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We are parked along side of side street. Power steering went out and radiator cooling fan. No overheat, but fluid is everywhere starting at Hyd motor for radiator cooling fan. Series 60.  As soon as I can get some fluid in it the leak will be more obvious. Anyone ever had to pulling the hyd motor for a front seal? Looking for anyone who has had this issue.

Asking Price: $390,000.00

This 2005 Newell has a mid-entry air door and is a Quad Slide! Powered by a Detroit Series 60 engine with total coach miles of 29,000 miles!! Features an Allison 6 speed automatic transmission, computerized air leveling a 20KW generator.

The interior boosts lots of living space with the quad slides extended. A 46” LCD TV with in motion satellite and full surround sound in the front living room, a sofa as well as a reclining chair offer plenty of space to stretch out and relax. There is also a writing desk with file storage for those who need to continue to work on the road! Customized designed carpet all throughout the coach. The dinette features wrap around seating. The galley has a two burner cook top, dishwasher, convection oven, sub-zero refrigerator and lots of storage and pantry space.

The rear bedroom features a queen sized murphy bed. It allows for lots of extra space when the bed is not in use. There is also a full size sofa, 32” TV with DVD player. The rear bath is large and spacious and offers his and hers sinks, large shower and a tecma toilet.

A must see!! With only 29,000 original miles this coach still looks brand new!! Call today for more information or to schedule a tour.


THE COACH HAS THE FOLLOWING:

• Detroit Diesel
  
• Allison 6 Speed Automatic
  
• Steerable tag axle
  
• Generator (20KW)
  
• Michelin Tires
  
• All Components Recently Serviced
  
• Inspection Included
  

First, many of you know I am constantly in search of the self driving coach. 
Second, I am NOT recommending how to set the air pressure in your tires. 
Third, tire pressure is a highly opinionated subject, and I am not trying to change yours. 
Fourth, this applies to the wide 365 tires, you may not have any flexibility with pressures with other size tires and coaches. 

I want to tell you about an experiment I ran, and the results. I have consistently run my front tires 10 to 15 psi above the minimum inflation pressure recommended in the Michelin inflation tables. I have weighed the coach three times fully loaded and fully wet, so I am pretty confident about my axle weights. 

I have been processing several observations over the years which led me to this experiment. One, my coach required significantly less steering correction if the road surface was heavy as opposed to glass smooth. Two, I am aware that more castor (increasing the trail) of an axle results in the tire wanting to self correct and go straight. That is true, but with caveats, too much castor and the coach is hard to turn/ Too much castor can result in the front wheel acting like a shopping cart and giving shimmy in the steering wheel. Three, in reading a engineering text on suspension design, there is engineering reference made to the drag of the tire generating a pseudo castor in the system. 

A ha ! That’s why the rough surface made the coach track better. So let’s use a bicycle fork as the example because that is easier to visualize. The castor is the angle of the fork compared to vertical. So if you draw a line through the fork, that line will intersect the ground in front of where the tire touches the ground. That distance between where the imaginary line intersects the ground and the tire contact patch produces enough force to keep the tire in line. Proven by all who have ridden a bike no hands. Now the more rolling resistance the tire has, the more force it will generate to keep the steering in line. 

Sorry for dragging you through that, but the explanation puts the experiment in perspective. 

I started out with my steer tires 10 psi higher than the minimum inflation in the Michelin truck tire tables. I used an IR gun to measure their temperatures during a multiday drive across the sweltering Midwest. Each morning I would lower the tire by 3 psi, drive all day, and measure the tire temp at each stop. I was comparing the steer tire temp to the drive tire temp. I drive 65 mph, never faster for any significant time.  I finally reduced the pressure to the recommended minimum inflation level. I did not detect any rise in the tire temp at all compared to the drive tire temp. I DID detect an appreciable increase in straight line stability, and a decrease in steering wheel correction. I further detected better stability in cross winds. I cannot put a number to it, but it is appreciable to me. I did not detect any decrease in the harshness of expansion joints or potholes, so lowering the tire pressure by 10 psi did not soften the ride. 

Again, I am not suggesting you do this. After all, I do not know how you are loaded or how fast you drive. If you are intrigued by this, and want to see how your rig responds, I strongly recommend you know your weights, and you evolve into a lower pressure while monitoring the temperature of the tires. And in NO WAY am I suggesting that you go below the minimum inflation pressures listed in the inflation tables supplied by your tire manufacturer.

Something occurred to me late in the diagnostic procedure for a really hot brake incident, that I thought I would pass on. It sounds SO......simple, but in the heat (no puns) of the moment, it didn’t occur to me initially. If you suspect a dragging brake, jack the wheel up and turn by hand. Duh huh.

Here is what happened. Over the winter I did all the brakes, including new rotors on the front. I am pretty conscientious about using the jakes to hold the speed on a grade somewhat below the speed limit because that prevents the emergency braking system that sits in the passenger seat from activating. 

But just for grins on a long grade in Montana, I decided to see what slowing the coach down a long grade without the jakes would be like. So, I used the brakes a good bit. When we hit the bottom I smelled the characteristic hot brake smell. OK, no biggie I thought. But it continued for over ten miles until I could find a safe place to pull off. The left front brake was wisping smoke. And as I watched the wisp grew. To be safe, and not burn the coach to the ground, I gave it a shot from the fire extinguisher. Smoke went away. I cribbed the front, and crawled under. The caliper moved a bit when coerced by a long screwdriver. I wasn’t quite sure what was happening. The navigator said there is a truck pull off in two miles, so I decided to limp there for further detective work. We made it, and the brake was not smoking upon arrival nor was there any smell. I pulled the caliper pins with the 14mm hex tool, and both were slick, lubed, and showed no signs of seizing. They came out by hand. But I still was not sure if I had a problem or not. Then the bone simple idea hit me. Jack it up, and turn by hand. OK, no resistance from the brakes at all.

We have driven about 700 miles since then with plenty of brake application. I have checked the rotors with the IR gun at each rest stop and they read within a few degrees of one another which give me confidence that the problem was transient, although I will keep a close eye on it. 

Two things to note. One, the temp sensors in my TPMS did NOT show any difference from side to side while driving. However once stopped, the temp sensor showed a 50 degree increase on the sticking side after we sat on the side of the road for 20 minutes. I suppose it took some time for the heat to transfer from the disc to the wheel, through the stem, to the transmitter. Second, there was NO pull when taking hands off the wheel to indicate a stuck caliper on one side. There is also no pull when hard braking. 

I don’t know what happened and I wish I did. My speculation is that this was the first time the new brake pads had seen significant heat, and something came out of the brake pad and lodged itself against the rotor. I won’t be able to prove that until I take the tire off and pull the pads. Unless I have another issue, I won’t do that until I get home.

I am in search of the movable-heavy table/console that goes between the driver and passenger seat?
Any one have any idea who might have one they would part with?
I asked at Newell, they said $3000.00....  that is pretty unreasonable to me.

Also our previous coach #263 1991, had a "Buddy Seat" on the passenger side, it was probable 1/2 again wider then the air ride passenger seat we presently have in our 2006 #769.
I have asked and looked lots of places about  the wider one.... any one have any ideas?

Where do any of you more experienced travelers find your replacement seats?
The passenger seat has a blown air bag and the drivers seat is just plumb worn out. I have been to some of the Truck supply places but they mostly have Black, Gray or cloth seats.
I am searching for the nice leather in the soft tan color.

We were westbound on I-70 mm#149 in Illinois and I went by 2 Newells eastbound that looked like they were traveling together with a SOB tag axle traveling between them. It was only the 2nd time I've seen another Newell on the road. It was the vintage coach just before ours. We just went out to Saratoga Lake and Lake George in NY to visit kids and grandkids. We purchased our coach last August and it handles so nice and is so much fun to drive.

If that was anyone on this forum heading east today we'd love to hear from you. Safe Travels!

Hi All,

I just noticed yesterday that I had a slow drip coming from the very front, middle of the coach. Extended the generator and noticed hydraulic drops all along the slide ram.

Where we're at, our leveling has the front of the coach practically touching dirt, so I can't get very far under the coach to assess much more, but it is my belief at this point that either the ram is leaking or one of the hoses.

I'd like to cap and plug off the generator ram so that we don't drop a bunch of fluid every time we put the slides in or out until we can get it fixed. But I'm having trouble identifying which lines from the manifold are for the generator ram.

We're HWH and have 2 slides (flat floor salon and non-flat floor bedroom) plus the generator slide.

Our manifold has the 12 of the older T handle solenoids split across 2 connected manifolds. I presume 6 for front slide (EXTEND, RETRACT, LOCK, UNLOCK, FLOOR UP, FLOOR DOWN), 4 for rear slide (no FLOOR), and then 2 for generator EXTEND and RETRACT.

I've tried looking at all of the labels that are still attached to find the solenoids for the generator, but rather than being labelled as the generator slide, I have 3 ROOM EXTEND, ROOM RETRACT pairs.

The HWH docs don't show a diagram for this configuration. They just show a config for 10 solenoids / 2 rooms. Their diagram shows the flat floor as the lower manifold and the bedroom as the top. I'm assuming that the generator option just replaces the top with another 6 solenoid manifold and that the generator slide is on the end, but I don't want to get caught out by a bad assumption.

I'm also trying to figure out the hoses -- which is my ultimate goal, of course, so I can cap/plug the hose and manifold. There are only 3 hoses on the back of each manifold block. From the HWH docs, it looks like the cap end comes into the back of the manifold and the rod end comes in the top or side. What's odd to me is that my lower manifold only seems to have 2 rod end lines coming back into it.

And lastly, are these all JIC 1/4" ID hydraulic connectors?

Hello all. 

Total NOOB here. 

I'm in the process of buying coach 484. It would be my first self propelled RV. 

I'm looking to half time in the coach during the height of the arctic season of Alaska, you know from January to June and from July to December. 


Cheers. 

Safe travels.

The C-15 Cat has intake valve actuators with an associated oil pressure sensor.  Apparently failure of the oil pressure sensor is a common problem and results in the "check engine" light illuminating on the driver's panel.

By turning on the ignition, turning off the cruise control and depressing and holding the set or resume button of the cruise control the "check engine" light will flash.  By counting the number of flashes a two digit fault code will be generated.  For instance nine flashes brief pause five flashes = 95, the fault code for the intake valve actuator oil pressure voltage fault.  The codes can be found listed in the Caterpillar Operation and Maintenance Manual or online.

Has a guru with a C-15 Cat run into this problem?  Facing the engine the sensor is on the driver side at the top of the block behind an air conditioning compressor and ahead of the turbos.  On ours well obscured up by surrounding equipment.  
Did you replace with OEM or aftermarket part?

Sensor Cat Part #2842728
O-ring Cat Part #2147567

   

I have a small piece of trim missing from the Passenger side, in front of the drive wheel arch.

Is this something I can find or is it Newell only? I can easily fix the arch itself, it's just fiberglass, but the trim looks more onerous.

See below:

Thank you!