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Just bought a 1991 266. Upgrading from a 1996 diesel Gulfstream that I bought 4 months ago, talk about an upgrade WOW, VW bug to Rolls-Royce.

It appears that my 1998 did not include a specific location for storing the sewer hose. 

As I got the coach it was just in a plastic tote in one of bays. 


Where do you keep your hoses?

Here is the deal. The throttle sticks open on my engine DD 8V92 Silver 475 hp). Started out intermittently but now it does it consistently. I first thought it was the cable from the air cylinder to the throttle lever. In fact it was sticky so I replaced it. Next my beautiful assistant operated the throttle pedal while i observed the engine with it not running. The lever operated full on to full off every time. Then I started the engine. When the throttle pedal was depressed the engine went to full rpm and would not return to idle when the pedal was released. I went back to the engine and the cable had released the throttle lever but the lever had not returned to idle. I easily returned it to idle manually. Is perhaps there a spring missing that pulls the throttle back? I am perplexed. I hope it is not a failing governor or the like. I am considering installing a spring return for the throttle. Cant drive it this way. Too much of a thrill!

A couple of days ago, preparing to leave campsite, the engine does not fire. It spins over just fine, just no fire. No hint of fire. Dead flat, like a pancake. This will induce anxiety in bridal unit in case you are wondering. 

Since the engine would turn over. I immediately ruled out key switch, and starter solenoids. There was a wee bit of wit of white unburned diesel wisp at the exhaust, so I thought it’s not fuel related. Another clue that it was probably a DDEC issue is that neither the ProDriver or VMSPc are showing any codes. 

I checked the following at the rear electrical panel. 12V at the ignition “on” terminal. 12Vdc at both the DDEC fuses. 

At this point I am puzzled, and a bit rattled. I am about to disconnect the DDEC and clean the connectors with carb spray. But first, I look in the passenger footwell for a blown fuse. All fuses are good, but I do see in the upper right hand corner a Bosch cube relay labeled DDEC. Swapped out the DDEC one for another one used for the high beam headlights. 

Vrrrrrrmmmmmmm!  Bride is happy, made check out time by one minute.

If you decide to lay in a store of those relays, look carefully. Some are single acting, and some are double acting. Stock both.

I have coach 1259, a 2009.  Does the air door exterior push button switch removal/replacement require any special tools?  Does it just pop out?  I ordered a new button from Newell.  Thanks in advance.

***Lowered Price***
1987 Classic (Fixer-Upper)


Custom built by Newell, this 40' diesel pusher sold originally for $336,000. We are the coach's third owner, having purchased and imported it into Canada from Texas in 2006. We stripped the entire interior of all furnishings and fixtures, cabinets and flooring, and repainted the Dusty Rose (pink) walls and sconces to a soothing off-white. Structural and functional refit included conversion of the two person dinette to a four-seater, a rebuild of the mid-entry steps and stairwell cover, and the rounded peninsula kitchen countertop and associated cupboards (upper and lower) were rebuilt with more storage and function in mind. Corian countertops replaced the mid-eighties-rage of Arborite in both the kitchen and bathroom.


This coach's unique attributes include a 3" raised roof, front to back, the impact which, in equivalent motor-home terms, is akin to adding a foot to ceiling heights within your home. Another noteworthy unique feature is the full-skin body, a very rare option from the day, that allowed the full-body paint scheme with no mid-coach break.


Engine - Detroit 8V92 - 475HP
Transmission - HT740 Allison 4 speed (fully rebuilt 1,600 miles ago)
Lift-up stair-well storage
Valuables combination safe (concealed)
Retro ice maker
Retro toaster

This vehicles has been stored outside for several years, unlicensed and not used.

It is offered for sale as-is, where is, in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

It requires: (at a minimum)
Safety inspection prior to licensing within its current jurisdiction, or an IN-TRANSIT license plate (easily obtained)
8 tires
Paint repair and clear-coat
Power inverter
Dashboard wiring completion


Asking $33,500

One more item to add to all the other things that need to be checked on a regular basis.

Over the past few months, when hooking up my towed vehicle, I noticed my rear directional turn signals on my towed vehicle was getting quite dim  The brake lights and running lights seemed fine, although I would have liked a bit more illumination. 

This past week when setting up for a move from South Carolina to Florida the turn signal lights finally stopped working completely. After checking all of the obvious suspects, I was unable to get them working again, however, the brake lights were working and seeing as this was a daytime drive and I needed to leave the RV park within the hour I headed out. Being careful along the way to limit my lane changes and add additional space when needing to lane change.

When I got to my destination I checked the turn signals and they were operating again however even dimmer then in the past. It occurred that this might be an umbilical related issue I tested the ohms between the 6 pin an 7 pin plugs. Sure enough one of the wires was showing about 30 ohms with the remaining between 0.2 and 0.8 ohms. Opening up the 7 pin connector showed everything was clean, as seen in the 1st photo below. The 6 pin however was heavily corroded (2nd photo) and it was evident why I was having a problem. 

I remembered that I had the towed vehicle wiring set up at a Phoenix RV repair facility. What they had done was take a 7 pin umbilical cord and replaced one end with a 6 pin plug. When they wired up the 6 pin plug they did not use any kind of sealant or corrosion mitigating techniques. Simply filling the connector with dielectric grease would have probably been enough to keep things from corroding. Considering the differing alloys present in the plug its no wonder the corrosion was so severe. Also the open end where the cable entered the plug faced towards the direction of travel and Being mounted on the top of the bumper it directed the rain and road sludge directly into the plug interior.

I replaced the corroded 6 pin plug, first tinning the wires before locking them down and then filling the plug interior with a non-corrosive silicone sealant. Hopefully this will eliminate all corrosion. 

Once again, I'm reminded that no one cares about the details as much as I do, and once again, I'm doing things twice correcting other peoples sloppy work.  However, each time I make some item on the coach proper, it does bring me that small step closer, if not perfection, to at least "good enough"

A Big hello to all the Gurus out and about having fun and living life.

Mike

                   

I'm on the hunt for a toad. 

Not really particular about what it is. 

Would like something all ready to go with base plate and braking system.

I'm in Flagstaff, about to deliver the coach to Arizona Luxury Coach for sale.   Just discovered that the dump hose is not on board - and I need to clear the tank.    Does anyone know an RV supply store in Phoenix that carries the Dupree twist-lock hose adapter?  


Thanks!
Chuck

hi all,

the air bag on my 02 is a firestone w01-358-8087

as we are all finding out, it is no longer made by firestone and is considered obsolete.  

it has a large threaded hole on the top plate of the airbag for the air inlet.  i am looking for the size fitting that goes in that inlet hole.  

i called firetone and they said it obsolete and not in the catalog...i knew that, because that is why i called them.  

they no longer have phone tech support.

i dont want to take it off to get the size.   anyone have it?

thanks

tom