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Experiences with Newell S...
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allison ht741 wont go int...
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Vintage newell coach
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Generator slide stuck clo...
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Lets talk windshields
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Sub-Zero 700TC/I-3 Part N...
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Vintage newell coach
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1969 Newell Coach Windshi...
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8V92 Hybrid over heating ...
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Newell Meetup at COTA
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So we will update in a few days on the great shakedown of coach 480. All went very well. Right side windshield wiper stopped working. Seems like linkage issue as I can move it freely from the outside. After looking it seems I can access the assembly from in front of the dash on the inside. Has anyone tackled this yet ?
Hi all,
I'm looking for a very specific Newell coach: a 1996 38' Newell sold at one point in Zanesville OH. I'd like to discuss purchasing it from whomever currently owns it. A picture is attached to this post.
Alternatively, If anyone knows of another Newell less than 40' in length with a Detroit Series 60 engine, please let me know!
Currently own a 45' Prevost H345, and looking to downsize.
Thank you!
I am looking for some photos of a late 90's Newell with a Series 60 and the heavy duty tow hitch, from what I have read could be 14k rating?
My #490 has the lightweight hitch for just towing a toad, I would like to tow a trailer so I would like to get the hitch upgraded to a higher capacity. I will get a fabricator to make the hitch for me, I just need to know what the factory hitch looked like.
The other thought was if Newell also reinforced the frame at the rear of the coach for the heavier hitch, maybe some photos of the frame as it comes out around the engine may help me determine if they made any changes. Mine appears to be two different size C channels nested into one another. I will get some photos of mine and post here.
Appreciate any help on this.
Headed west on I-10 around Beaumont as we were heading east yesterday morning… beautiful rig with matching trailer
Hello Gurus,
As I continually crawl around the bays of my 1995 Coach # 385 I find more and more things I do not have manuals for, or have questions about. I was in the water bay checking out the 2 12 volt pumps, shut offs and discovered 2 water filters. One was a "sanitizing filter" with what look like a timer on top and a drain thru the bottom of the coach, and the other is a sediment style filter which I found out later searching thru threads on this wonderful site. At this time I see no other filters like is mentioned in other threads like everpure or THM. I have ice, and instahot that I would like to rely on.
Does anyone have the manual for the white canister filter and /or know the procedure for sanitizing it?
Is there a better system that can be added, if it really needs to be?
I see external portable systems used, are these worth it, since the water is still going into your tank? Are you constantly fighting/sanitizing your system.
All help is appreciated. Lets hope the filter was changed more recently.
Jim - #623 (2002)
Was having first routine oil change (on our pad in Indio) after purchasing coach about 2 years ago. The tech had emptied the old oil and was checking the pan plug and saw a metal particle (very small) on the magnetic end of the plug. When he further checked with his finger in the plug hole he discovered (after getting them out) a number of copper "beads" and "chips" up to 1/4" in size. Not being a diesel savvy person; but aware of the construction of an engine, I agreed with the tech that we may well have a catastrophic issue of a bearing or bushing failure.
I am pursuing getting the unit towed (via flat bed) to their facility to drop the pan and see the actual debris in the pan and the condition of the crank, bearings, etc. to access the issues. This seems like a very unusual circumstance for an engine with only 80k miles; but; it is 22 years old.
Any comments, cautions, advises are appreciated and also; shop suggestions in the Indio / Inland Valley area for accomplished a successful repair.
TY, jim
So I'm having an issue with the windshield(s) unsealing themselves. I think.
So I had the left window replaced and at that time they replaced the gasket for both windows. They had a hard time getting them both set correctly. I
On my last travel day, after returning to the highway I was assaulted with the most horrendous whistling noise coming from the windows near as I can tell.
When I pulled off the highway onto a dirt parking lot the drop off the pavement was about 3 inches. I was traveling about 15 mph and slowing rapidly when the from right hit the dirt. I parked for lunch and then returned to the highway.
I have been fighting a right side HCV that likes to go FULL UP so I stop and lower that side and then raise it to normal height via the travel button on the HWH. It might last a day or an hour but always comes back. It is on the list to be replaced soon.
So are these coaches known to have windshields to pop loose? What is a solution?
We have a 2011 with the Carefree of Colorado Paramount main awnings. I'm looking to see if anyone might have a circuit board they don't need? We had our back awning board go bad. Discontinued part and Newell doesn't have any in the parts closet. Second option is if anyone might know of a company that repairs circuit boards?
Last winter I had an issue where I lost power to my HWH leveling. I eventually figured out what at the time I thought was a bad relay as once I traced it down and replaced the relay all was working "well" again. During this fix I realized that when said relay is bad I not only don't have power to HWH I don't have a horn or a backup camera and a few other things. It was actually super handy as when the camera was out you knew you had a problem. So on our last trip I noticed that over a few REALLY bad potholes I would temporarily lose connection and then it would come back. It also seemed like my backup cam picture was not as crisp and had a few lines from time to time. So the other day after finally getting my well pump switch problem solved I decided to take a deeper dive and what I found was a bit disturbing.
I quickly found out that touching said relay or worse yet touching the circled orange wire would cause me to lose connection AND the orange wire got so hot you could not hold it. Pulled the relay and from the picture you can see how discolored the male spade was from heat. Then learned from chatting with Richard and Bill that resistance equals heat and I most likely had a bad connection inside of that pesky little block...well pesky at that time. First challenge was I had no clue how to get the female side of the connection out of the block. After needing Bill to google how to remove the females from the block for me I found out that block is called some variation of a 5 pin relay socket and more specifically mine is made by Hella. Actually part of the way through removal wire came all the way out of the connector so it must have been hanging on by a thread. Plastic around wire had turned black from heat as well.
Pulled the blocks apart to get easier access to the one that needed attention and thanks to the YouTube video they quickly came out but now the question was where on earth do you find a female non-insulated terminal with the tab to retain it inside the block? I can tell you it's not Home Depot, O'Reilly or Autozone. In the end it was Amazon for the win as they had what I thought I needed. Was so much easier to find once I knew I was looking for that Hella relay socket as well since the old one had melted quite a bit and I figured who knew what melted inside as well.
Was also SUPER thankful that a splurged a few weeks ago for a proper set of crimpers with multiple dies from Wirefy thanks to a member here. A newbie like me had no actual clue that you needed a different crimper for different connectors. The non-insulated were a bit of a chore even with the nice crimpers due to limited space down there and the super short wires.
Learned a lot and once back together it's functioning as intended with no wires so hot you can't hold them. Put a smattering of pictures and links below for what I needed in case someone else has this problem in the future so you can fix it in about 10 minutes. I can't divulge the amount of time I invested. 
https://youtu.be/pELf2s0xPAs?si=CmcnRKSxWcXg9tYX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092MRZ5JK?ref...tails&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VUEDYI?psc...ct_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPZ2T2C?psc...ct_details
431XE/12 the standard Aquahot for many years.
New everything in burner. Was working fine. Just removed burner Everything is got rust on it and the aluminum housing is showing white corrosion. Of course, AH will not stay lit.
What would cause all of this rust and corrosion and how to stop it??
Of course I have an extended trip coming up in early November.
I HATE Murphy!

