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Good day gurus. I can hear air leaking from behind the rear wheels. Using my leak detector, I tracked it down to the bottom side of the manifold that holds the air dryer filter behind the left rear tag tire. The leak is coming from where the hex head is located in the attached picture. The picture is the bottom of the manifold to which the air dryer filter is located on top. My question is whether I can try tightening the hex bolt or if that is not recommended? If I do tighten it, how hard can I crank down on it?

Anyone else experience a leak like this on their water pump? Was going to start with new outlet cap and thread tape.

My 2nd ever post in so many minutes.
My 89 Widebody has an annoying air leak from the wiper switches. Takes a bit of fiddling to get them to stop. I’m sure it’s the seals but I don’t know where to start looking to fix , replace or switch to electric?
 Thank you for any thoughts on the subject.
 Peter

Hello All:
  My name is Peter Smith and this is my first post.
  I have been eyeballing classic Newells for years and just now have purchased an ‘89 Widebody with 29K miles. #209 Flew out to Portland Oregon and drove her home to Massachusetts. 2380 hours on the generator and beautifully maintained and updated. The previous owner went top of the line with everything he did from installing the whole Victron management system to Recaro seats.
 Anyway I have for the moment one question. In the bathroom are three light switches and a gfi outlet in a row and one of the switches has a red light that comes on above it as I hear an electronic switch of some kind activating. The sound of the switch comes from the opposite side around the bedroom closet and I can’t figure out what it does. Along with the sound and the red circular light above it seems like it should have some importance.
 Any thoughts are appreciated and I am very pleased to now be a part of the Newell community.

This is admittedly stolen from the Wanderlodge group.

I surfed around their website and liked what I saw. 

We are always looking for replacement handles, catches, locks, and hinges

https://industrialhwe.com/

You Know Your From Miami, OK

For any of you who have not visited the home of Newell Coach, this is an interesting look at the city that gave birth to your Newell. 

The town is named after the Miami Tribe of Oklahoma. It is pronounced "My-am-uh", unlike the city in Florida "My-am-ee" which is named from the Tequesta word meaning "wide lake". The Miami tribe was relocated by the government from the Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, Michigan and Wisconsin area to Kansas then to Oklahoma prior to 1846.

The Coleman Theater

See picture and I plan to replace it but is this a bad tire, a worn component... suspension or bearings or?    I do get a vibration between 68 and 71 mph on certain roadways but it is not always noticeable.

Lithium Battery Considerations for #586
My house batteries are on their way out. Currently they are 6 AGM batteries. I want to go with lithium and have read all of the posts here I could find.
I have 2 Magnum 3012 inverter chargers. One is currently used only for the 2nd Subzero refrigerator. The other powers the 1st Subzero refrigerator, the 120v compressor, and everything else a single inverter usually powers in a coach. I use ME-RC remote controls for each inverter.
Here are some points I’ve read about and figured out by reading my manuals and these forum posts.
1. I’ll have to use custom settings because the ME-RC does not have a preconfigured Lithium battery choice. The ME-ARC does but I’m not going to upgrade to those controllers.
2. I don’t plan on adding solar.
3. I expect we will boondock more since we are snowbirds and spend more time in cooler climates. We don’t need to run the air conditioning all the time like we did in Florida.
4. I have the big oil cooled alternator. I’m interested in NOT creating issues with this because of the low charging resistance in Lithium batteries.
5. I have the big blue isolator in the rear electrical cabinet. Alternator in post, a post for house batteries and a post for engine batteries.
6. The smartest guy I know said he went through alternators when he would boondock and just drive away the next morning letting the engine alternator charge the batteries. When he changed his MO to running the generator as well, his alternator issues were reduced (or eliminated). I don’t recall if this was on their first Newell and has been overcome when/if his second had the big oil cooled alternator.
7. If I remove the house batteries from the isolator and install a DC-DC charger (engine to house direction, 30 or 40 AMP) will this be a viable option instead of running the generator?
8. Should I set up my system to only charge the batteries from the 2nd inverter/charger because it would be more straight forward to monitor and control? As I ask this it sounds easier to manage this way but splitting the charging duties might keep heat down in each inverter/charger and battery cables.
9. My generator starts from the house batteries.
10. I don’t set the merge switch when hooked up to shore power. With Lithium when this is needed for starting the engine I should leave it merged for 20 minutes or so before attempting an engine start.
11. I’ll have to reconfigure my automatic generator start for the Lithium profile. I may upgrade to the Magnum AGS for this. I haven’t determined the original AGS settings capabilities yet.
Anything else I need to consider? 
What has worked for you guys?

I have been hesitant at rebuilding my front six pack because I didn't want to unbolt the manifold to do it.
I drove up on blocks under the front wheels, raised the coach all the way up, and put jack stands under the frame.
I released the air out of my suspension and got to work.
I marked each set of wires before removing the coil from the solenoid. Bottom Front, Bottom Middle, Bottom Rear, etc.
Then I removed the solenoid and rebuilt each as it was removed so I could tell if there was an issue on any one circuit.
After rebuilding all 6 I reinstalled them in the reverse order. TR, BR, TM, BM, TF, and BF.
I wish I had done this before we sold our house and lost my private parking spot.

Jeff at Geno's garage relocated his six pack to the hydraulic bay. I will probably make this mod in the future. That way troubleshooting will be easier and I will have access to each solenoid without removing all of them.

I have an air leak when you release the parking brake quite audible,  set the parking brake it stops.
I found a hobbs air switch leaking out the back when brake is released ( after a bunch of work to get it out ).

Hobbs - B 76577 4 9613 is the part.

NC contact by labels.

This part appears to be adjustable.  I can't find any info in the forum other than it's tied to the refrigerator lock, interlocks ON brake released
to lock the fridge.

Question, is that it's only purpose?

What is the opening/operating pressure?

There are a mess of replacement air switches with various pressures.

Just get it from Newell...?