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I went out today and fired my Aqua-Hot, let it run for about 45 minutes then fired of the Detroit. I let that run for about an hour just to keep things moving over the winter.  while all that was going on i... took a bike out for a ride since it was 49 degrees in anchorage today. I feel bad for all the folks in the south that are stuck with our Alaska weather. That said this mild winter up here has been super nice.

Everything on my bus seems to be functioning properly. Aqua-Hot only ran for about an hour and a half and raised the inside temp from 38 to 47  so looks like it works like it should.

   

   

bed retracted to drive today. upon arrival bed stuck in retracted position ( shortens bed length, not raise/lower) cant find fuse or where power for the switch originates . Looked at both 12 volt fuse panels- all fuses good- did not find this particular one however.
Any help appreciated tonight in particular.
JD

I put my Starlink under the fiberglass cap in front of the coach and am not getting a signal - has anyone else tried this and succeeded?

Next issue sorting out coach
Hard starting lack of fuel. once started after lots of cranking, will run at low idle for about a minute then shut down. once I can get speed up and put in high idle, continues to run.
Read various posts regarding tank vent, check valve and filter but not sure if my issues is one of these. Any strong opinions?
Thanks
JD

I am going to offer this out to you Valid 6 pack valve users.  if you are interested, fine.  if not thats fine too.  newell switched to valid from hwh in 2004.  

I ordered from Valid the 6 pack valve rebuild kit (6x1053).  that was earlier 2024 and it was 55 dollars for a single valve plus 40 dollars shipping from canada.  i dont know what it costs today.  that was after i had helped a few valid newell folks work on their 6 packs and i saw that the guts were essentially the same.  

on the hwh systems, the stem screws into a brass or aluminum body that then screws into the manifold.  the valid setup has the stem (that the plunger goes in) screw directly into the manifold.  the orfice is in the manifold whereas the orfice is in the brass body that screws into the manifold on the hwh setup.  

the grove that wears in the seal of the plunger is normal over time.  if it gets scored from debris is when it can possibly leak by.  of course there are many other reasons that the suspension can leak down or go up when it should not.  these are just one of the reasons.     these kinds of valves are normally done in completely clean and dry systems and meant for zillions of actuations.  of course our systems are not that clean with moisture and sometimes debris of rust running through them.  that is the culprit.  

that kit that i got from valid is pictured below.  it has a new stem, the one oring it uses, the plunger and a spring and the nut to hold the coil on.

i have done many of the kits for hwh setups and the need for the stem that screws in the manifold has only come up a few times when someone damaged it taking it out. 

the measurements on the plunger are within tenths of a millimeter.   the valid coil is 14watts and the hwh coil is 9 watts, so the springs that i have for the hwh kits i am suggesting to not use since i am not sure of their spring strength in the valid setup.  the original valid springs should really be fine.  it is just the wear on the seat of the plunger that we get concerned about.  

if you have had them apart,  the is way more slop in the plunger inside the stem than the minute difference in the dimensions.  

if you look at the valid plunger and the one that i have the only real difference is how they insert the seal.  there has to be an air escape hole to put the seal in.  on mine it is a tiny hole on the side in the groove.  on the valid there is a large hole the length of the plunger coming out the bottom.  the valid seal is red,  mine is blue

so my kit for valid use would include 6 plungers,  6 orings, and the spanner wrench to take them out of the 6 pack manifold.  

until my costs go up, that would be 125 dollars including usps shipping in the usa.   that would do one six pack.   i charge more for the hwh kits as it has springs and more o rings.  

i know some have bought other plungers that dont fit and removed the seal and re inserted it in the valid plunger.  i am sure that is just fine as well but i have not done it.  it is probably cheaper as well.  

if you look at the hwh plunger thread,  you can see one of our gurus was here at my home and he installed the plungers that i have in his front six pack and has been traveling for a while with no issues.  that thread is many years old.  i have had zero issues with any of the parts over that time.  including guys from the foreforum.  they have a longer thread on this using my parts for hwh systems.  

as always when working on the six packs, block up the coach so it wont come down on you.  (especially the front since it is behind the drivers headlight behind the bumper.)

my pictures are of used plungers.  the new ones dont have any wear in them.  

if you are interested, please email me at [email protected]    feel free to contact me if you have questions.  i am more than glad to give you my phone number, just not here.  if you dont feel comfortable doing this, then don't   i am just trying to help out.  

i am not a business, and started doing these to help out a few buddies.  the foretravel gang grabbed ahold along with our newell friends.  i order these in fairly small batches and just post here on gurus and the foreforum when i have them. 

tom

my display changed for some reason,not displaying status or system info. I noticed the device name is no longer the model ...3012 on the drop down menu but invchg 00.
how do I correct?

Thanks
JD

I'm not full timing but do enjoy several months at a time on the road. So not sure where to post the following.

 I have discovered a weakness in my preparation of traveling into colder weather. We are currently in Amarillo TX and they have been experiencing a bit of a cold snap this week, having single digits overnight and wind chill to a minus 4 +/-. My coach 784's weakness is at the generator compartment. I should have looped a Aquahot line or a extension from my engine coolant lines into the Hush box and along the fuel lines. My fuel tank and fuel is saying it's at 22 degrees and I had not, till now, added any additives to keep my fuel from gelling. Currently the Gen set will not start due to fuel gelling. Running my Cat engine recirculates the fuel and gets fuel warmer, while running, and brought up 150 gallons to 30 degrees in about 10 minutes of fast idling.

The Hush box is the only compartment that is not piped into the Aquahot. I have been able to keep the coach comfy and the Preheater on the Cat engine at about 110 degrees. 

Yes, I know, why travel during these temperatures? The answer.... I do not like being confined to rules and common sense LOL

Changed fluid to amsoil synthetic while changing two hoses. All of a sudden I have leaks in new places. What fluid other than synthetic should I put in? 
2005 dd 60 .
Thanks 
Jd

I acquired a Jun-Air 6-25 compressor today which was sold as a Custom Vac Compressor by Den-Tal-EZ with 325 hours on the meter.  There was a plastic bottle of oil attached which spilled, wow, that's some stinky oil!  Is the SJ27 oil that stinky?  I haven't tried to figure out what some of the parts are, I don't need most of them.  The data sheet said there should be 305 seconds from zero pressure to 120 PSI in the 25L tank, it beat that.  Wow, it sure is quiet!  I plan to replace one of the Thomas compressors with the Jun-Air although I haven't done any measurements yet.

Any advice on the Jun-Air? It won't be running much. The only time our compressor runs is when we operate a door, but the Thomas compressor surely annoys the neighbors on the driver side.

All,
On our current coach our Splendide Washer/Dryer combo unit was making a loud banging noise during the spin cycle. The unit was level and all attachments were tied back and nothing was touching the unit. After removing it from the coach and investigating the WD unit found the attachment bolts on the concrete counterweight loose. Once tight the machine is back to sounding new. I removed the unit from the coach but one could build a platform to slide the WD unit clear of the cabinet and remove the top (two screws) to gain access to these bolts.  I have never had this happen to any of our machines over the years so this was a first for me.