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My 110V air pump started running every 12 minutes so I knew I had a substantial air leak.

My air system has three air systems--the brake system, supply system and 12V system.  The brake system holds constant pressure and is monitored on the dash gauge.  The supply system & 12V system are joined together when the air pressure is above 60 psi.  Once the supply air system drops below 60 psi a 60 psi check valve closes and the 12V air system is isolated from the main supply air system.  REMEMBER:  NO TWO NEWELLS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME, SO YOURS MAY BE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT.  The concept and methods of how to find air leaks though is the same.  Several years ago I made schematics of my supply air system.

If you have a 12V air pump and a 110V air pump it is much easier to find air leaks than the newer Newells that have a 2 110V air pump system.  

To start my search for my air leak the first thing I did was to isolate the main supply system from the 12V air system.  I shut off both the 12V & 110V air pumps.  I then drained the air tank I have in basement compartment R-1 and the air tank I have in the front of the right drive tire.  I then installed a leakdown tester in the 3/8" air line that joins the supply system to the 12V air system.  I then aired up the supply air system by turning on both the 110V & 12V air pumps.  Once the 110V air pump shut off I closed the valve on the leakdown tester.  The gauge on the side of the main supply air system did not drop & the 110V air pump did not come on.  The gauge on the 12V supply system immediately dropped until the 12V air pump came on at 30 psi.  The 12V air pump was cycling between 60 psi & 30 psi every 4 minutes.  This info told me I had a substantial air leak in my 12V air system & my main supply system was airtight.  

I shut off both air pumps and drained both air tanks.  I then reviewed my schematic of the 12V air system that I posted in the Documentation section of the forum.  I had four air systems to evaluate for leaks--the slide seals,  pocket doors, rear toilet and front toilet.  I started by installing a leakdown tester in the 1/4" air line coming off the air tank in front of the right drive tire.  I turned on the 12V air pump.  Once the 12V air pump shut off I closed the valve on the tester which isolated the rear slide seal from the 12V air system.  Tester showed the rear slide seal was holding pressure while the 12V system side was dropping and the 12V air pump was continuing to cycle.  I now know the rear slide seal is air tight.  Drained air system.  I then installed a leakdown tester into the 3/8" air line that goes to both slide seals.  Both slide seals were holding air pressure, but the 12V air system continued to drop.  I now have eliminated both slide seals and their air lines.

Drained air system.  Installed the leakdown tester in the air line between the 12V air regulator and the rear Microphor toilet.  I turned on the 12V air pump and shut off the leakdown tester valve when the air pump shut off.  The rear toilet was holding pressure, but the regulator side was leaking and the pump continued to cycle.  Reattached toilet air line to the regulator.  I have now eliminated the rear toilet and all associated air lines as the source of my leak.

Drained air system.  Installed the leakdown tester in the air line between the 12V air regulator and the front Microphor toilet.  I turned on the 12V air pump and shut off the leakdown tester valve when the air pump shut off.  The front toilet WAS NOT holding pressure.  I now know I have an air leak in the front toilet system.  

I still have the pocket door system to test.  Don't assume that you only have one leak.  Drained air system and installed leakdown tester in pocket door air line.  I turned on the 12V air pump and shut off the leakdown tester valve when the air pump shut off.  The pocket door air system held air pressure.

Now to find the air leak in the front toilet system.  I know it is a substantial leak so my tool of choice is my ultrasonic leak detector.  I remove the toilet tank cover and quickly find that the red air line at the toilet air sequence valve is leaking.  I noticed that the air line itself appeared to have pressure against it due to the way it was routed.  Drained air system.  I removed the line, rerouted it and reconnected it.  The leaking line was solved.  That air line had been hooked up for a couple years without leaking.

The tools I used are described in the Tool section in the Fun Stuff part of forum.

Hope this helps.......................................

Hello Gurus,
We are on a trip in Sherman TX.  Went to leave this morning and the front of the coach would not raise to travel height.  Did a little t/s and will try to articulate what is going on:

• With the engine running and air pressure at 120 HWH travel light on the front has not come up...back is fine.
  
• Air is escaping the front six pack manifold exhaust port.
  
• When I try to manually raise the coach I can hear the solenoid activate and more air escape by a factor of two.....coach will not raise.
  
• In the travel mode, I could not locate the magnetized travel solenoids.
  
• When I activate the dump switch I don't hear any change in the air leak.
  

Here are the questions; 

• I looked for a HWH manifold picture identifying the different solenoids in my books and could not find one.....does anyone have a diagram?
  
• On the front six pack which two valves should be energized in the travel mode?
  
• which one of the valves is the dump valve?
  

We are safe in a RV park so not on the side of the road situation.

Thank you in advance for the help!
Steve & Doris

Coach 1482 The bumping sound when the pocket doors opened and closed was annoying.  I read up on the solutions others posted but no joy.  My solution was to cut a 1" long piece of 1/2" ID vinyl hose which is 3/4" OD and stick it in the doorway near the top with double sided tape.  No more bump.

I did gain access to the rear bath air valve so here is a list of photos and files showing the part numbers.

At the encouragement of my wife, Tiffany, who entered into a discussion on turning radius, I've invested some time to create iterative models in determination of the steering cut angle and the pivot-point of the chassis when the steer-tag is at its maximum cut (believed to be 23 degrees).

Factoring the information provided here and elsewhere, attempting to split differences where they exist, I believe the following is likely the best representation:

(note: I've rounded to the nearest inch for simplicity)





I don't claim this to be definitive, it's merely my best attempt without having definitive details of maximum wheel-cut.  

I do realize the radii are slightly off from the published specs; however, based on my models it appears the published specs are rounded for simplicity.

If the wheel cut were any higher than 45 degrees, none of the published data would align unless the pivot-point was 1' or more further behind the drive-axle.  In that instance, other numbers would not align to published data.

If anyone has calibrated / accurate measurements or definitive specifications on front-wheel cut, please let me know and I will update.

I am shopping for a new to us coach and unfortunately find myself in a bit a of a moral dilemma, so I pose this situation to the group for your feedback and a "what would you do"

I have found a coach that I am interested in, however there is a rather large discrepancy in the actual mileage. The current owner is saying the coach has approximately 100k miles, which they base on the current odometer reading. A little bit of research on my end has discovered that the odometer had been replaced at some point in prior ownership, so in fact the real mileage is probably between 300-400k.

My question/dilemma is two fold:

How much real value difference would the higher mileage translate to on DD Series 60 coach?

To be clear, I do not believe that the current owner was deliberately misrepresenting the mileage, but since I have now brought this to their attention (simply confirmed by the DDEC) any furtherance (if that were to happen) of the claim of lower mileage would in fact be a willing misrepresentation of a known material fact and condition. So, if I do not buy this coach, should I share my knowledge with the group or strictly abide by caveat emptor and keep my mouth shut? Bottom line is that someone is going to get hit by this reality, and I am interested to know what you all think and what you would do in this situation.

Thank you in advance for your thoughtful and serious comments/replies.

I was wondering why I might turn that switch on.  Now I realize I would re-label it to "Increase Rear Height Clearance".  When I turn that switch on it changes the tag air spring (airbag) from around 75 PSI to 115 PSI or whatever the compressor is putting out.  The net result is the rear end roller by the trailer hitch is about 2" higher giving better ground clearance.  I put some mileage on that roller in Duluth and Gallup this summer prior to realizing what the switch does.

Looking for any recent part numbers, Active, duralite, or any other manufacturers that can supply a charge air cooler.

Thanks rundlc

No coach number is listed; however, this is an interesting unit due to the interior refit and very nice custom-painted, matching trailer:
https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2002-Ne...5023143539

At first glance, I thought $260k was a bit high; however, all things considered, the costs add-up quickly.

I'm a bit apprehensive in asking this question because I'll probably come across as bonkers...

None the less, my desire for clean clothes (ala Washer/Dryer) will have to take priority.

The 2006 Newell we've purchased has no washer/dryer and the only locations where one would fit, are located in the glide-outs.  I'm tempted to say "slide-outs" but I'm attempting to be true to Newell's nomenclature

Does anyone have any idea if it's possible to route hot/cold/1.5' flexible hoses in such a way that the extension/retraction of the slides won't be a problem?  Or whether there is another Newell where this was done (in that case, perhaps I can get the FEM from Newell and determine how it can be done)?

It is sounds like I'm being difficult, it's because our coach only has 68" (kitchenette side) & 82" (mid-bath side) of mid-coach, non-slide, wall and no possibility to install the smallest of W/D single-unit combos.

Thank you in advance for any insight,
Tiffany

I was at a friend's auto shop today and he suggested using a smoker to find air leaks.  He's used it in other applications at his shop to great success.  Has anyone tried this?
Is there a downside to trying it?