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zf transmission problem
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Front End Upgrade
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Early 90's Coach Settles ...
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House batteries
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No Supply side Air
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My wife and I made it to our Christmas destination, but a tag axle hub cover did not. It appears the narrow (and even the thick) covers are out of stock…. AND EXPENSIVE! Not being a slave to originality, and kinda liking the newer look, I’m considering swapping them all out. I realize the new style are plastic and probably harder to clean, but I do like the look. Is there anything I should consider before I go this route?
Thx!
Hi Everyone. I picked my coach up in October. It has 1 driver side slide. On the trip back from picking it up the slide out awning went in and out with the slide as it's supposed to. The last stop before home I ran the slide out like I have before and it broke the aluminum castings that hold the roller tube. I took the slide awning off so that I could get home. Well I finally got the parts from Zip Dee. Put everything back together per their instructions and watching the YouTube video that AZ rv expert did on replacing one (see below video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO8Iuj7ReKA
So long story short. I went to put the slide out and watch the slide awning go out like it was supposed to and it got almost all the way out and 1 of the castings broke again. Zip Dee is closed for the holiday but just wondered it anyone else had any problems like this?? The spring is original but seem like it wound nicely.

My left turn signal does not work, my right does. The left indicator on the dash turns on, but does not blink,
Micro Switches provide power to marker turn signal board
4 ways work left front signal blinks with flashers
Blue wire from fuse 42 in front panel to flasher
Blue wire from flasher to terminal 25 front panel
Black wire from front panel to connector on steering Colum
Yellow wire from connector to turn signal switch flasher power
Gray wire from switch to connector for left rear direction signal light
Green for left front from switch to connector for left direction signal light
black wire is for rear left turn signal from front panel to back relay for turn signal
White from connector to front panel for left front
white with black stripe is for front left turn turn signal
712 was built with led flashers
front leds plus rear relays are what make the flasher pulse
old led bulbs drew 30t-50% more power than new ones which was enough to make flashers work
some leds in my left turn signal bulb must of burnt out causing current to drop and it not to blink on left turn but blink with the 4 ways extra load from right bulb
the extra flashers the PO added made it do weird stuff
when I put in new bulbs it did not work called tech support for Truck Lite and they told me new leds used 30-50% less power than old ones
bought 2 different new flashers that were advertised for Led bulbs both did not work
called Newell was told they put resistors in parallel with the light if it does not flash that is what I did
Bulb is 1/4 turn to get out
tool to get bulb out 2" plastic pipe with a piece of 2" pipe with 1" cut out of it compressed with channel plyer's and put in side the first pipe then 2 pieces cut off leaving 2 3/8" pieces trimmed to go in light
2 nd piece pushed down into 1st piece
finished tool 2 screws to stop it from turning hole drilled in case I need more leveraged
I used this light following the circuit to see when it would stop working it never did when I got to the connection before the bulb the bulb would flash checked the ground it was good. Put a new bulb in it would not work, this was when I called tech support,
I did not need the scope but I was hoping someone could see something wrong in the trace and tell me what to look for
relay in front is pulsing
PO added this don't know why This was part of the problem

We are currently boondocking in the clatsop state forest in Oregon, and though we have only had constant rain, when we drive into town there are signs for "snow zone, snow tires or chains required". I'm buying chains for the GL350, but I have some questions on getting some for the coach.
Chains: does anyone have brand/model recommendations.
Drive axle: do I need chains just for the outside set of wheels or ones that cover both sets?
Ride height: should I adjust the ride height up for better clearance of the chains?
Tips and tricks: if anyone has tips and tricks for running with chains, I am all eyes and ears. I also get the best tip/trick is don't get yourself somewhere that you need chains.
We were looking for some boondocking in the Olympic forest in Washington earlier in the month. Ended up being a hill climb from the get go, all the way up to the snow line. By the time we actually reached the end of private land, I started up a hill, and about 200 feet in, we were no longer going up hill. Ended up backing down, while threading the trailer into a single lane bridge at a 90° turn, we had just passed to get turned around. ? With a wall of dirt on one side, and an unguarded cliff on the other, I got one attempt to get it right, since pulling forward wasn't an option to straighten out.
To be quite honest, I rather go back to shoving C130s around fighter parking in an active combat zone than attempt that reverse feat again.
I hope everyone is having a happy holiday season, and thanks in advance!

12-27-2024, 02:27 PM
Forum: Televisions, Satellite, Audio Visual Stuff
- Replies (27)
I installed a Starlink Mini on the roof inside the Winegard RoadTrip Mission TV Antenna Dome. I took the dome off of the roof (8 nuts, unplug 3 cables) and removed the satellite TV antenna from inside the dome. The Starlink Mini comes with a pole mount adapter, I cut a piece of tubing and welded a mounting plate to it. I mounted the assembly to the dome base and installed the Mini on it. I scrounged around the shop and found 2 power connectors that fit the Mini. I installed one on the each end of the RoadTrip power cable (inside the dome and inside the TV cabinet), plugged one end into the Mini and the other end into the Starlink Power Adapter. I plugged that into 120VAC behind the TV. It works great!
There are 6 screws that hold the dome on. It's easy to remove the Starlink Mini if I want to take it with me on a different adventure.

12-27-2024, 12:29 AM
Forum: Discussion about what to consider on buying a used Newell
- Replies (3)
All,
I have been in the hunt for a Newell Coach for a while and have found several that I am considering.
The coach I am looking at are 2007 - 2010
What should I look for?
What should I ask for?
Besides the typical Battery, Tires and slides what should I look for?
Is there a list that I need to go through?
I will also need an independent inspector. Any suggestions for who to call? (Florida and Texas for now)
How can I check the windows and airbags and what do I need to look out for when opening and closing the slides
How can I confirm the status of the engine and Gen engine?
What about the heater, AC and the aquahot system?
What would be recommended to check all the internal, electrical and mechanical operations.
Soo many questions
Thank you in advance
Josh

I had to run an errand in Ocala today, much to my surprise I spotted a cream colored Newell northbound on 75 just south of Ocala. It takes a second but the brain wakes up, and I think, I know that coach. The towed trailer was another reminder. It was one of our gurus. Jeff Lo Giuduice. I hope you made it through the Ocala madness without incident.

I tried the search function on this but (as usual) I could not get the answer.
I have almost no hot water out of my shower valve. From the amount of crap I have pulled out of my screens. In other faucets its likely the screen is plugged. I cannot figure out how to get the temperature control knob off. There is no removable cap on the front of the knob to conceal a set screw. Does anybody know how to get this thing apart? Additional info: Hot water in all other faucets works great so I doubt it’s the mixing valve at the aqua hot. Thank you.

My #1 pump isn’t spinning. There’s a bit of a shaking sound and I see the motor shimmy a bit, but it doesn’t turn. It’s drawing 2A, then drops off in a cycle - looks like is turning it on, then shutting down because of over current, then repeats every few seconds. Is this the motor, or is there something else like a stuck one way valve? I’ve tapped both the motor and the one way and nothing changed. Any definitive diagnosis or further tests that are worth trying?
Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Has anyone used Amsoil ATF in the hydraulic system? not sure what came out of my system that I drained.
Thanks
JD