[CaptainGizmo]

Whoa...that's an interesting find! And, TBH, could be the reason so many have issues with the HH toilets!

My mistake, I edited that post.  The water shutoff valve from the tank to the water pump and the toilet water supply shutoff valves are 3/4" brass but the water supply line is 1" (0.875" ID) PEX.  GROK says the short runs in a motorhome are OK with that sizing.  All I know is the toilets do struggle with some flushes.  1482 was originally spec'd with SeaLand 500 Marine Toilets.  In 2018 the mid bath was replaced with the Headhunter Royal Flush.  The rear bath was also changed, I don't have the documentation for that.

Ok, sounds good...I'll edit my post to reflect your edits...LOL

FWIW, if your toilets aren't getting enough ooomphf, you may well be having the same issues as my friend with constant plugging of his actuator's screen. For some reason, his was literally growing lime/calcium crystals. Oddest thing...and no one could get rid of them until he went to a filter system.

[hypoxia]

Steve, I haven't had much problem with the screens.  All water that enters the coach is filtered, that may help.  I am puzzled as to why 1" PEX is 7/8".  I haven't worked with it much.

[hypoxia]

In the end, Headhunter said the screen was the problem.  They were correct.  The screen was not overly clogged but that was the problem.  The plumbing did not include a union so the Pex had to be cut out and replaced.  From a Newell maintenance point of view, that may not cost much more than working with a union.  Also, the screen was mounted backwards, not sure what difference that makes.  Motorhomes of Texas was the last one in there.  Newell is absolved.  The flushing difference with a clean screen is amazing.  The screen is #5 in the "adder kit exploded view" at the inlet of the solenoid diaphragm valve.
   

Adder Kit Exploded View.pdf Size: 59.31 KB  Downloads: 4

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In the end, Headhunter said the screen was the problem.  They were correct.  The screen was not overly clogged but that was the problem.  The plumbing did not include a union so the Pex had to be cut out and replaced.  From a Newell maintenance point of view, that may not cost much more than working with a union.  Also, the screen was mounted backwards, not sure what difference that makes.  Motorhomes of Texas was the last one in there.  Newell is absolved.  The flushing difference with a clean screen is amazing.

Glad you hopefully found your problem!

I just reread the thread and I am not seeing the location of this screen? Can you enlighten us where that screen resides? I would assume it’s either on the input or the output of the pump. Is it also worth adding a union for future maintenance? 

Thanks again Jim for your documentation!

[hypoxia]

The screen is inside the inlet to the solenoid valve, #5 in the attached file.  I thought it was missing until I stuck my finger in there & felt it.  I cleaned it & let it sit in white vinegar which dissolved the remaining deposits.  I couldn't find a 90° union so I used a 1" Sharkbite 90° fitting.  I can pop it off the next time the screen needs to be cleaned.  There's no room for a straight inline union.

This was done with the mid-bath.  The rear bath isn't going to be a walk in the park either.

Adder Kit Exploded View.pdf Size: 59.31 KB  Downloads: 3

       

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The screen is inside the inlet to the solenoid valve, #5 in the attached file.  I thought it was missing until I stuck my finger in there & felt it.  I cleaned it & let it sit in white vinegar which dissolved the remaining deposits.  I couldn't find a 90° union so I used a 1" Sharkbite 90° fitting.  I can pop it off the next time the screen needs to be cleaned.  There's no room for a straight inline union.

This was done with the mid-bath.  The rear bath isn't going to be a walk in the park either.

Ahh on the toilet, not the pump!

I have a microphor so I would assume it’s different. Knock on wood my microphor works!

[RobSC]

The screen is inside the inlet to the solenoid valve, #5 in the attached file.  I thought it was missing until I stuck my finger in there & felt it.  I cleaned it & let it sit in white vinegar which dissolved the remaining deposits.  I couldn't find a 90° union so I used a 1" Sharkbite 90° fitting.  I can pop it off the next time the screen needs to be cleaned.  There's no room for a straight inline union.

This was done with the mid-bath.  The rear bath isn't going to be a walk in the park either.

The screen is the problem no doubt.  I dug into this today after reading this thread.  My Headhunter toilets were always a mystery to me why they never really performed as designed.

I tackled the mid bath toilet first. I had easy access to the solenoid located above the Aqua-Hot to cut, remove, clean and install a Sharkbite straight coupling.

       

The rear bath toilet in fact was much harder.  After removing the trim behind the toilet, I had visual but would not be able to cut any lines without moving the toilet away from the wall about six inches.  The drain line removal was pretty easy with the Fernco flex fitting.  The water supply line was tight and took a few choice words to remove.  Also, had to clip the two solenoid wires to remove the solenoid and screen for cleaning.  The screen on this one was worse than the mid bath toilet.

                     

After cleaning the two screens, the difference is night and day.  Both toilets sound like jet engines and performance to match.  Finally, I will be taking Steve's advice and upgrading my filter system for the whole coach.

[hypoxia]

Rob, your rear bath looks about exactly like mine.  I plan to add a Tee for a Bidet line, perhaps Sharkbite Tee with FNPT and a bushing.  I put this Handheld Bidet Sprayer in the mid bath & have been very happy with it.

Good to see your positive end result.  I'm on the fence with more filtering.  I think most deposits are dissolved and don't come out of solution until the water is stationary.  If you had a screen before the pump you wouldn't need any at the toilet valves or faucets otherwise.