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  1. Newell Gurus
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  Mark Martin The Ultimate Guru

Posted by: RobSC
10-23-2022, 11:04 AM
Forum: General
- Replies (4)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9jil0NB_Lg

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  Power Steering Failure C15

Posted by: MR300
10-23-2022, 07:44 AM
Forum: General
- Replies (4)

My power steering failed on a trip from Dallas to Phoenix last week. The coach number is 1217 with a C15 Caterpillar. I pull a stacker trailer and weigh 74,000 lbs. As I was getting into Tucson it felt like the steering locked up. I was able to get it off the side of the highway on I-10 in a pretty safe spot. When the power steering goes out like this it is incredibly hard to turn. At speed it can be done but if it happened at slower speeds or on a sharp turn it could have been disastrous. All you have is arm strong to turn the wheel. Anyway, after talking to Newell and reading some posts on Newell Gurus the likely issue was the hydraulic pump that feeds the power steering and fan. If the engine is idling and the fan does not turn that is the best indicator.   Jim and Stacy from Newell had it happen to them and knew exactly what I would need. So, thanks to them and Carlos from Newell parts they were able to ship me what I needed. Chad Stevens from Premium Coach let me use his business to ship the parts and even loaned me some tools to get the job done. The hardest part was leaving the coach on the side of I-10 for the night. I have cameras on the trailer so I was up all night checking it! The parts arrived before 8 am and I was off back to the coach in Tucson.

Now the fun part. This was not an easy job on the side of the road. It was dirty and without a trailer full of tools it would have been much harder! I was able to complete the job in about 2.5 hours and was back on the road. I feel very fortunate I was able to do this job. No one wants to tow one of these coaches if at all possible.

I would urge anyone that owns a coach with a C15 with over 100K miles to replace this pump and gear before it fails! I have attached my invoice with the parts needed along with some pictures from the repair. Also want to thank Richard from Newell Gurus for his help. I sent him a PM and he called me right back. I love the support from the Newell family!

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  #480 rear slide inop

Posted by: rvguy
10-22-2022, 06:59 AM
Forum: Slides
- Replies (18)

and here we go again.
rear slide is inop will not go out.
here is as much info as I can give ( richard tought me that lol)
coach fully aired up at 120 psi
coach level
batteries have a full charge of 13.8 volts
front slide and floor work perfectly
Turn on rear slide hwh controller in bedroom and seals deflate. light turns yellow so ready for operation. when I press the extend button i can hear a pump running but only the top of the slide will move, and it only moves about 1/2" then no further. bottom of slide will not move at all. when i try and retract the slide it only will come back in on that top the little it had gone out. I pulled the floor up under the bed to expose the runners , limit switches and a hydralic ram. no leaks in system, nothing under there that is causing a bind or sticking it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

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  Replacement Fridge

Posted by: BusNit
10-21-2022, 08:49 PM
Forum: Interior Things
- Replies (16)

I am looking to replace the Amana side by side in coach 312. Can someone with a similar vintage measure the space between cabinets from fridge to counter top across? My coach is at Leo getting some attention and not in my possession. Looking at a Fisher & Paykel 2 door stainless model that will fit the height but will need me to fabricate and laminate a filler as the new fridge is about 5-1/2" narrower. I am concerned the door may not open fully and particular the bottom freezer where the drawers can't be pulled out unless the door is open 90º. I believe the fridge measures 31-7/8" wide. Considering left hand hinge. Still up in the air but I think that may help prevent a violent door swing if it were right hand hinge with the door not being secured.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www...wtQ1MpdFf7
Thank you!!

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  Air Compressor Setting 8V92TA

Posted by: [email protected]
10-20-2022, 01:39 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (1)

Is there a pressure adjustment for the engine driven air compressor? Mine just stays on until it bumps up against the relief valve setting at 150psi.

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  cooling system out now what? LOL

Posted by: rundlc
10-19-2022, 04:54 PM
Forum: Drivetrain
- Replies (3)

Well it was bound to happen at some point, 73k miles CAC no good, Rad needs work. I've asked Newell to please tell me exactly what CAC I have. I'd just buy it new from them to save time but they are not sure whats in there (or was). The mechanic says Morgan suggested I send it to Texas to have it remade to the exact one I need. So well get the radiator over to the shop tomorrow for a good cleaning out and repair. 

I'd like to have the system redesigned to make it easier to get out but at this point that's out of the question. I'm sure she is gonna be down for a few months.                

Heavy Sigh but at least I will not need to worry about this issue again

Coolless in Calif

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Information REPLACE DEF DOSER ANNUALLY!

Posted by: CaptainGizmo
10-19-2022, 10:53 AM
Forum: Fuel System
- Replies (11)

I realize that the majority of the Gurus are "pre-Def'rs", but for those of us who are less fortunate, this will be of value.  Maybe...you can tell a friend in need.  Wink

I've posted this on the VIP group on FB, just to get the word out.

After quite a bit of research, I've learned that the DEF Doser is recommended to be replaced EVERY YEAR!  The injector gets corroded, and the efficiency diminishes and won't REGEN as effectively.  This can cause excess DEF leaking, Faults, and even a Derate.
In the case of my 2015 ISX, I have a strong feeling that's why I've got DEF crystals forming under my filter.  Plus, I'm seeing white specks stuck to the back of my rig and TOAD.
   
Kinda interesting how CUMMINS didn't mention, or have a clue about this after I've asked several times!
I first saw this info from a large diesel mechanic on youtube, but did more digging and found a CUMMINS schedule chart...and guess what?  Yup...every 12 months!  Yes, it says 150k, but REMEMBER...just as with tires, our coaches will AGE-OUT before MILING-out!  So, it's the case of "whichever comes first".
   
Anyway, Cummins sells them for around $200, but the diesel shops suggest that you can get an eBay (or Amazon) version for $30 which works just fine.  So, I'll give that a shot!  I mean, what could go wrong?  Big Grin
BTW, I think we're in luck in terms of accessing the doser.  It appears as though Newell has a Stainless access panel between the battery and engine, which means we can access it from the TOP...wouldn't that be a welcomed change!
   

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  Heat pump issue

Posted by: dbld58
10-19-2022, 02:30 AM
Forum: Air Conditioning
- Replies (37)

Hi all,

Why would none of my 4 roof units work?  I turned them on heat pump…nothing.  Then turned fans on high…and still nothing. 

Why is this?

The coach has been sitting but the AC was working great just a few weeks ago. 

I checked circuit breakers and all good there. Generator is running and have full power.

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  Pneumatic Door Air Silencer

Posted by: hypoxia
10-18-2022, 06:00 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (10)

What is everyone using to eliminate the air exhaust noise from the entry door operation?  Mine has no muffler & I want to make the door operation seen but not heard.  There are a lot of options so I am wondering what has been used?  I have 1/4" tubing coming from the exhaust valves to make it easy to install a muffler.

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  Replacing Battery Isolator on my 701

Posted by: kaptain
10-18-2022, 10:17 AM
Forum: Electrical
- Replies (22)

While I was about to install the newly arrived Xantrex Echo Charge onto my 701, I further checked the wirings. I discovered a new issue: the battery isolator is apparently defective and needs replacement. The defect is that a middle (input) stud is broken or missing, and four (4) thick red wires are connected to one single stud.

This connection seems to purposely bypass the battery isolator to establish connectivity allowing electrical current to flow, but in any direction now, instead of limiting one-way-only flow from the alternator to the two battery groups.

See the attached photos showing the wiring issue. Now I believe the erroneous wiring here (might be as well as the erroneous wiring with Xantrex charge) are intentional rather than a mistake.  And I wonder if this was done by any repair shops or the previous owner. 

   
   

And I created a schematic that hopefully better illustrates the issue: three battery isolator terminals: A (output), B (input), C (output). Now connects A,B,C together - that's the issue.

   

So I started looking to buy a new part to replace the Sure Power 3002 on my 701. This is a battery isolator rated at 300 Amp. "Sure Power 3002" seems a discontinued/obsolete product for some time already, and it is hard to find. A few listings I could find show price over $500, even with used ones.  I found a Sure Power 3003 (which supports three battery groups) that also costs cover $500. 

So I started thinking about my options. Do I really have to buy the same model or the same type of battery isolator?  My understanding is that the Sure Power 3002 basically consists 2 large capacity diodes with a big heatsink. I could buy 2 or 3 large capacity rectifier diodes (prices around $10-$20/each) and build an isolator for under $100, but using rectifier diodes for current directional flow has one major drawback: a 0.65-0.75 voltage drop or power loss.   

My second option seems to go with mechanical relays. Many such relays are sold on Amazon, listed as Smart Relay Isolators, which switch on when the alternator has an output (engine running). When the alternator has no output (engine off), the circuity is automatically cut off, thereby disconnecting and separating batteries. The advantage of such a mechanical-based isolator is that there is no voltage drop like diode-based ones. But these types of relays rely on mechanical contacts to open/close; over time, these contacts go bad, especially switching on/off at an electrical current. 
Here are several mechanical relays seem attractive:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084VVGT4T/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q27WCHM/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SW4XVNR/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WDPZEW/


My 3rd option seems to use a "Schottky Diodes" based isolator, which works the same principle as the SurePower 3002, but it improves the voltage drop by half or ~0.3v (low current) to ~0.45V at high current.

So I kept thinking and searching. I see there is another type of isolator that employs MOS-FET. This type of transistor works great as a solid-state open/close switch over high currency, the advantage is it can reach near-zero voltage drop. Examples of such are made by Analytic Systems, Model: IBI1-40-340 cost about $200, this is attractive.

After considering several alternatives for replacement, I decided to go with "Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolator, 200A", which supports 3 batteries, although I only need support for 2.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UAN0HBE/

FET isolators allow simultaneous charging of two or more batteries from one source without the voltage loss associated with common diode isolators. I see Victron makes both (Schottky) diode-based and FET-based.

   

Now, here are my questions and a few items I need help on:

1) What is the isolator on your coach, maker, and model? I'd like to see how Newell fast changes and moves from older/traditional isolators to new ones over the years.

2) What would be your choice if you were me?

3) What type of alternator is on your coach? I have a Delco Remy 50DN, Part# 1117860. My alternator is good, but I'd like to read its wiring information.
    I found some documents online about this type of 50DN alternator, but none of such documents contained wiring information.
    https://www.delcoremy.com/support/servic...ion-sheets

4) I measured my house battery negative terminal against chassis metal. It reads about 1 volt. I thought the chassis metal should be ground therefore 0 voltage from the battery was negative against the chassis metal. What's the reading with your coach, with Alternator/Charger cut off both on and off?

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