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]$338 lesson, Hopefully I can save somebody else this problem.

This oil separator mounted in the engine bay passenger side of my model, in my opinion now, does not need to be changed. I like to keep things fresh and ready for foul weather, hot or cold and I thought I would change this filter. It was very tight, but I just thought I didn't eat my Wheaties. I got it off and decided to put better air line fitting on at the same time. 

The Filter has a drain, use it. mine would not open easily, but once open, it had nothing.

Here is the problem as I see it.

The filter, steel body, is threaded onto a Aluminum manifold and thread. Mine was over tighten and did not have "never seize" added to the thread.
As I reexamined the manifold most of my threads were missing. I can't take the chance of the filter popping off or leaking while traveling so I replace the whole assembly. I tried looking for the whole unit online. I gave up and contacted Newell and had it in 3 days.
                           


PS, not sure what I did to change font size on some and not other parts of the post. (Font size fixed-Admin)

Quad slide, bath and a half, mid entry, heated tile floors throughout. Bedroom projection TV can be set to display inside the coach or outside the coach through the window.

https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...wInventory

Hello everyone,

So I have a LOT of various dilemmas right now in glorious Yoakum, TX. One of those dilemmas is my driver’s side will not raise while in Travel mode.  I can raise it manually from the panel just fine. When I raise it up and then go into travel mode, driver’s side sinks back down.  I can see the armature for the HCV and it is very obvious that it’s getting pushed correctly by its distance to frame.  Since travel mode allows the HCV to exhaust air from the bags I believe the travel solenoid is operating properly.  

The way I understand the HCV is as follows:  Supply air flows into the Inlet on the HCV. The “delivery” side of the HCV connects to the appropriate travel solenoid. When the travel solenoid is energized it allows air to pass freely from the related bag tanks to the HCV. This connection between solenoid and HCV allows the Valve to directly adjust bag pressure mechanically at the HCV.  When the solenoid is not energized, the HCV can’t get air into or out of the bags. 

This makes me think that inside the driver side HCV, the dump side is stuck open. Allowing the air to flow back out at the same speed it goes in.  Is there a way to really confirm this?  I’ve been stationary for about 3 weeks and this wasn’t an issue before now. I’ve got a road service guy coming next week to change out my rear and tag air bags. I’d like to have what I need in hand to get going again. I have a couple of weeks before I head to Atlanta for work.  Since I’m full time, old 419 needs to go with me.

I purchased a new tow vehicle, so I will sell my current tow vehicle for what the dealer offered me as a trade in.  The new car is on order, so my vehicle will be available in early April.  Price is $20,500.   Vehicle is at Bella Terra in Alabama.

Vehicle is a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with less than 35,000 miles.  4 wheel drive.  3.6L 293 HP V6 engine.  8 speed transmission.  Black leather interior.  Heated seats and steering wheel.   Rear heated seats too.  Floor mats.  Sun roof.  Keyless entry and remote start.  Weathertech cargo liner.  New Michelin tires-September of 2020.  I have all service records since new, owner's manual & sticker.  Everything works!  A little sandblasting from towing.  No dents or body damage.  Car is charcoal gray.

It has a Blue Ox baseplate, that can be adapted to a roadmaster tow bar and tow lights.  Very easy to tow!

For more info or to speak email me at [email protected]

Coming soon to the Newell website but Andrew Steele gives us a walk-through with Josh Snider, Sales Rep with Newell Coach at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_rXrYnVukA

I pulled a few screen shoots off the video for your early viewing pleasure. 

   

   

   

Gurus,

My coach and I tend to stay south in the winter months but have found ourselves at the mother-ship in February and wanted to share with you a few thoughts that I have had about cold weather operations.   Those gurus in the north country will find this kinda “well duh”...but I wanted to share to help the next warm blooded person.   

It is currently 19f and forecasts say it is going down to single digit temps tonight with a strong wind chill.
   

Feel free to chime in and offer your own cold weather tips....

1).  Diesel fuel does not like to be cold.  In fact in temperatures below 32f the fuel will start to turn cloudy and at 17f and below it can actually start gelling.  Obviously this is not going to work very well.   You can add anti-gelling agents to the fuel which lower the gelling temperature to near zero degrees.

If you buy quality fuel (think big name truck stops)...it will come with the anti gelling additives.   The truck stops start adding the additives in the fall and stop adding them in the spring.  

In my case, I fueled up on the way up to Oklahoma at a Loves truck stop.   I tested some of the fuel from my fuel filter and it stays clear and liquid down to 0 degrees (using my kitchen freezer)  See picture.  The dark spots are rusty water that the filter separated from the fuel. 
   

2).  Drain water from fuel system.   Most of our coaches have a Davco fuel filter.  The device also removes water from the fuel.   If the water freezes in the fuel filter...game over.   On the bottom of the fuel filter mechanism is a petcock.   If you put a bucket under the petcock and open it, fuel will drain from the filter mechanism....part of the fuel will be water.  When I purposely froze the fuel in my freezer...the brown stuff turned solid while the fuel stayed clear.   Before you go into really cold weather...drain your fuel filter.

If your filter freezes or you end up with a waxy build up in your filter you will need to change your filter.  Be sure to have spare filters and a small supply of clean diesel fuel or ATF fluid so you can refill the bowl when you change the filter.

3).  While driving....turn on your diesel Aquahot burner.   In really cold weather, the engine will not be able to generate enough heat to overcome the amount you need to heat the coach.   Turning on the diesel burner while driving will make your coach warm and toasty while driving.

4).  I love my coach.  I especially love the fact that there are lots of ways to heat the coach.  Heated floors, Aquahot heat, electric heaters, basement heaters to keep water bay warm...  It’s really a marvel.   However....there is one thing that I wish I had....   A way to keep my air compressor (front passenger basement) bay from freezing.  On my coach the 120V compressor feeds the front two slide seals.   If the compressor stops working (or freezes) the slide seals will eventually deflate.  Not good in cold weather.

My solution was to sew up a blanket of sunbrella material with a layer of foam to cover the vents in that bay.  I installed snaps so it is easy to put on and take off.   In cold weather I run an extension cord to a small space heater that I put in the bay.   Right now the outside temps are 18f with wind...but it is a balmy 82f degrees inside the bay.   #winning.

   

Thank you for reading.   I hope that everyone stays safe and warm.  Again...feel free to chime in with your cold weather tips and tricks.

Cheers,
Bill

Gurus,

97 Newell Series 60 Detroit

At highway speed only temp gauge will jump up to about 220-230 but engine is NOT overheating as I have shot it numerous times with laser and block is 180-200, and if it was getting that hot the engine shutdown would activate. I have changed the sending unit on the engine,but no luck. Could this be a bad gauge in the dash? It only does this once you get to highway speeds over 50-60 MPH.
Has anyone else ever experienced this in the older Newell's with Series 60? Otherwise this engine has been bulletproof and runs great!!

Thanks,
Greg McCann
[email protected]
817-296-0166

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/rvs/d...65258.html

I am unrelated to this Coach and no nothing about it.

As i search for mine I stumble across others.

Rick

I saw this post on cl. Anyone familiar with this classic? 


https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/rvs/d/...15630.html

I have a bad relay in my generator and having trouble finding a replacement. Its a Potter Brumfield AB-1301 and has 8 posts.

Even numbers on one side and odd on the other. When the relay is off posts 8 and 2 are connected, and posts 7 and 1 are connected. When the relay is actuated posts 8 and 4 are connected and posts 7 and 3 are connected. Posts 5 and 6 turn on the switch.

I would think theres a modern replacement but have not been able to find one. I have thought about wiring in 2 relays to replace it. Any tips would be appreciated.  I apologize for the attached relay diagram, I am sure its not correctly notated.