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Hi all, so just noticed something strange. Up to now we have had no issues watching the tv with the inverter on. We were in the coach last night and none of the TV's would come on. I checked to make sure the inverter was on (switch above micro). It was but I Sent ahead and flipped of and back on. Still no TV. So I Sent and checked the inverter itself and It was powered on. Fast forward to today. I was plugged in to shore power and all of the TV s function properly.So I Sent back over to the  inverter switch and flipped it on. As soon as I did this, the TV's shut off. I don't know much about inverters but this does not seem right. inverter

any ideas,

Merry Christmas

Newell goes through the process of creating your dream Newell with Andrew Steele

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2vVy0b5yK8

HELP
Trouble started as follows 
1-GIRARD awning would not extend
2-Aquahot  coolant low (found overflow tube
Leaking, used JB weld to repair) I topped off with coolant, pressure tested and turned Aquahot electric side on
And went home
3-the next morning I went back to check things I found a breaker tripped (it was labeled 
Front AC) I reset breaker.....and all heck broke loose
The gen started (all by its self...does not have auto start)
4- i went outside to look over and found wiring on aquahot on fire. I extinguished flames
And then found I couldn’t stop gen. I then pulled out the unit and started trying to remove
Wiring from starter .... but before I could get wires pulled the starter was smoking.
It was a BAD day

After looking over things I decided we needed a new Aquahot and new gen starter
I have tested/checked everything I can think of ...SO I called Newell
Is now in their shop the aqua has been pulled and shipped to MFG for repairs 
The gen set has a new starter BUT will not it start...no power to starter

I think some how AC and DC power got crossed (gen started when breaker reset)
 Newell guys say that can’t happen .....I think it DID

I need ideas.....think about it....what screwed up

George

Dean Loucks son, Ryan, pairs with Newell as graphic designer for exterior paint designs. Dean currently does all the Liberty Coach work.
https://www.newellcoach.com/blog/ryan-lo...gns--29957

Any suggestions on which one to buy? I searched on here and couldn't find anything for the older coaches that anyone is using.

For anyone looking for a coach, this photo was posted by Premium Coach Group earlier, today. They have a number of incoming Newells, among others, in case you want to get a jump on things.

I have this inside the bay with water pump and Aqua-Hot. I hear air continuously hissing from this. Is it some sort of solenoid? I don't know what it does. Any ideas of what it does?

My coach has a 1 5/8" front sway bar that attaches on the bottom of the front of the A-arms.  In the last two months I hit something, pot hole or??????, and it badly disfigured the left sway bar mount where it attaches to the left A-arm.      

Newell uses sway bars & mounts manufactured by Roadmaster Inc.  They don't sell directly, but their products are available on etrailer.com.  These are the part numbers for the repair I purchased from etrailer.com.

The bracket part number is RM140
The bushing part number is RM205222-10

   

No affiliation, just passing on what seems like a good deal.  Anyone know the unit #?  history?  just curious
https://orlando.craigslist.org/rvs/d/mas...48189.html

Gurus,

I have had a recurring problem with the ignition key and starting the coach.  Sometimes...(not always)...I would turn the key and nothing would happen.   Coach didn’t crank or start....nothing.  After a few more tries, it would start as always.

When I was at Newell, they looked into the problem and said that sometimes wires will push out of the relay blocks located under the passenger kick panel.   They fiddled with the wires and seemed to clear the problem.   But after a few days it came back.

   

I finally found the culprit.   There are several relays that work together to first “turn on” the dash and then to start the engine.  Visual inspection followed by wiggling each of the relays identified the culprit relay.  On the guilty relay, a wire had gotten hot and was slightly pushed out of the relay block.   What was happening is that the spade on the relay was just touching a large gauge push on connector within the block.  Heat had obviously built up and was causing problems.

The fix is to remove the connector from within the block.  (Use a sharp probe from the relay side of the block to release the connector).  Replace the connector and reinsert into the block.

So far it is working.