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Gurus,

This may be a long post so here is the short version for folks with limited attention spans:   2000ish vintage coaches use a series of relays along with automatic reset DC circuit breakers to control the ignition and starting.   A high current short not related to the ignition can cause breakers to trip which can shut down the engine....sometimes while driving the coach!   The breakers did their job in protecting the wire...but the side effects were weird and not obvious.   Read on to hear the story along with a few thoughts and lessons learned.

There is an old guru adage:  When you hear hoof beats behind you...you should think horses instead of zebras.  In other words before you jump to a complex cause to the issue you are having you should rule out the simple / obvious causes first.   In my case...not only was it NOT HORSES....It was not even plain zebras...in fact what ended up causing my issue was multicolored unicorn zebras!   

Here is the setup....  I have had (every once in a while) a problem where I would turn the key and nothing would happen.  No lights on the dash, no cranking noise....nothing.   A few more tries and the coach would eventually act like nothing happened and the coach would start.  A guru friend helped me find and fix a loose wire going to one of the relays under the passenger kick panel a month ago or so.    Coach started and the problem was solved!   In the words of Coach Corso......Not so fast!  

The issue came back with a vengeance.  I was driving along and had been on the road for about 3 hours on a warm day.   At a stoplight...the coach died.  Turn the key....nothing happens.   Oh great I thought.   I turned on the flashers and got ready to start troubleshooting.   I had beens stopped for maybe 30 seconds when I tried to crank the coach.   It worked!   Off I go.

Five minutes down the road, the coach died again.  This time while I was at speed.  I dove for the shoulder which turned out to be flat and clear.   I turned on the flashers and started troubleshooting.   I found the wire that my guru friend had helped me with had come unsoldered.   Hmmmm.   No worries!   I simply replaced the spade connector going to the cube relay with a fresh spade connector.   Reinstalled the cube relay and off we went.   Or so I thought.

Five minutes later, the coach died again while driving.   I again found the shoulder and started troubleshooting.    I found that the relay that I had been fooling with the wiring on was rather warm.   Hmmmmm.    My guess is that the loose wire had caused heat to build up which failed the relay.  No problem I thought....I will simply replace the relay.  That got me going again.  I said to myself....OK....THAT SHOULD DO IT.   IM FINALLY FIXED.

I got the RV park I was going to only to have the coach die again while I was putting the slides out.  Arghhhhh.

This time the coach really did not want to start.   I even tried to use the starter switch in the back near the engine.  That did not work either.  

About this time a guru who shall remain unnamed, called me to offer his support and extended a generous offer to buy the coach for a heavily discounted price.   I was so frustrated that I almost took the offer on the spot.   But like my dad always told me....never make important decision in the heat of the moment.  I told him I would think about it and let him know.   

If you are still reading...let me summarize.   The coach will sometimes not start and other times will die while you are driving along.   The engine runs smooth and strong when it works and when it doesn't it is just like you turned the key off.

I called Newell support and an electrician got on the phone.   He suspected that I was having an over-current situation and that breakers were opening up.  He turned out to be right.  He asked if I had a clamp on DC ammeter.  (I did).       . This is similar to mine (Fluke 374FC).   First we found high current in the exact same wire that I replaced!   I don't remember exactly but it was more than 20 amps DC.

He then told me to go back to the terminal block at the engine and we found high current on terminal 4.   There were 4 orange wires tied down and we used the ammeter to figure out which one was drawing current.   When I removed that wire, the coach cranked like there had never been an issue.  It was quitting time, so I told the Newell tech that I could figure out what the wire went to.

So what do I mean by "breakers"?   It turns out that this vintage of newell uses a boat-load of resettable breakers similar to this:     . These breakers protect similarly to a fuse but reset themselves when the current draw is removed.

Have you figured it out yet?  What was causing the problem?   

In another post, I found where my hydraulic fan control solenoid had failed and gotten melty.  This caused a dead short. whenever the fan was called on to operate.   This is why I could drive five minutes and then suddenly the engine died.  It turns out that somehow the fan was powered through the ignition circuit.   In other words, the fan has power whenever the engine is on.   (It is controlled by an elaborate set of relays in the bay next to the engine).    When the fan was supposed to come on...the ignition breaker saw enough current for it to open up which is why the coach died as if I had turned off the key. Update: A guru friend (also a real Electrical Engineer) pointed out that the voltage to the solenoid is removed when the fan is supposed to run so this part is probably not correct.   What IS true is that the fan circuit was drawing waaay more current that it was supposed to.  It occurs to me that there could be some sort of time-lag or maybe even a faulty breaker that only works when it wants to.  Either way, the coach has driven about 12 hours without a repeat of the issue.

Replacing the solenoid and the associated valve along with the melty wires seems to have fixed the issue.  

Lessons learned:
1).  A clamp on DC ammeter is your friend.   I would never have found the solution without one.
2).  Breakers can trip with NO EXTERNAL INDICATION.   If you find an electrical problem  that comes and goes...you might want to check the breakers.   Often times a breaker will feel warm to the touch if it has failed.   In my case I found where breakers had voltage on one post but not the other....this is a sure giveaway that the breaker had tripped.  Remember that the breaker will reset if you remove the current....this made me think I was going crazy.
3).  The little Bosch cube relays that Newell uses come in different flavors with 4 or 5 pins.   The pins can be in the right location but have the wrong function.   Double check the little numbers on the pin side and make sure they are the same.  Also, these relays have a maximum current rating.  The auto reset breakers may or may not open in time to save a relay from damage.   Keep extra relays in your spare cabinet.
4).  Keep an eye out for loose and melty connectors and wires.   I think that my issue goes back months and I fault myself for not noticing the wires going to the fan controller were getting hot.  
5).  Remember that when you hear hooves behind you...think horses....except when they are multicolored unicorn zebras.

I have a burned pin on a HWH electronic board. When power goes to this pin, my coach goes to ride height. I've attached two photos. One photo shows the back of the board and you can see where 1 of the 4 pins has gotten hot and looks slightly burned. The other photo shows my finger touching an orange connector. This connector goes on the 4 pins and you can see the darkened right side of the pin where it has overheated. 

My electrical skills are fairly good, but I don't have much experience with boards like this. So, here is what I'm thinking:
1. I don't think the board is burned too badly (although i haven't removed the connector yet and I might find out otherwise)
2. My thought is I can probably remove the connector
3. Put a new connector on the wire(s).  THIS IS A PROBLEM as I don't know where to get this connector and it looks like it may take a special device to attach a wire to this connector.  (I sent email to HWH hoping to get one of these, but they never responded)
4. Clean the existing pin
5. Connect new connector to board.


Item #3 is the problem.  (Although I welcome any other thoughts if you think I'm going to have trouble with the board).  Where can I get a connector like this and am I going to need a special tool to attach it to the wires? It didn't occur to me when I had the board loose and was looking at it, but is it possible there is a cap on the top of this connector that just pushes the wire down into the pin, and therefore doesn't require a tool?  

Thanks for your thoughts!

Hi there,
I recently joined the site to gain knowledge about Newell Coach's as I am slowly starting to shop for one.  I have owned a deisel pusher coach in recent years but sold it due to lack of use.....I still have kids just finishing up school so leaving for long periods was not an option.  I'd like to get back into traveling with a coach and I want to purchase a well built one, not another production line build.  So my question is, are there any year(s) that a person should be aware of that were prone to issues or problems?  Before I buy I will edjucate myself so there will likely be more questions.
Thanks
Devin

My Aqauhot heating system is blowing cold air from some of the Zones.  The Zones blowing cold eventually blow hot after several hours.  Only part of them, one or two, blow cold at any one time.

There is always one that is blowing hot.

I need to get this figured out ASAP as the temps here are in the low 20's.

It's not the antifreeze level.  It is full and holding since I put the. Roger Berke filler neck on.  I also have Hot water at the faucets.  So I think I can rule out the boiler.

The thermostats are calling for heat and turning on the blowers, but evidently no heated antifreeze is circulating through the radiator.

I replaced the aquahot relays a couple of months ago.

I'm running the Aquahot on electric and diesel when it's this cold.

Any ideas?????

Cummins ISX, Allison, quad slide, heated ceramic tile flooring except bedroom which is carpet. COMING SOON to Newell

https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

I'm sure this has been discussed but I think I want to replace front wheel bearings and seals, changing up to the oil seals.
Are the bolt patterns the same for the oil reservoir type caps??
Any other pitfalls to watch for?
Someone have the part # for the seal?
Its time to pack bearings so good time to swap (maybe)
Thanks, Mark

Just found this on Facebook Newell owners group. 2002 quad slide. Built for Jeff Burton. No price listed but she is a beauty.

(4) Newell Coach Owners Group | Facebook

Good luck

Getting ready to purchase a tow bar, vehicle tow bracket, and accessories to tow my 2015 Subaru Forester.  Will be using an M & G brake system.

My question is will the height of the receiver hitch on the Newell line up ok with the height of the connection points on the Subie?  I know the Newell's and the towed vehicles heights vary, but hearing others experiences and setups will be interesting.

I ask because the Demco Excalibar tow bar is adjustable up and down and the others aren't w/o a receiver hitch raise/lower adapter if a height adjustment is needed.  And the Demco only adjust up and down 1.5 inches which may not be enough anyway.

I'm looking at the 10,000 lb plus rated tow bars which is overkill for the Subie but gives me the flexibility to tow a heavier vehicle in the future.

So I was taking the classic south for leid Diesel to perform pm work on the motor in PA. & Started the coach on a 45 degree day. Fluids were all good when i started her however she ran on 3 or 4 cylinders for 30 seconds then came into it. I idled her for about 20 minutes and shut her down. Went back yesterday and she wouldn't turn over. checked radiator sight and was low.....took 9 gallons/oil was contaminated....better in my driveway than on vacation I guess....
Need to tow her but she is nose in  how do I air up suspension and turn off brakes? 
Does the engine slide out on rails like a bus? (1983)
Leid can do a reman silvertop and it seems like a good time to move to a 6 speed allision which they have in stock....

Just need to find a shop who can do the swap in Nh or southern/Western Maine
Any suggestions welcome

Quad slide, bath and a half, wood flooring, https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory