[Jack Houpe]

Brad I think you found the culprit.

[hypoxia]

Played around with a few screwdriver extensions and was able to make sure pump spun freely.  Found the culprit.  I don't think the capacitor is supposed to look like this.  Headhunter shipped out a new one and all is well with the world.

Ouch!  Duh, that one caught me by surprise; tunnel vision.  I do carry a spare though.  Thanks for the update.

[hypoxia]

Reviving this Mach 5 thread.  If not used for a couple of weeks the pump motor would not turn.  I would use the tool I made to break it loose and it would work.  I removed the pump and disassembled it to replace the seal.  The spring on the seal was clogged with mineral deposits and would not move.  I soaked it in vinegar which cleaned it up & is like new with good spring action.  I had wondered why when I used the tool to break it loose it would flex before releasing.  The ceramic seal is mounted in rubber which caused the flex.  I will save the seal for emergency use, a new one from Headhunter is on the way.

To disassemble the Mach 5, remove the 6 long screws with a 5mm allen wrench & pull the pump end off.  Remove the small plug covering the end of the armature and use a screwdriver to hold the armature while removing the 13mm nut from the pump shaft.  Slide the pump from the shaft one piece at a time being careful to not break any of the plastic pieces.  Slide the spring loaded seal from the shaft and using a pick, pull the rubber mounted ceramic disk out.  Installation is just the opposite, do not touch the seal surface with your hands and don't pit anything on it.  No oil, etc.

                                   

[[email protected]]

Reviving this Mach 5 thread.  If not used for a couple of weeks the pump motor would not turn.  I would use the tool I made to break it loose and it would work.  I removed the pump and disassembled it to replace the seal.  The spring on the seal was clogged with mineral deposits and would not move.  I soaked it in vinegar which cleaned it up & is like new with good spring action.  I had wondered why when I used the tool to break it loose it would flex before releasing.  The ceramic seal is mounted in rubber which caused the flex.  I will save the seal for emergency use, a new one from Headhunter is on the way.

To disassemble the Mach 5, remove the 6 long screws with a 5mm allen wrench & pull the pump end off.  Remove the small plug covering the end of the armature and use a screwdriver to hold the armature while removing the 13mm nut from the pump shaft.  Slide the pump from the shaft one piece at a time being careful to not break any of the plastic pieces.  Slide the spring loaded seal from the shaft and using a pick, pull the rubber mounted ceramic disk out.  Installation is just the opposite, do not touch the seal surface with your hands and don't pit anything on it.  No oil, etc.

Thanks for the write up Jim and the pictures! I am sure this will help someone, if not me down the road some day.

I have had some intermittent issue with mine wanting to keep cycling. I had assumed it was an air pocket in the pump, mainly because it seemed to happen when I would connect city water to fill the coach and forgot to turn off the water pump and it seemed to cause this cycling. To get it to stop I usually turn the pump off and connect to city water and run the faucet at full open to clear any air out of the system, seems to work to stop the cycling issue. 
I will take a closer look and see if maybe its leaking at the seal and that is what is actually causing it to cycle.

[hypoxia]

Good thing to look at. My system will hold water pressure for weeks with the pump off. Also, Headhunter suggested setting the accumulator 1 PSI lower than the pump kick in pressure of 38PSI in my case. I have my adjustment set the highest it will go.

[360]

Thanks for the write up Jim and the pictures! I am sure this will help someone, if not me down the road some day.

I have had some intermittent issue with mine wanting to keep cycling. I had assumed it was an air pocket in the pump, mainly because it seemed to happen when I would connect city water to fill the coach and forgot to turn off the water pump and it seemed to cause this cycling. To get it to stop I usually turn the pump off and connect to city water and run the faucet at full open to clear any air out of the system, seems to work to stop the cycling issue. 
I will take a closer look and see if maybe its leaking at the seal and that is what is actually causing it to cycle.

Anytime mine cycles like that I shut the pump off, open all faucets (sinks, shower, wet bay) and then turn it back on and let it clear the air pockets.

[[email protected]]

Good thing to look at.  My system will hold water pressure for weeks with the pump off.  Also, Headhunter suggested setting the accumulator 1 PSI lower than the pump kick in pressure of 38PSI in my case.  I have my adjustment set the highest it will go.

Appreciate it!

---

Thanks for the write up Jim and the pictures! I am sure this will help someone, if not me down the road some day.

I have had some intermittent issue with mine wanting to keep cycling. I had assumed it was an air pocket in the pump, mainly because it seemed to happen when I would connect city water to fill the coach and forgot to turn off the water pump and it seemed to cause this cycling. To get it to stop I usually turn the pump off and connect to city water and run the faucet at full open to clear any air out of the system, seems to work to stop the cycling issue. 
I will take a closer look and see if maybe its leaking at the seal and that is what is actually causing it to cycle.

Anytime mine cycles like that I shut the pump off, open all faucets (sinks, shower, wet bay) and then turn it back on and let it clear the air pockets.

Thanks Brad, that is exactly what my thoughts were. I was too lazy to go inside to open all the inside faucets, I usually just open the faucet in the bay. I will try this method if it happens again.

[hypoxia]

For those with Headhunter Royal Flush toilets, is the plumbing to & from the water pump and to the toilet 3/4" or 1".   On 1482 the toilet piping is 1" PEX but the shutoff valves are 3/4" brass.  I noticed the Headhunter Mach 5 manual calls for 1" (25mm).

[CaptainGizmo]

[edited after Jim's findings regarding pipe size] 

I do know how many water filter systems I've built to help others keep their lines fresh of the slightest junk and minerals from clogging up those sensitive valves/screens.

Thanks for the extra info on the pump rebuild. I had my fairly new pump go bad and start leaking. I was at the last rally and luckily, we got it replaced right then. The guys said they've had a run of those that get bad seals and then end up leaking out of that bottom port. They said the newer models are better designed and have better seals. Let's hope...those suckers are WAY too expensive to replace every few years!!

ONE BIG NOTE FOR ON-GOING, ROUTINE MAINTENANCE: Cycle that pump as OFTEN AS POSSIBLE!! My pump had decided to freeze up, most likely from the lack of use in storage. This does nothing good for seals by just sitting there and not getting exercised and "wet". So, now I make sure I'm giving that thing a wake-up workout every time I visit.

As the saying goes..."use it or lose it...or leaks". LOL

[hypoxia]

Whoa...that's an interesting find! And, TBH, could be the reason so many have issues with the HH toilets!

My mistake, I edited that post.  The water shutoff valve from the tank to the water pump and the toilet water supply shutoff valves are 3/4" brass but the water supply line is 1" (0.875" ID) PEX.  GROK says the short runs in a motorhome are OK with that sizing.  All I know is the toilets do struggle with some flushes.  1482 was originally spec'd with SeaLand 500 Marine Toilets.  In 2018 the mid bath was replaced with the Headhunter Royal Flush.  The rear bath was also changed, I don't have the documentation for that.