged in the housing. I tried many different hooking tools, but to no avail. With a screwdriver I worked it to the bottom of the housing and over to the discharge side. All this was done in the blind and by feel as it was too tight an area to get in & look into the housing. The discharge end of the dump pipe had a 90 turn which kept me from a look from that end. After much thought I remembered a manual spring snake I bought over 40 years ago---wasn't sure I still had it. After a long search I found it. I was able to "snake" the seal out in about five minutes. The seal was badly swollen, distorted and torn. There was no signs of any maintenance.

My after job analysis is that one is better to maintain these valves a little more often, before you cause yourself BIG PROBLEMS. The seals are a $6.35 item. The one main air valve that showed signs of maintenance came out easily. If they had all come out easy I could do the entire maintenance job, even installing any needed seals, in about an hour. Obviously I have many hours invested so far.

I attached a photo of the distorted seal, the air dump valve, the area I had the problem and the spring snake I used.

Hope this is helpful.....................

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  Newell Sponsored Rally in Fort Worth

Posted by: Fulltiming
12-19-2012, 10:15 AM
Forum: Get Togethers
- Replies (21)

Please check out http://www.newellcoach.com/2012/12/03/ne...-3rd-2013/ for information on the upcoming Newell Rally in Fort Worth, TX. As the link indicates, the Rally will be April 29th - May 3rd, 2013. The price is yet to be finalized but is estimated to be around $2,500 for a coach with 2 people. Georgia and I have attended several Newell Rallies and have been very pleased. They are significantly different than the mini-rallies. Activities are pre-arranged, daily happy hour is provided, and full hookup site and excellent food at noteworthy locations is included in the price. Some older coaches are in attendance and are welcomed, although most of the Newell sponsored rallies attendees have fairly new coaches. One of the great things about Newell is that I have never found a difference in the way you are treated whether you have a brand new Newell or a 20 year old Newell. The attendees we have met have been extremely gracious and fun loving individuals. As you might expect, the emphasis is on social activities rather than working on coaches.

Georgia and I will likely attend this rally since it is just a few hours up to road.

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  FS: Demco Aluminator Towbar

Posted by: folivier
12-19-2012, 08:12 AM
Forum: Towing
- Replies (1)

Nobody needs a good towbar?
Rated 5000#, asking $200 OBO
If anyone is interested I can bring it to the rally in June, otherwise it'll go into storage for now.

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  New problem with air brake pedal leak

Posted by: les korcala
12-18-2012, 03:41 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (35)

                    Hello,

I was working on problem with air leak from Air Brake pedal system and ran in to much bigger problem then I was asking for !

We are still stying at RV park for another week or so and hope to fix it.

What I was trying to do as severl mentioned to replace the air hose coming in to the air pedal cyclinder and its union to change to better fitting.
I tried to loose the brass nut by the pedal's brake cylinder & I think its head broke off! scary sound all the air come of the small hole , lots of it , all of it!

if the nut is broken off and its threads are still inside of the cylinder! Looks like big problem ! Iam going to figure out how to remove it?

I wanted to take the hose and the brass union and take to local NAPA and get new better fitting since the old one was leaking lot of air.

As Chester sugested Newell cut the hoses way to short and the hoses are stiff and puts lot of stress at angle and create air leak at the fitting part of it!

Please help if anyone has any tips!

Now looks like I need to replace entire hose section? is any of you knows where the other end of the hose goes? I noticed it swings to the left from the brake pedal, is perhaps somhere near generator area?
I have attched images of the brass nut and fitting parts.

Les

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