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Does anyone have spare parts for the Mach 5 , I think the low pressure switch is bad and H H don't service my era. What its doing it pumps up and holds but when demand comes it won't respond . I unplug and reset open all valves it runs as I turn off everything it holds pressure till I open faucet.

Gurus,

My AH will fire up on diesel and run for a while but will then shut down with the light over the galley turned off.

I called Rudy @"Trainer" and he said it sounded like a photo detector to him.  

The troubleshooting is relatively straight forward.   

1) With the burner firing, measure the voltage on the black wire on the “C” connector.  Compare that to the green wire on the ‘C’ connector.   The green wire is the voltage coming from the photo eye.  It should be fairly close to the voltage on the black wire and remain steady.  My black wire was at 12.4 volts and the green wire started at 10VDC but then started dropping as the burner got warmer.  Looks like a bad photo-eye.

2) The other way to test the photo eye is to remove burner and disconnect the photo eye.  Measure the resistance on the photo eye with the photo eye exposed to a bright light and to total darkness.

For bright light you are looking for less than 200 Ohms
With the light blocked you are looking for more than 100K Ohms.

My photo eye measured 80 Ohms in light (good) and 45K Ohms in darkness (not good).

So I will be contacting Rudy to get him to send me a photo eye.

Will post more when I get it installed and it works.

Cheers,
Bill

I was heading north on I-15 Friday afternoon 8/13/21, somewhere south of Butte. I think I spotted a cream and teal Newell followed a few miles later by a tan and dark, both south bound both with toed's. Both I think were the smiley face front ends.


In all these 1100 miles since I took off from Phoenix, I think these are the only Newell coaches I've seen. 

Cheers.

Been working for a week on diesel last night wouldn't fire of diesel. Will heat off electricity. Temp gage in the galley on electricity has leveled out at 206. 

So what do I do to start the trouble shooting on the Webasto side of the hot box?


Some background, at the dealer when taking delivery. Two repairs one was a fuse 30a and the other I was told was a thermostat. It has been working for the last week and a half since the thermostat replacement off the diesel side.


206 seams high.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4YSV9BLiRw

Newell has added their new N1 system that controls all lights, shades, etc. James Neatherry, VP of Engineering, gives a walk through of the new system. It eliminates 12 volt fuses and can reset any circuit from the bay or over the drivers side. It replaces the manual light switches at each location throughout the coach with either a 7" or 5" touchscreen that simulates the switches previous used. The screens are in the same locations as the previous switch panels so there are a bunch of them. This system has been used in marine applications for the past 3 years.

I was running the Genset (Kohler 20KW) yesterday and noticed the dash gauge showed it was about 250 and though this was odd.  We were sitting outside the storage building in the 90 degree heat running both A/Cs on the low setting.  The Genset did not shut down but I turned it off.  I’m suspecting the thermostat may be allowing it to get too hot - I found a thread that showed to check the temps at the thermostat and will do that this afternoon.  
I ordered a new air filter and may change out the oil but not sure what viscosity to use (15W-40 I think is in it now from about a year ago - we don’t use it very much, it has around 2500 hours on it).  We are planning a trip to TX and don’t want to run without a genset. 
I’m also suspect of the airflow from the squirrel cage blower - the blower motor and squirrel cage are working fine but not sure about the air flow - how can I test this (or is ‘hurricane’ strength as Tom put it so eloquently) good enough?  
Are there other things I can check? I was thinking of just changing the T-stat, water pump, hoses, belt, oil, all filters just for maintenance sake and don’t mind spending the $ on it… any idea of part numbers?  I’ve got the filter/belt numbers but not for the T-stat and water pump…

Gurus,

I think I am the first to have an basement AC SCS control board burn up with the external relay fix already implemented.

Right now, I am in the early stages of investigation but here are the highlights so far.

I have been away from the coach for a couple of weeks.   I found that the front AC was not running.   Checking the breaker showed that the #1 circuit of the front AC was tripped.   I foolishly simply tried to reset the breaker and it acted weirdly.  After a couple of tries it reset and stayed that way.  (I will talk about this more down below).

I went to the AC unit and pulled off the metal cover where the control board is.

Here is what I found:
   

Note the burned spot in the upper left corner where the AC for the #1 circuit enters the board.

I turned off both breakers to the front AC unit and removed the board:
           

It’s clear that there was a melt down on the AC connector.  Also, the board seems to have already been repaired since one of the traces has been beefed up.

Here is where it gets weird….

The bottom white connector where the #2 circuit enters the board was also loose!!!!  (Like barely hanging on) but there was no visible scoring from arcing. 

Newell has a company that is manufacturing replacement boards for the old SCS AC units.   They are pretty pricy at around $700…. But they are much more robust than the original SCS boards.

   

So…what caused the board to melt?  In my mind there are two possible scenarios.
1) The white connectors had bad solder joints and just gave up.  This caused heat to build up and eventually catch fire.   
2) Either of the fan motors are pulling more amps than they should and the excess current burned the board.

Remember that I already have the external relays so any excess draw from the compressors will be protected by the breaker in the breaker panel.

Since the current for the fan motors still goes through the board, I attempted to troubleshoot them.  I measured the resistance of the wires that go to the evaporator blower (inside) and condenser fan (outside).   Here are the results:

EVAP
C - L (red to white) 6.0 Ohms
H - L (Red to black) 2.6 Ohms
H - C (Black to white) 3.4 Ohms

Condenser
C - L (red to white) 8.0 Ohms
H - L (Red to black) 4.1 Ohms
H - C (Black to white) 4.1 Ohms

All wires showed open between the wire and the chassis.  

My amateur view of these readings say that the motors look good.   No shorts, and no opens.  It looks to me that the SCS board just decided that life was too hard and self destructed.

My plan is to install the Newell version and then measure the current draw on the fans motors as well as the compressors.   I will keep ya’ll posted on the results.

Cheers,
Bill

Ps.  About the breaker.  I should not have tried to reset the breaker until I at least looked in the wiring box of the AC unit.  I know that breakers fail….but if I had it to do over, I would not have been so quick to reset.   It only took a couple of minutes to get into the wiring box and find the burned wire.

1986 40' Newell Coach, Looking for someone to give her some love. I haven't use her for a while. I really want to see it get used. Message me.. We can work out something.. Property sold... I will sell or trade maybe.. Located 20877 zip code

NOOB here. Where is the engine oil fill port? 

Coach 484 D60



I did search but nothing pooped up. Not even sure what other terms or phrases I might search to find this answer. 


Cheers.

Has anyone found a supplier for the air seals for the slide outs besides Newell?

Wondering if we could get one for the bedroom slide without having to buy the large one and cutting it down like Newell wants us to do.

Thanks for any help you can give us!!