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Hope someone has had this issue and can walk me thru it.  both front and rear scs ac system wants to not go into cool mode on tstats.  Let me try and clarify. aquahot electric side switch in the a/c on position. when I turn on either a/c the heat light is all that will come on on the tstats even if I drop the temp to 60 degrees ( usally the symbol will change to the snowflake emblem). I have checked all circuit breakers in back as well as the ones on the left side in the cargo bay and all are good. I attached some pics.  Is there a relay somewhere that might have gone bad ( like when the aquahot is in electric mode and it shuts down the ac units). Problem just arose on this last trip out to california. I can turn the fans on for the ac units  and they work on low or high. If ya need more info let me know  tried to explain best I could.
       

I’m replacing the fuel filter on my series 60, and wondering if there is a way to do it where I do not have to re-prime the injectors???

Does anybody know where I can locate a pin for the engine cover lock on my 2002 couch (639)? I haven’t tried Newell yet, as I was hoping that it might be just a standard GM or Ford item that I could just pick up at Napa or maybe a junk yard.  Anyone ever try to source one?

Newell friends,

I’m Lauren (43) and my husband is Howard (56) we are full-time in our 2008 45’ Newell Coach #1234 with our two terriers, Luna and Starz! Many of you know this coach from the previous, previous owner Ben “Nebster”, that installed roof-top solar and extensive battery system back in 2018ish. We starting RVing back in 2015 and have had serval RVs since then, Winnebago, airstream, sprinter van and a storyteller GXV Hilt. My husband has some health issues that we are working through and we weren’t ready to give up the RV lifestyle so we went with a pre-DEF Newell for comfortability and quality craftsmanship. Hope to see some of you guys down the road, although we will be in the Dallas / Fort Worth area for an extended period of time in 2026 since I just lost my father and health reasons. We’ve learned a lot so far and look forward to learning even more from the group. I’m sure we will have lots of questions!

Cheers,

Hi,

We are new owners of coach #1234, our front air compressor is running constantly . I searched the forum but didn’t have any look for what I’m looking for. 

The biggest leak is from the compressor(s). Wrapped in white tape into the reservoir. Is there an upgrade to this 2008 tech that can circumvent all these connections? Or at least over better system with the air release?

Thanks,

Ok guys,
I'm sure it's in here somewhere but I can't find it for the life of me.
I have a classic 1986 that just suddenly lost all its headlights (both high and low beam) the brights will come on but only if I hold the stalk, they will not latch on. If I check the kick panel (number three I think), there is power. Also there is power coming to and leaving the headlight switch but no joy at the headlight sockets.
So I'm guessing there is a relay somewhere right? Does anyone know where I find this relay? Does anyone know where the wires run? Do they run outside on the driver's side floor or the passenger side?
Thanks in advance.

We need a permanent repair nearest Lexington Kentucky for multiple foggy windiws in  a 2009 coach

Had another water leak from our Dometic DN 1070 undercounter icemaker.  The leak was in the bend in the plastic line where it goes through the sheetmetal under the cooling fan. The thin plastic water line was leaking at the sheetmetal hole. Poor engineering, poor selection of materials.

The hardware guy recommended a house standard stainless braided 1/4" rubber lined ice maker line.
The part number was a 121M72 for the 72" line that I bought.  The problem is the new connections will not go through the old line holes.

I ordered a Harfington sheet metal hole punch 28.3 mm from Amazon for about $21, and removed the fan from the cabinet.  Five screws out will free the whole fan, unplug the wires and remove the fan and housing.  Remove the old plastic insulator and insert the hole punch bolt, thread the end of the punch on the bolt and tighten.  A racheting 18 mm wrench fits nicely into the cavity to tighten the punch until the hole is enlarged.  Three 3/4" grommets with the outside grooves filled with silicone were installed in the three newly enlarged holes.  There is a hole in the back cabinet metal, the one under the fan and the one in the front where the line goes to the water valve.  The 18mm wrench will fit in all three spots.

Rubber gloves are good when slipping the siliconed grommets into the enlarged sheetmetal holes.  In addition, I bought a piece of clear plastic tubing just big enough to allow the braided hose connections to slide through.  The size for me just barely fit through the rubber grommets.  That should stop water line chafing permanently. (The end of the waterline is just wrapped into the unit so it is not on the floor.)

I just completed the rebuild of the aqua hot in my coach (#639).  Not for the fate of heart!!!!….but I am happy with the outcome. My domestic water appears to get hotter faster and I was able to add a High voltage (48v) DC element to serve as a solar load dump for my solar system. All in all I’mpretty happy with the outcome. However, the exhaust on both the generator and the aqua hot is pretty beat up and I have decided to replace it all. The Y between the generator and the aqua hot is in particularly bad shape. I’m thinking about being lazy and just run the aqua hot out the side next to where the “y” is (exiting on the drivers side).  I can never foresee a situation where I would want it to go up top. I don’t plan on spending any time crowded in an infield at a NASCAR race. I do, however, like having the generator run up high through the stack as I feel like it quiets it down even more. So my question is…is there any benefit to running a shorter exhaust out the side? is it more efficient? I’m hoping someone will say yes so that I can justify my lazyness!

Larry 2006 Newell 45 #756. I am having an issue with my generator, it starts and runs great but dies as soon as I release the start switch. I’ve checked the oil pressure sender and it’s fine. The coach is new to me 2 weeks ago and is in very nice condition but I kind of need the generator to work. Any help would be appreciated.