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‘07 Newell, #808. Outside air temp gauge lost a couple of digits so I am trying to replace it.  Received a new Intellitronix model M9123 from Newell.  Of course the wires are not the same colors as the older unit and apparently the newer unit requires a 12V power source on the outside air thermocouple.  Has anyone else replaced this and can you give me any advice?  For the life of me I don’t know why the temperature sensor would require 12V but the Intellitronix assures me that is the case. When the gauge is hooked to power it shows 375, and while it’s warm here in south FL, I’m reasonably certain it isn’t that hot!

I know there was an earlier thread on a similar subject for an older coach but it didn’t provide any help. Any and all thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,
Terry

I took my coach to CDI RV paint in Forest City Iowa last month. We will be picking it up on the 22nd and driving back to AZ. Might stop in southwest MO to look at some land but that is up in the air still.
Total cost was 16k and they are doing a phenomenal job based on the pics I have been sent. Marie and I are super excited. New awnings are being made locally by Chester who is also a Newell owner. I am very grateful for his patience with my project.
the last pic I received yesterday as a teaser and I told them not to send more so I can be surprised at the end. They will cut and buff the coach. Super excited!
Here are a few pics.

We had some brain storming here when we had the no rally rally about replacement compressors for the dometic split units, if our experiment works people who have these old units will have state of the art inverter compressor heat pumps. Seems to be a lot of interest so we shall proceed. I have a spare inverter compressor heat pump at home to experiment with.

I have a 1983 38footer and it has an Emerson 120V aux air compressor.  I am looking for info or manual to see if i can get this unit working..thanks

So I have been having issues with my air leveling acting wonky. Typical issue would be it airing up with a list to the passenger side. I messed around at the rear six pack and proved by manually overriding the solenoids that the system was working fine from the air solenoid onward. Richard had lead me to where the control box would be found in another thread. 
I Today I finally opened up the HWH control box below the driver seat in the outside compartment. I was checking things with my power probe and generally examining looking for anything out of place. I put my power probe on one of the fuses and notice it started clicking and all I was doing was touching it. 

Upon closer inspection this is what I found:

   
   
As you can see the fuse was not correctly seated in the fuse holder, I found 2 of the solenoid fuses like this. 

After putting these fuses back into the holders, seems that the system is now operating correctly. I will need to do some more testing but I did hit the raise button and it raised the entire coach up, before it would just raise the left side. 

Here is a photo of my HWH control box
   

Here is the box layout drawing on the back of the cover
   

Showing where I found the box
   

This is a long shot, but figured it does not hurt to ask.  Just bought a '20 Grand Cherokee  to tow and was aware before I purchased it that from '18-'21 you can very easily get a death wobble because of the electronic power steering.  The fix per se is an upgraded wiring harness that keeps power to the steering only while towing so that it can moderate why hydraulic does naturally.  Question number one is are there any members here who successfully had that upgraded harness installed and where did you have it done?  Oddly enough if you called 10 Jeep dealers and asked to talk to the service manager at least 9 of them would say they have no clue what you're talking about and even if they do know they most likely don't have a tech that truly understands how it works as the instructions from Jeep SUCK and are not correct.  Harness still works as it should IF it's installed properly, but it's not for just something a run of the mill tech can handle.  Thought I had this all figured out as Jon Wehrenberg over at Prevost Community went through the gauntlet with his '21 and ended up working with senior management at Jeep before it was all over and along with an amazing mechanic it works to perfection along with a little custom coding required as Jeep botched that as well with the new harness and how it interacted with the steering right after disconnecting from coach.  My best laid plans may have went to crap as I planned to use his tech and dealer, but lo and behold that tech got a better job with the county.  Still might be a work around with him, but I'm looking for other options just in case.

Second question is does anyone have a preferred battery charger that is smart for the of a better term as the steering system uses quite a bit of juice and will drain the battery in short order.  Need something that will not overcharge the Jeep battery.  I believe Jon used something from Victron, but it was I believe 24V because of the Prevost.  Hopefully that a all made sense.

When I rebuilt the six pack all of the wires were just kind of hanging from the rear wall. I would like to tidy up that area. I would like to see some pics of neatly arranged wiring if anybody has one to share!!
Thank you.

https://youtu.be/24f-akTufSs?si=5-23wLB7yOqJFlBV

I have long been concerned about the short cycling of the front unit on our coach. The unit would run for some period, then turn off. But if the sun were shining on the front of the coach or the passenger side, it would come back on in as short as 30 seconds after shutting off. 

This is very very hard on the compressor since there is not a pressure bleed mechanism in the unit.

I isolated the problem to the thermostat. The temp actually changes that quickly as soon as the unit stops. The tstat SHOULD have a delay on restart built in, but it doesn’t. The Coleman Mach replacement does not have a delay built in. 

I tried insulating the tstat, insulating the tstat temp sensor, leaving the fans on all the time. Nothing I tried really helped. If this were a 24VAC circuit then delay on restart timers are plentiful, but nothing I could find for 12VDC. I cobbled up an adjustable timer with 4 channel relays, but it did not have the program features I wanted, but it worked better than nothing. 

Then I stumbled onto this little 12V timer. https://timers.shop/Multi-Functional-3V-..._p_77.html. There are versions that have internal 10 amp relays also. 

Perfect ! It takes 4 of them, and you have to program it. You can buy the computer adaptor to program, or spend a little more for the WI-FI programmable version. This device is inserted between the thermostat and the basement unit. 

I used Program 36. The 36 program will not delay the first time the unit comes on, but will delay on subsequent restarts. I used 5 minutes as the delay time. EDIT: If you do this, let me know, and I will send the CONFIG file with the program and other setpoints to save you time.

It is FAR easier to program than the Chinese derived instructions you get with the typical relay board. This timer is made in USA and instructions and videos were done by native English speakers. 

I wired it to enable one more feature. I wired an on off switch to the timers. That way, I can turn off the AC units without turning off the Tstat. The Tstat retains it’s setpoints. I turn off the AC to shut down the generator. Rhonda turns the switch back on when she sees the shore power light. It’s minor improvement but it is sweet when you do as many campgrounds per year as we do. The ACs come back on immediately at the setpoint we left in the Tstat. 

I post this because this is an incredibly versatile timer relay for 12VDC use. We have a number of electronic gurus on here that “improve” 12V features on the coach. 

I have no interest in this outfit but it is a really neat product. For the electronics guys it has two built in features that make it way easier than building your own. One, it has built in pull down and pull up resistors to make the trigger inputs behave consistently. Two, it has a built in diode to prevent the circuit you are turning on from spiking the voltage when the circuit turns off. This is a real problem in controlling the basement unit since the tstat is turning relays on the circuit board on and off.

Yeah I know, install mini splits and this problem goes away. I am not ready to go down that path yet.

Sorry all,

Oracle (our server provider) did some updates that inadvertently maxed out our CPU and RAM causing a sporadic outage over the last day or two.  

Then... I attempted to update our country blocks and made it block everyone.  Everything should be fixed now.  We currently allow connections from North America, Portugal, and France.  Countries are being added as requested, but everything else is blocked to fight fake accounts.