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      It is supposedly in Lubbock Texas

Does anyone happen to have a part # for the drive axle bolt and nut? I make the genius decision to run up a 6 mile 6% grade just east of Butte, MT, without enough fuel in the main, and the aux closed off. Starved the engine of fuel since it all ran to the back of the tank.  We did get that resolved by priming the secondary fuel filter inlet, after a few tries. 

After a very long night on the shoulder of I90, 1.2 miles from Homestake Westbound Park area, StateFarm finally got a heavy wrecker out to pull me up the hill to flat ground. He pulled the drive axle from the differential, and in so doing buggered up one of the bolts and nuts. Now I am leaking fluid and he has yet to source a replacement.  

A) I don't think I should drive on this after reading differential fluid nightmares, so we are stuck.  

B) I am assuming if I knock out this bolt to take it into an auto shop to match it, I'm going to be dumping a lot of oil in the interim. 

So, does anyone have the part number off hand? 

Thanks, ~ Marcus.

I can’t be the only person you have ever had to deal with this, but I’m having a hard time finding anything using the search function.  What started out as a poor water pressure problem from BOTH pumps has quickly advanced to a complete wet bay rebuild!  I’ll circle back around to the pressure problems in another post after I get the floor replaced. 
Is there some kind of “approved fix”?  At this point my plan is to cut out a new floor from 14 or 16 gauge, weld it back in, paint and the maybe add a hardy backer type material, red guard , and tile it up to look nice and custom.  Any thoughts on this (aside from added weight?

Now that it's getting cold here in AZ it's time for us to start running the furnace.  Zone B is working as it should but neither zone A or C is working.

 Neither the heat exchanger fans or associated pumps for A and C is coming on. I've moved the relay from B to A to see if that would do anything but it did not.

I'm now going through the manual and trying to figure out the problem.  In the manual it's telling me to check for a ground signal from the thermostat at pin 0, however it doesn't show me where pin 0 is.

Where would I find pin 0 and how do I check for a ground signal.

Thanks in advance

Tyler Phillips

---

Also, it's kinda strange that the one zone that is working doesn't have a wire going to it from the thermostat.

Hi all.  Looking at an older '95 that had the A/Cs converted from the basement to the roof.  Are two roof A/Cs sufficient to cool a 42.6 ft coach?

Thanks in advance!

Trying to clean up some issues in the wet bay of #639.  This sensor/sender looking thing is hanging above the city water regulator.  Anyone know what it is for?      

We are heading south soon in the Prevost and I want to put the Newell in shut down mode but I still want to keep my seals on the slide inflated so this is my idea and please someone tell me if I'm thinking wrong. I don't want my jun air compressor running while I'm gone as it gets below 0 F here and I'm afraid that will kill my jun air so my plan is to isolate the air circuit that comes off the DC compressor that feed the slide seals and doors and use a small compressor set at 30 psi and leave it in my garage connected to that circuit. As for the rest of the coach it will not need anything its already winterized.

Does anyone have a source for the interior door & cabinet latches in the 2020P model coach.  They appear to be Southco MP-04-33-55.  The plastic fingers that push the magnet allowing the door/drawer to open broke on one of mine.

Waiting 3 hours for Newell tech to call back to give instructions on how to reset door code. 
Maybe somebody here can Answer exact how to. The #9 button is in op and will not accept open code. Not locked out but can't lock up.found test button but need next steps.
Thanks

---

Reset not test.

Not to be cryptic. This is a Public Service Announcement.
After some recent issues with the starter batteries, I thought it might be a good idea to check on the house batteries. It had been a while. 
For #300, I have two house batteries, and they are held in a stainless-steel battery box located on the left side of the engine compartment. The box is covered by a plexiglass lid. I used to try to keep it cleaned off, but it was a losing battle, and I finally gave up (not a good idea).

When I removed the lid the first thought I had was that I never realized the battery box had a sloped bottom and the batteries set at an angle. Then I looked to the sides and saw a 3" gap between the top of the box and where it was supposed to be. The welds on the front edge and sides of the box had broken and the box was just hanging on by the backside welds. 

Not a difficult fix but very thankful I found it before we head out next week. I don't know how long it has been like this. It was probably a year ago when I was in that compartment. We rewelded all of the old welds and added a few more. For extra security, I added some stainless angle along the front and sides. Should be good to go now. I have the same set up for my starter batteries but No weld issues on that side. I will probably beef it up some as well.

I've added this to my check list. if you have this set up, it might be worth checking on it every now and then.