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Both times (another story) I have replaced my radiator the bottom connection for the transmission cooler has been a source of leaks. The leak occurs where the 3/4NPT pipe screws into the transmission cooler on the radiator. This joint is further complicated by the fact that a TEE is on the other end of pipe nipple, and the TEE is where the transmission temp is taken for the gauge on the dash. You can’t just spin the nipple to make it tighter without the TEE hitting the fan shroud. And I added a longer nipple so that I could spin it completely around. 

Needless to say, ATF oozing into the engine bay, dispersed by the fan, makes a pretty good mess. I was motivated to stop this leak. All kinds of thread sealant were tried, teflon tape was tried, cleaning up the threads with a tap was tried. All my attempts would drip just a bit when the engine got hot. 

I found Loctite 545. It’s made specifically for hydraulic fittings. It does set once cured, so some force will be required to break it loose. So far, the fitting is dry as a bone. You won’t find it at Lowes/HD or any local parts place. You can get it on Amazon or McMaster Carr. 

I think it would also work for a pesky air fitting, but I haven’t used it in that application.

1995 newell for sale 45 feet long with 150,000 miles

call cliff
408-802-3843

Hello Newbie Here, Sadly we need to sell our 1997 Newell Coach. I have information and pictures. I am not sure where to post them here. Any advice would be appreciated

I have my coach plugged in at home and just noticed that the the 2 gauges (line 1 and 2) above the drivers seat were not showing power.  The inverter shows 13.65 and my outside surge protector shows 122 and 120 on each line going in.  Also shows about 5 amps used on line 2.  I turned off the shore power and fired up the generator with the same results, the line 1 and 2 lights on the generator control panel above the driver seat not lit as it usually is.  Now for my question - would having the front, middle and rear air conditioner breakers turned off cause this?  My middle AC unit went out, so while new parts are ordered, the shop turned all 3 breakers off.  I ask this because on a recent trip, the middle AC breaker tripped, and I saw that line 2 power was out.  Reset the breaker and had line 2 power back on.  Any ideas short of turning the 3 breakers back on to see any changes?  Thanks.

Hello all,

Looking for the 100% scale drawing to download and make or if anybody has one to sell, I am interested in finding the plexiglass lock for the shower door.

Anybody ?
Thanks    

Free Microflush LF-220 12v toilet - NO AIR CONNECTIONS. Pickup in Biloxi, MS this week.

It all started with a leaky bowl to hopper seal. Got that changed out and found another small drip.  Went to tighten it and snapped the plastic holder that goes from the hopper to the bowl.  Should be able to order that part (maybe) and a couple seals to refresh everything.  I just swapped it out for a Dometic 320 that was in stock and saved our glamping weekend.

Chris and Family
1990 Newell 43.5' #234

Nice looking Newell at Redstone Arsenal RV Park. Anyone from the forum?

I have a Low Tank cutoff (red light) and a low temp cutoff green light both illuminated. I went to CW today to buy some boiler antifreeze, topped off the tank (main) and made sure the overflow bottle had an adequate  level of coolant. After making sure everything was topped off, red light still on and I get no hot water. I checked all the fuses (good) reset the main breaker, check. NOTHING??

She will not fire with elec. or diesel, I am assuming that as long as that red light is on it will stay in safe mode. Is there a reset switch?? I've looked at the manual and it says "the light will reset itself once fluids are at the appropriate levels"

Scratching my head. Any ideas on how to get that light out?

TIA

Carthan

Hello all,
As I try to get to know my new (to me) coach, I've run across a few things that aren't specifically addressed in the threads in this sub forum.

I have a mystery switch on the dash that when toggled, turns on a chime.  After more experimentation, I found that when energized, it also causes one of the 6-pack solenoids to vent from the manifold, drawing down all coach air.  While I have a little understanding of the manifold and 6 pack design, most people seem to only have 1 where I have 2 in the rear.  The mystery switch causes the lower left solenoid on the lower 6-pack to vent when the ignition is on.  Not knowing what the switch did, I disconnected the associated chime and turned it on.  It eventually vented all the air and nearly left me stuck.  Luckily, I remembered that I changed something and flipped the switch back off and the coach started to build air again. Crisis of the moment avoided.

My hope is that the mystery switch is the Tag Dump and everything is working as it should, however, I don't think that's the case.  On that topic, I would like to add a tag dump switch, if there isn't one already there. (maybe another mystery switch somewhere)

The top manifold also has the vent hole that also appears to be used, but I am not sure what causes it to function.

I can also see in that photo that I think I need a new air filter.

Thanks,
Chris
1990 Newell #234

For many years, Newell used a clever setup on the 120V air compressors where a classic water separator with clear bowl is used to trap water in the air coming from the compressor. They also mounted a solenoid operated valve on the bottom drain of the water separator that had two functions. One, when it opened at the end of the cycle, any accumulated water would drain. Two, it relieved the head pressure on the compressor in order to make the compressor easy to start on the next cycle. 

That's all great, but the separators are notorious leakers. Some people find creative ways of stopping the leak, but they inadvertantly eliminate the pressure relief on the compressor. The compressor doesn't last long starting against a head pressure. 

There is an alternate setup that is inexpensive and works great. Many of you may already be aware of this device, but in case you are having this problem, here is a different solution.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHZ...UTF8&psc=1  You can buy more expensive ones, but the name and function is the same.

The diagram is crude but shows how to plumb the device. There are a couple of things to keep in mind. One, this device REPLACES the well pump switch for turning power on and off to the compressor. You will have to adjust it downward to come on at 60 and off at 90. The instructions are printed in the top of the protective cap. Two, it is imperative that you plumb the air lines exactly as the diagram with a tee before the checkvalve, and one of the lines from the tee goes to the 1/4 tubing fitting on top of the unloader. 

This is how the whole thing works. When the compressor is on, the air flows to the tee, one branch of the tee flows to the mechanical unloader valve via the 1/4 line. That branch is dead headed because the mechanical unloader valve is closed. The other branch of the tee flows to the check valve, through the check valve and to the body of the unloader (the part with the four ports), and the exit of the ports flows into the ping tank and onto the coach. The pressure switch is mounted on the ported manifold. When the pressure reaches it's setpoint, the switch opens, and when it does it depresses the stem of the mechanical unloader valve. That releases pressure coming from the tee via the 1/4 line. However the pressure does not flow back out of the tank or ported manifold because of the check valve. This explanation will read better if you print the diagram to look at while following the description. 

I have added a drain valve on the bottom of the ping tank. I like quarter turn shut off valves. You will need to drain the tank once a month or so. 

I am posting this because I helped a gentlemen this week with a system like this, and it is a frequent problem with Newell coaches.