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attached is the parts breakdown for the curved shower enclosure that some of us have.  

the parts are very very expensive.  

newell also sells a CNC homemade lexan locking piece that you hang over the door to lock it so it wont move while driving.  i will take some pictures and post when i can.  15 dollars each.

tom

hi,

i thought i would share my recent experience with a DDEC4 error code. a few months ago i started getting PID103. Turbo Boost Circuit Voltage Low error code on my Prodriver and if i had my VMSPc hooked up it was there too.

it would sometimes go out after a restart and other times not. it also gave a yellow check engine light on my coach.

the first time i drove it with the error active i got about a mile and the stop engine light came on and the engine de-rated. i pulled over and restarted the engine and it cleared up and didnt come back that short trip.

this intermittant nature continued. i bought a turbo boost sensor and replaced it as it is very easy to get at and change. no improvement.

the one i bought was for 15 bucks used on ebay. so my bus shop said to try a new one. 65 bucks and no change.

i drove it to my bus shop and of course once i got there it didnt do it even though it did it all the way there. they could see the code in the DDEC with their scanner.

they checked the wiring as that is the most common problem for this code. it was all fine. the DDEC4 ECU is just a foot below the sensor so the wiring harness is all just right there.

so, my bus shop had the local detroit shop put it on a dyno and they could not duplicate it at all.

that was the day before our big trip we just returned from.

so, the first 1200 miles, no problem. we were at newell in miami and they were all leaving for the day and they were just finishing pressure washing my radiator and they did the engine too. as soon as i started it, the same code came up. aha, it must be related to being wet...

so i drove with the code on all the way to central diesel repair in springfiled MO, getting there about 830pm on the 3rd of july. they got me in right away and a very very experience detroit mechanic got going. he first thing took the DDEC4 unit off of the engine. as he did, a bolt fell from behind the unit that was wedged between it and the block. it was not part of the mounting for the DDEC. the DDEC is electrically isloated from the block with rubber grommetts.

the back of the DDEC has started to wear from the vibration of the bolt, but thankfully not all the way through.

as soon as he took it off completely, we looked at the pins. he said that was the only way to reallyget a good look at all the pins. sure enough, on the plug that the turbo boost sensor comes in on, there was a bent pin. it was an unused pin, but it was sideways and wouldnt allow the plug to fully seat on the DDEC so that had to be an issue. and why likely when there was water something happened. the ground short caused by the random bolt could have caused something as well.

there was also a mod done on the DDEC4/series sixty that added a barometric pressure sensor directly inline with the turbo boost sensor. David Brady had told me about it before and that he had had issues after the mod was done. so we also took that out by just unplugging it. it is still there and i can plug it back in if i need too.

all i know is that in two hours, they did all that and put it back together and in many many starts and stops and rain and about 3000 miles of driving, no issue with the turbo boost code now.

lesson learned is to closely examine the pins on the DDEC unit if you are having any issues.

tom

I am not sure where to put slide specific questions but here goes....

On my 2003, I have slides made by Valid, corp. They are powered by electric motors vs. the HWW slides powered by hydraulics. (This is really not the point of the question...)

In previous discussions there has been talk about locking pins and rattles associated with the pins. I am wondering...Is this true of Valid slides as well? I have had trouble finding rattles right behind the driver. I have two different noises. One is a loud springy sound kinda like a coil of steel. (think this is the curtain and was much improved by adjusting the curtain tension). The other is more of a clunk noise. I wonder if this is play in the bearings or the locking mechanism.

Any ideas?

Cheers,
bill

                When Tom was at the farm one of our tasks was to adjust his toilets, so I thought I'd share the "how to" with every one. Maybe Michael Day can be more specific, but I believe these toilets have been in use since the '90s and are still used to my knowledge. My toilets are model LF-210, although I'm sure that model numbers may have changed over the years. Within the LF-210 there are two styles: a down discharge and a rear discharge. I have one of each and from an owners perspective they function identically.

How the toilets function is interesting and many times misunderstood. When you actuate the flush valve, the flapper opens and the waste flows into a holding area called a hopper as fresh water flows. Many believe it is flushed into the black tank immediately. The flapper closes and fresh water continues to flow into the bowl for use on the next flush. AFTER the flapper has closed compressed air enters the hopper, pushing the waste into the black tank.

There are two adjustments that an owner needs to be aware of. The first is the flap opening and the second is the bowl water level.

The flap opening should be between 5 to 7 seconds. This is important to ensure that enough water is let into the hopper to complete the flush cycle(signage on the bottom of my toilet tank cover indicates 4-6 seconds, but the owners' manual says 5-7). Flapper timing is adjusted by turning a hex nut located under the toilet cover. Clockwise increases the time the flap is open & ccw shortens the time the flap is open. A small adjustment makes big changes.

The water level should be adjusted so the water just covers the flap. If the water is too high you need to go to your valve in the water bay and reduce the water by partially closing the valve for the toilet until the water fills to the proper height.

One other maintenance issue of note is to lubricate the air water sequence valve. The manual suggests this is done every year for heavy use, 2-3 years for medium use and every 5 years for light use. The procedure is explained in the owner's manual.

Hope this info is helpful...........................

I have three 50 amp receptacles and water and am in the process of installing sewer next to my barn/shop. I have one sewer drop tho. Lots of tools, shop air, 25 ton jack and 4 25 ton jackstands. Let's tinker!

Monroe was the birthplace of Delta Airline and the home of General Claire Chennault of the Flying Tigers. We have an aviation museum named in his honor. Coca Cola was first bottled by the Joseph Biedenharn family and we also have a Coca Cola museum. We have a beautiful navigable river, the Ouachita (Wash-sha-taw) with sand beaches.
Thanks,

Saw these two Newells the same day along the coast near Ventura, CA in September of 2010. The owners of the 1980 gave us a tour of their interior. They were from Las Vegas enjoying a week on the beach.

The Blue Newell we spotted while at the Escapee Park outside Temecula having our solar panels installed. The guy who owned it was from Texas.

I have a large limestone parking area in front of my barn with 50amp and water. If you're passing through the area contact me.
I'm about an hour from both New Orleans and Baton Rouge.

I think that I could become mildly addicted to this site -- if I have the time!! So many things to do -- so little time. As Forest suggested, this will be a great place for all of us to talk about vacuum cleaners, etc. NOT!! No talk about hiding mens' credit cards either, but talk about how every time they get a new toy (tool, or whatever) that we get a new toy (vacuum cleaner, or whatever)! Not really, but you get the idea. Looking forward to chatting with all of you!

I'll continue a thread that I started on the other site. We are now in Raymond, WA, 27 miles south of Aberdeen, at Raymond RV Park smack dab on the shores of the Willapa River for $20/night full hookups.....had to drop my trailer because site #1 was taken......we were here 2.5 years ago in that site, and that site is the longest. No problem, though...we will be here parts of 3 days, so a minor issue having to drop the trailer.

Was doing a walk around the coach and trailer yesterday before we stopped for the day and noticed the right rear tire on my trailer had a very bad wear pattern which usually means the tread is separating, and it was! So glad I caught it before it blew. Was able to get it replaced with a like kind and quality tire (10 ply, load range E) at West End Motors for $123. The other three look great with no signs of separation, and the tread is good for another 8,000 miles at least.

Same thing happened on a bike ride in Port Townsend 10 days ago.....Elaine was in a bookstore looking at used books, and I was looking over the tandem and noticed that there was a bad spot on the rear tire where we had worn down through the cords a few more miles and we would have flated.....we were right next door to a bike store that had the right tire! Mr. Murphy is trying hard to get me, but I'm wise to his schemes.

Was able to steam clean my radiator at my friend's home in Coupeville, WA. He has a commercial pressure washer with heater (up to 250*). Dropped my operating temp 5 degrees!

There is a nice Prevost in the park three spaces over.....looks to be a late model. Several other big rigs here.

Well, it's happy hour and Elaine is beckoning me outside to watch the sun go down.

I find the AquaHot to be one of the best systems on my coach. To keep the system working properly annual service is recommended. I use these instructions that are authored by Roger Berke and have had no problems. Roger is also a good source of parts. It is a DIY job that can save you a chunk of change.

Hope this is helpful..................