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2018 model, #1620 at Newell, porcelain tile flooring throughout,

http://www.newellcoach.com/newell-coaches/coach-1620/

Saw what looked to be about a 1976 36 ft Newell on Rt 17 in Dundee Florida Today.  Where are you staying.  Love to catch up with you and compare notes.  Sounded like a 6V92. Rooster, Kissimmee Fl.  1979 Newell 36, 1988 Newell 40, 2006 Wanderlodge 450 LXi.  05 Liberty Diesel Toad w/M&G Brake

Hello. Does anyone know if there is a direct replacement for the old Duo Therm that does not require modifying the exterior of the coach. One that uses the existing intake or exhaust. Has anyone abandoned the 3 propane heaters for an aqua hot? If so can they go inside the closet where the water heater and one heater is?

Gang,

This is going to be a long, rambly post so let me give you the punchline first....

Check and make sure that you really have filtered water at your filtered water / hot water dispenser.  You can do this by turning off the "filtered water" supply in the water pump bay.  In my case turning off that valve caused my dishwasher to not have water, yet the dispenser still had water.  Oops!

Ok, so here goes the long story.

About a year ago, I had Newell replace my dishwasher.  The old one was getting error codes and since it was 15-ish years old, I figured a new one would fix the codes and would avoid a service call from Fisher and Paykel.  The new dishwasher worked for about 10 minutes and started throwing error codes just like the old one.  The culprit turned out to be carbon grit in the supply line clogging the inlet valve.  I thought...Oh, a water filter broke and put its carbon grit into the supply line.  Oh well.  Newell flushed the line and the new dishwasher started working again.

(fast forward a year)

On my last trip, I noticed that my water pump was turning on and off frequently.  I went to water pump and found a small leak.  A follow guru told me how to take the apparatus above the pump apart and reassemble to fix the leak.  Now, no leak, but the pump is still doing that turn-on, turn-off, turn-on thing.

About that time, I noticed that the dishwasher was showing error codes again.  Inspection of the DW showed that even with the power killed to the DW, it was still trickling water into the tub.  Ugh.  I went to the water bay and turned the control valve labelled "Dishwasher" off.  Water still going into tub.  Hmmmm.  I also happened to check the filtered water dispenser and lo-and-behold no water.   Hmmm again.

I traced the water lines, and found that the water line that exits the filter goes to a "T".  One side of T goes to the refrigerator and the other side goes to the dishwasher.  The filtered water dispenser was fed from the dishwasher valve and DID NOT PROVIDE FILTERED WATER.  JUST WATER DIRECTLY FROM THE TANK.   The filtered water and dishwasher lines were swapped....Probably when the coach was built!!!!!!   Because of the refrigerator connection,  I could not just swap the fittings.  

The way that I fixed the situation was to cut the PEX going to dishwasher after the T and also cut the line going to the filtered water dispenser and use Sharkbite couplers to swap the lines.  The Sharkbite couplers are just push-on and do not require any crimping tool.

Now the filtered water valve feeds the filtered water dispenser and the dishwasher valve feeds the dishwasher.

Lessons learned...
1.  I have stayed away from turning the water valves thinking I would cause a leak.  This is false reasoning.  Those valves are there for a reason and if they leak, they should be replaced.  If you do nothing else....double check your filtered water to be sure that it is truly filtered.
2.  If you ever find carbon grit in your water line, you might think about how it got there.  (I didn't)
3.  The water trickling into the dishwasher was caused by more grit.  It turns out that the dishwasher is actually kinda easy to work on.  (I posted the manual).  Removing the inlet valve and cleaning resolved the issue.
4.  If your water pump is cycling and you cannot find obvious water leak, double check your dishwasher.  
5.  The PEX tubing in our coaches is easy to repair using Sharkbite fittings.

Here is a troubleshooting guide for FP dishwasher.

II just finished installing the lift . It works great ! Heading south for 3 wiz next month gonna give it a try !

On my coach (653), I have always had problems with leaks on the big (number 1) slide behind drivers seat.  The leaks have caused constant bearing problems.  Newell improved the bearing situation a lot by installing stainless steel bearings a couple of years ago.  That fixed the bearing problem, but the leaks remained.

After an exhaustive inspection of the slide I can report a number of sources of leaks....and as a bonus one potential non-obvious fix.

Leak 0.  I suspected that the lateral seams on the roof may have been leaking.  Silicone and Eternabond tape is your friend.  I have never proven that these seams leak, but it makes me feel better to have addressed any potential problem.

Leak 1.  Creases in slide seal corners.  On my vintage coach (2003) the corners of the slides are too sharp which means that the slide seal cannot "make the corner" and will cause a crease in the seal.  Look at the corners of the seals...if you can see light under the crease, run a bead of silicone and form it into a elongated pyramid in the same spot as the crease.  Be sure to do the same with slide in AND out.

Leak 2.  Crack in skin attachment.  The slide is built in the shape of a box with one side open (duh!).  The outside skin is glued onto the box.  The seam where the outside skin attaches to the box is a source of water intrusion.  Get on a ladder and look (CLOSELY!) at the top seam.  I looked several times but did not see the crack until I pushed hard against the skin.  See other threads about repairing this problem, but the short version is to dig out the old sealant and replace with something like Sikaflex.

Leak 3.  Wire penetration.  I only found this one after the room was completely disassembled.  The wire that feeds the awning penetrated the skin right behind the awning and was not properly sealed.  It had probably been leaking since the coach was built.  Best fix was to shoot silicone into the hole from the inside.  To see if you have the problem without a lot of work you can remove the "phantom wall" from around the window and tap on the wall with the butt of a screwdriver.  If it sounds "dull" it might be worth some additional investigation.

Leak 4.  Slide sag.  This is the bonus leak and fix and only affects large slides.  On really long slides, the center of the slide sags slightly in the middle.  This means that the slide seal is not snug against the slide and will allow water to penetrate on the top edge of slide.  If you look behind the valance, you can see a long metal bar with a "hook" in the middle of the bar.  The hook is pointed toward the outside and its purpose is to gently lift up the middle of the slide when the slide is extended.  (it hits a frame member just as the slide hits full extension and forces the middle of the slide up maybe 1/4 - 3/8".    

On my coach, and a few others that I heard of, the attachment of the bar can become loose and as a result the bar does not pull up with enough force to lift the middle of the slide.  (The screws that hold the bar to the framing of the slide are probably undersized).  Before the fix, you could easily move the bar a fraction of an inch.  

FIX:  Newell carefully re-drilled the bar an then placed some beefy anchors into the slide frame and then re-attached the bar to the frame using the new holes & anchors.  After the fix, you cannot move the bar --- AT ALL.  I have been through a water test and a rain storm and no more water.  

So...do you have the problem?  If you don't have a long slide...you don't have the problem.  If you never had had water in the coach, then you probably don't have the problem.  If you get water in the coach when it rains really hard, then you MAY have the problem.  The only way to know for certain is to run the room out while watching the bar interface to the outside coach framing.  If the bar engages, and slightly lifts the middle of the room then you don't have the problem.  But if you see the bar move instead of the slide framing, then you probably will want to do something similar to what Newell did to my coach.

If this job is too big for you to do, check with Newell. They don't work for free, but you will get the satisfaction of knowing that these guys have been there - done that.

All,
Looked and test drove Coach 1242 last week. This is the first 07/08 model that I have seen with the above engine transmission combination. I was under the impression that Newell went with ZF transmission paired with the CAT 625 because of the torque was too high for the Allison transmission. Any issues pairing the CAT 625 engine with the Allison transmission? The Allison provided smooth shifting as compared to the ZF transmission. Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

Reese

All,
Any Newell Gurus in the Tulsa, OK. area. Thanks

Reese

Many of us who have been around Newell for a while remember Boyd Vanover. Boyd started in 1973 working for Mr. Newell in the cabinet shop. He moved the engineering position and retired after 40 years with Newell as Vice-President of Engineering.

Karl and Alice Blade just announced the death of Boyd. There will be a Celebration of Life Service on Thursday, February 16 from 6-8 pm at the Paul Thomas Funeral Home in Miami, OK.

Boyd was a knowledgeable, helpful man. I will miss him.