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Camping at Newell Factory
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Hello Everyone!
Next Friday (11/17/2023) I am going to be taking a trip from my home base in New York to Santa Fe, NM. Outbound is mainly Rt. 44/80W. I haven't completely planned out the return trip, but was looking to maybe go on a more Southerly route. Perhaps through Dallas, Arkansas, Tennessee, etc and up inland of the East coast. I am a bit flexible.
As many of you know, I am not retired (yet!) and so do not have unlimited time, but this trip I have a few extra days.
Why am I telling you all this in the Air leak section of the Forum?
Recently, I visited the factory for a bunch of repairs. One of the most important ones was fixing the many air leaks I had. Run time for my 120V compressor was about 50 minutes. After the factory visit, my run time is now every 17 minutes.
The leak is affecting the Primary and secondary brake tanks as well as the supply (at the same rate at this point) and is much worse when it's cold out.
I am wondering if anyone knows of any really knowledgeable service companies or folks along my return route that would be in a position to help me get it squared away? And perhaps teach me a bit more about the system in general?
Many, MANY thanks,
I just replaced my drier because it had a few issues (leaky seal, and sometimes sticking blow-off system) from age....it was original.
The unit that I had and purchased was a WABCO 1200 to make installation easy. The new unit seems to blow off much more air than my old one. I am guessing that the old unit was semi-plugged.
The amount of dust that blew off of my driveway was insane! It got me thinking of making some sort of deflector as I do stop in dirty/sandy areas often.
I happened upon a website of a guy who makes them (theairdeflector.com). Seems like an easy item that will help with reducing the dust bowl when pressure blow off happens.
‘07 Newell, #808. Outside air temp gauge lost a couple of digits so I am trying to replace it. Received a new Intellitronix model M9123 from Newell. Of course the wires are not the same colors as the older unit and apparently the newer unit requires a 12V power source on the outside air thermocouple. Has anyone else replaced this and can you give me any advice? For the life of me I don’t know why the temperature sensor would require 12V but the Intellitronix assures me that is the case. When the gauge is hooked to power it shows 375, and while it’s warm here in south FL, I’m reasonably certain it isn’t that hot!
I know there was an earlier thread on a similar subject for an older coach but it didn’t provide any help. Any and all thoughts appreciated.
Thanks,
Terry
I took my coach to CDI RV paint in Forest City Iowa last month. We will be picking it up on the 22nd and driving back to AZ. Might stop in southwest MO to look at some land but that is up in the air still.
Total cost was 16k and they are doing a phenomenal job based on the pics I have been sent. Marie and I are super excited. New awnings are being made locally by Chester who is also a Newell owner. I am very grateful for his patience with my project.
the last pic I received yesterday as a teaser and I told them not to send more so I can be surprised at the end. They will cut and buff the coach. Super excited!
Here are a few pics.
We had some brain storming here when we had the no rally rally about replacement compressors for the dometic split units, if our experiment works people who have these old units will have state of the art inverter compressor heat pumps. Seems to be a lot of interest so we shall proceed. I have a spare inverter compressor heat pump at home to experiment with.
I have a 1983 38footer and it has an Emerson 120V aux air compressor. I am looking for info or manual to see if i can get this unit working..thanks
So I have been having issues with my air leveling acting wonky. Typical issue would be it airing up with a list to the passenger side. I messed around at the rear six pack and proved by manually overriding the solenoids that the system was working fine from the air solenoid onward. Richard had lead me to where the control box would be found in another thread.
I Today I finally opened up the HWH control box below the driver seat in the outside compartment. I was checking things with my power probe and generally examining looking for anything out of place. I put my power probe on one of the fuses and notice it started clicking and all I was doing was touching it.
Upon closer inspection this is what I found:
As you can see the fuse was not correctly seated in the fuse holder, I found 2 of the solenoid fuses like this.
After putting these fuses back into the holders, seems that the system is now operating correctly. I will need to do some more testing but I did hit the raise button and it raised the entire coach up, before it would just raise the left side.
Here is a photo of my HWH control box
Here is the box layout drawing on the back of the cover
Showing where I found the box
This is a long shot, but figured it does not hurt to ask. Just bought a '20 Grand Cherokee to tow and was aware before I purchased it that from '18-'21 you can very easily get a death wobble because of the electronic power steering. The fix per se is an upgraded wiring harness that keeps power to the steering only while towing so that it can moderate why hydraulic does naturally. Question number one is are there any members here who successfully had that upgraded harness installed and where did you have it done? Oddly enough if you called 10 Jeep dealers and asked to talk to the service manager at least 9 of them would say they have no clue what you're talking about and even if they do know they most likely don't have a tech that truly understands how it works as the instructions from Jeep SUCK and are not correct. Harness still works as it should IF it's installed properly, but it's not for just something a run of the mill tech can handle. Thought I had this all figured out as Jon Wehrenberg over at Prevost Community went through the gauntlet with his '21 and ended up working with senior management at Jeep before it was all over and along with an amazing mechanic it works to perfection along with a little custom coding required as Jeep botched that as well with the new harness and how it interacted with the steering right after disconnecting from coach. My best laid plans may have went to crap as I planned to use his tech and dealer, but lo and behold that tech got a better job with the county. Still might be a work around with him, but I'm looking for other options just in case.
Second question is does anyone have a preferred battery charger that is smart for the of a better term as the steering system uses quite a bit of juice and will drain the battery in short order. Need something that will not overcharge the Jeep battery. I believe Jon used something from Victron, but it was I believe 24V because of the Prevost. Hopefully that a all made sense.
When I rebuilt the six pack all of the wires were just kind of hanging from the rear wall. I would like to tidy up that area. I would like to see some pics of neatly arranged wiring if anybody has one to share!!
Thank you.