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Coach 1429 2011- Have electric Southco latches.  2 bay doors have new latches (both sides) and still trip the fuse.  I know its only these 2 doors because if I leave them open and put a new fuse in I can operate all the other doors and engine bay lock/unlock with no malfunctions.  As soon as I close these doors the fuse trips.  So any ideas other than pulling the insulation off the inside and looking for back wires?  Would these 2 doors be on the same ground wire and have a short somewhere?
Anyone else have a problem like this?  I'm going to be taking the coach to Newell in the spring so might have to wait till then.  I can use the manual pull wires.

Thanks!

What does the aux compressor serve? I am trying to chase down a considerable leak. My HWH doesn't leak when I run the engine to air everything up. The aux will lose about 30psi in 6 min.

At the request of millions of … ok ok … a few people have asked that I provide instruction on proper slide operations.

Though Newells have a couple unique features, still, the principles are very common across many other slides. After all, VALID MFG is the maker of the Newell slides!

One little tip you’ll hear others say is, “Mind your gap!” Well, to see can happen if you don’t…I humbly present to you:

Newell Proper Slide Operations | Newell School

https://youtu.be/GOJEdhv3U8E

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a 2006/07 45’ Newell. Feel free to contact me either through message or call 928.486.7567. I’m located in Lake Havasu Az. Thank you. Regards, Mike

During the generator project I stumbled into a neat hack for copper sealing washers. They must be annealed if you are going to reuse them. Annealing is simple. Heat to dull red with a propane torch and dump into water. Softens them up so they seal.

I had struggled with getting the banjo bolts on the diesel engine to seal in the past, worrying that inwould over torques and break the bolt. 

No leaks this time and without excessive tightening

I have began to frantically remove anything that had fabric on it as my upholstery shop called me and was ready to take the job. So with everything stripped out I think I may have to visit the idea of having the walls repapered as the original wall paper is peeling. Perhaps a paper that has some kind of embossed geometrical design. Not sure... I did manage to modify a stainless steel mirror sourced from amazon by painting the backside white, adding blocks of wood to space it from the wall and finally adding flexible LED lights to the backside for a nice modern effect. We also settled on a floor choice. Next up is removing the dated bronze tint mirrors and replacing the counter tops with grey quartz. Been a busy last few days! Perhaps we may have this ready for June's gathering in Montana?

My wife and I are approaching retirement (really me, as she already is retired) and are very interested in buying a motor home to cruise the country part-time. We presently own a 51-ft pilothouse yacht, for which many of the systems are similar to a motor home, so we feel the transition will be easier in that regard.

I’ve been reading Facebook sites and other blogs learning about the overall industry. This research has led me to the conclusion that “production” motor homes (e.g. Newmar, Entegra, Tiffin, Forest River) are fundamentally flawed in their basic design methods, which is further magnified by their poor quality of workmanship. This has in turn led me to the conclusion that the only feasible solution is to buy either a Newell or Prevost coach due to their apparent significant build quality and workmanship advantage.

The ownership of a boat has certainly grounded me in the complexities of these vessels, for which a motor home is quite similar, and I have no illusions that things won’t break and the constant need for maintenance, but as cited above I believe the production motorhomes are fundamentally flawed in their initial design and further impacted by their poor quality or workmanship. I’ve actually been surprised by how well my boat is built (knock on wood), not that it doesn’t take an enormous amount of work to keep it running, but it’s been way more reliable than I ever expected. I generally “fix” it on my terms.

So my basic question is are Newell/Prevost coaches fundamentally better design and built than production motorhomes? If so, my thoughts are to buy an ~15-year old Newell/Prevost over a 2-3 year old production motorhome. I don’t mind working on/paying to maintain (and improve) my motorhome, but I don’t want something that is inoperable more than it’s operable.

Would really appreciate your insights.

Thanks,
Rick

This will probably be a multi installment read, so get a cup of joe or whatever. Hopefully you will enjoy. 

For about five years my generator engine would periodically produce black smoke, not grey, not white, black. That is usually a sign of incomplete combustion in a Diesel engine. Because our generators are oversized for most of how we use the coaches, the engine runs at partial load and has a tendency to build up carbon in the cylinders. The carbon build up can interfere with the valves sealing, or the piston rings sealing. Both conditions lead to low compression and black smoke. Also, the injector tips can foul from the carbon build up leading to poor atomization of the fuel. That too will cause black smoke. Other potential causes are air intake restrictions, exhaust restrictions, cold engine, low fuel pressure, and improper fuel injector pump timing. Can you already tell I noodled on this a long time? 

My usual fix was to load the generator as much as possible and “burn off” the carbon deposits. This worked a few times. I also tried every magic fluid out there as a fuel additive, sea foam, marvel mystery oil, acetone, ATF, and pee from an albino raccoon. None of it really helped in the long run. 

Did I say I was smoking and really wanted to stop? Did I say it was embarrassing to enter a campground and have onlookers ask if I was on fire? Did I say that this war on smoke became extremely personal the longer it continued. 

New air filters, fuel filters, turbo, and injectors ($$$$$) did not really help. As the years go by, the black smoke is no longer intermittent, now it’s all the time. The heavier the load on the gennie the worse the smoke is. 

So a deeper dive was on the list for winter projects. Someone is going to ask, how many hours on the gennie, 6000. 

A couple of other important points or clues. The engine did not use oil, not one pint in 100 hours between changes. The engine was quick to crank, even on really cold mornings. The engine did not struggle to make 50 amps on each leg. The engine ran smoothly, well as smoothly as a tractor engine runs. 

Given all that the first diagnostic is a compression test. Well this is interesting because hooking a compression tester up to a spark plug hole is not going to work. It’s even more complicated because none, including the Yanmar, commercially available testers I could find married up to the injector hole. Maybe one is out there, I just didn’t find it. So, I made one. I took one of the old injector bodies, welded ears on it to match the injector hold down screws, and gutted the inside. I hooked that up to a high pressure gauge with a check valve and pressure relief valve in the appropriate places. This first pic is of the home made compression tester. Second pic is of the modified injector to fit the injector hole. I sealed it to the bottom the injector hole with an o ring. 

The compression readings on a cold engine that had been sitting for a couple of months were around 300. Not terrible, but the Yanmar manual says it should be 350 or above. 

The next step was to remove the one way check valve on the compression apparatii, and use air pressure to do a crude leak down test on the cylinders. So I learned a few things here. One the piston of the cylinder you are going to test should be at top dead center. Ok, got that. Two, install a regulator on the air line feed. When you apply air pressure to the top of the cylinder, the crank WILL turn. It’s a 3.5 inch diameter piston, so 100 psig is 960 lbs force. It’s a bit hard to hold the breaker bar on the crankshaft for a wimp like me. Any Hoo, 100 psig was not necessary, for as soon as I applied air to the first cylinder, I heard a lot of air escaping into the exhaust manifold. Only way that happens is if the exhaust valve is not sealing. At this point, I didn’t do any more testing, because I knew the head would have to come off.

what is the first model yeah Newell installed DEF?

Thank you for allowing me into your group. My name is Mike and I live in Lake Havasu City, Az. I’m I looking to purchase a Newell P2000i- 2006/07, quad slide. Budget $300.000. Thank you again and Happy New Year!!!