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Hello, 

I have the older PressurePro TPMS system (original one most likely), but unfortunately I have no manual for it and nothing on PressurePro's website.  Any chance anyone has a copy?  I need to reprogram the system and get a couple of new sensors to include my toad.

Thank you!

Can anyone confirm if these DRL arrays are in two strips of 6 LEDs? ?.

HELLA makes them in 5, 6, and 7 light strips.

   

I am going to attempt this post in segments, listing the reader’s digest summary first. Not everyone wan’t to read about my follies. 

Segment 1:

I had feared working on the suspension parts in the front end because four years of searching and calling had not produced even one person who could identify a source of new parts. However, it was obvious I had several failed bushings. Again I launched into an intense search for parts. I have found documentation that listed DANA part numbers, but no source. Even DANA in England where the parts were made was at a loss. Their answer, I am sorry the plant closed in 2001, and has since been razed. Lovely. 

Our guru buddy, Bill Johnson, rescued my behind. He had a photo of the bushing, no dimensions, and used Google Lens to search for the part. He found an EXACT substitute. 

Voila, this is the part. https://www.finditparts.com/products/968...rce=webapp

I confirmed that is an exact dimensional replacement. I also measured the Durometer of the rubber, and it is the same as the original. 70a.

Wishing all the Gurus a blessed Thanksgiving!!!!!

2008 Newell entry door will not open with button, only opens and closes with the air release mechanisms. Any suggestions?

The Bode door has Strip Brush covering the openings which the door arms pass through to keep bugs out.  Mine was worn out so Newell gave me some to replace it.  Six months later and the new strip brush filament is also bent over leaving a gap a humming bird could pass through.  Has anyone come up with a solution other than keeping the door closed?  We have a screen door but it just funnels the bugs to the gap in the strip brush.    

Does anyone know where the Jake brake module would be installed on a '93 with DDECII? I found the coolant module at the rear of the coach behind the termination box. (Had to remove the top stainless steel cover to access) My jakes do not work and I need to do some volt testing starting at the module. Switch gets power at the armrest.

Currently I have 6 x AGM 8D Batteries for the house side.  I am an all electric coach and do not plan on Boondocking for long periods of time.  The inverter runs the kitchen outlets, mainly the newish AC fridge over night and maybe a coffee pot in the morning.  No heavy loads, no AC's.  I do have solar which can help charge the batteries during the day if not plugged in.  Initially we plan to go to sites with full hookups, so the solar is nice, but not a factor for the next set of batteries or a conversion to a high end lithium system.
The current batteries are "starting batteries" 1450 cca and 480rc and 245 ah @ 20hr.  Currently only 4 batteries are connected as 2 of the batteries are sucked in and most likely shorted internally.  I currently store the rig inside, hooked to 30 amp 240volt.

My question is, Do these batteries need to be "Starting batteries" High amp, short draw period?  Should they be Deep Cycle Batteries, low amp, long draw period?

Do I really need 6 Batteries?  Could 3 be enough with a good quality deep cycle battery?

These agm batteries (O'Rielly) are only 3 years old, maybe I should just put in sealed lead acid batteries.  Seems about the same life expectancy at half the price.

The Guru's Expertise is greatly appreciated!!

Hello Everyone!
    Next Friday (11/17/2023) I am going to be taking a trip from my home base in New York to Santa Fe, NM. Outbound is mainly Rt. 44/80W. I haven't completely planned out the return trip, but was looking to maybe go on a more Southerly route. Perhaps through Dallas, Arkansas, Tennessee, etc and up inland of the East coast. I am a bit flexible.

As many of you know, I am not retired (yet!) and so do not have unlimited time, but this trip I have a few extra days.

Why am I telling you all this in the Air leak section of the Forum?

Recently, I visited the factory for a bunch of repairs. One of the most important ones was fixing the many air leaks I had. Run time for my 120V compressor was about 50 minutes. After the factory visit, my run time is now every 17 minutes.

The leak is affecting the Primary and secondary brake tanks as well as the supply (at the same rate at this point) and is much worse when it's cold out.

I am wondering if anyone knows of any really knowledgeable service companies or folks along my return route that would be in a position to help me get it squared away? And perhaps teach me a bit more about the system in general?

Many, MANY thanks,

I just replaced my drier because it had a few issues (leaky seal, and sometimes sticking blow-off system) from age....it was original.

The unit that I had and purchased was a WABCO 1200 to make installation easy.  The new unit seems to blow off much more air than my old one.  I am guessing that the old unit was semi-plugged.  

The amount of dust that blew off of my driveway was insane! It got me thinking of making some sort of deflector as I do stop in dirty/sandy areas often.  

I happened upon a website of a guy who makes them (theairdeflector.com).  Seems like an easy item that will help with reducing the dust bowl when pressure blow off happens.