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Mid-entry 2009. We tend to keep a thin rug on the bottom step to wipe our feet. After pulling in yesterday I forgot to turn off the step, so it closed with the carpet in the step cover. It's happened a couple of times before and I've been able to pull on the carpet when opening the door and the step came out. Not this time 

I've checked the fuse and it's good. I can't see any access to the step mechanism when it's closed. Any ideas?

Not being an electrician or engineer I hope those of you who are can confirm or correct me on this.  I believe I have 110v going to my AC units based on the breakers.   Am I correct in assuming this?   The last breaker, the duel is the one labeled as washer/dryer.  I believe everything else in our bus is 110v.  

I want to be sure I order the correct replacement unit based on voltage.  I have picked out a 115v unit, just want to make sure as I Would have thought in 1985 most AC units would be 230v.  

Learning every day.        

Two question post:

1.  I have run into the need to move my blower to the opposite side of my coach.  Anyone see a reason this would be an issue functionally?   I know it requires some ducting to get to past steering shaft and have already worked that part out. 

2. When I pulled the blower currently in my coach I saw it is a Dayton 5C198 and I see other posts recommending the Dayton 1XJY4. To me they seem almost identical in specs.   Anyone know or have an opinion as to why one might be better than the other or if I might want to consider changing for the 1XJY4?  At this point they seem so much the same I was going to keep the one I have but thought I would ask here first, I have already seen there are many on here that know more then me.

I hope this helps someone in the future. 

If you want to replace the salon slide out cylinders for an HWH slide, first be aware there are two mountings. The first, and like mine, has access panels in the basement ceiling and front tire well on the passeger side. Inside you will find the end of the cylinder mounted to the frame via stud on the end of the cylinder, and two large nuts for adjustment. If you have a later model HWH slide out, the nuts on the driver side, and I have no idea about that one. 

Here is the essence. HWH uses a different approach to hydraulics than most of us old tractor mechanics are used to. Both the extend and retract ends are pressurized during the extend stroke. It WILL NOT extend unless both ends are pressurized because there is a check valve apparatus at the rod end of the cylinder. It will retract by simply pressurizing the rod end of the cylinder. If you don't know this about HWH cylinders it causes a whole bunch of vocabulary expanding perjoratives. 

That point is essential in understanding the post. The instructions for installing the cylinder from HWH say to install it extended. Plus you have to extend the room to access the attachment point for the cylinder rod. However, with the rod extended you would have to cut the coach into two pieces to get the cylinder out and put a new one in. 

There may be other ways but here is how I did it. 

I used a port a power hydraulic pump courtesy of HF. To extend the cylinder, cobble enough fittings to get from the 1/4 NPT of the port a power hose to the 1/8 flare fitting of the cylinder. Cobble together enough fittings and hose to tee the hydraulics and apply hyd pressure to both fittings. It seems counterintuitive, but when you apply hyd pressure the cylinder will extend. 

To get the cylinder to retract, rework the hoses to only apply pressure to the rod end. Obviously hyd fluid will come out of the other end when you move the cylinder. 

As you extend the cylinder, you may have to refill the reservoir on the pump several times. When I had all the fitting arrangements to suit me, I extended and retracted the cylinder a few times will holding it vertical in both directions to bleed any entrained air. I was careful when installing to minimize the leakage while reattaching to the HWH system. 

You wil first need to retract the old cylinder to get it out of the coach. Then you will need to extend the new cylinder after you put it in place. Only after extension can you line up the attachment points of the cylinder with the coach and slide. 

My fear was that with a cylinder at each end of the room, that it would cock the room until the hydraulic system cycled a few times and bled out any entrained air in the replaced cylinder. With the careful bleeding on the bench prior to install, the room did not cock when moving on the first trys. 

There may be a simpler way, now that I have slept on it. It may have been possible to open the access above the tire, disconnect those lines and cap them. I may have been able to simply press the extend and retract buttons to operate the cylinder I was working on. I do know that I tried to use the HWH pump and system to move the cylinder when it was mechanically disconnected on both ends and it started to move the opposite end of the room. I decided not to pursure that approach very far. 

The post begs the question, why did you change the cylinder? It was not appreciably leaking. However, the room was cocking a bit going in and out. Cocking enough that the outer skin of the slide was catching on the coach skin. I knew that was going to create a big problem eventually. There is an adjustment in the center of the slide, up in the ceiling to account for cocking, or racking. However, that did not address my problem. My specific problem was the rear would start out late going out, but also start out late coming in. Meaning the room was racking in both directions. The only thing I could figure that would account for that was that the seal inside the cylinder was leaking by causing the cylinder to react slower than it's counterpart. 

All seems to be good on the test trys.

1999 #517
New tires
New Fridge, new microwave
Aqua Hot replaced
180,000 miles
Generator hours 7275
Front wheel and tire conversion
Wider tire creates safer ride
Spare front wheel
2 slide outs
HD tv dish and in motion satellite dish
4 tv's
Satellite radio
Used by race team owner
seals for slides recently replaced
Updated xeon headlights
Nav system
Good Shape
extra heavy duty trailer hitch
some spare parts
Car dolly available
Many upgrades
For sale by owner
$90,000 or make offer
Middleburg, VA
703-395-2133 Tom

Hello everyone,
My wife and I are proud new owners of 1990 number 234, AKA Lynn and Jeff's coach.  Currently at Keesler AFB, Mississippi and awaiting orders to move *somewhere* in July/August.  This is my 10th coach and, by far, the smoothest and quietest ride of any of the coaches that I have had so far.  As a former Air Force aircraft sheetmetal mechanic, I appreciate the aluminum construction and rivets.

Chris
1990 Newell #234

I'm on my first day  out on a 2 week trip to Colorado and noticed the volt meter only reading between 11 and 11.5 volts.  I don't think it will create a problem for the trip since we are staying in parks with hook-ups so the batteries will get charged each night for the next days driving.  Is there a problem with this thinking?  Should I have it checked out immediately?  I already know the drive end seal needs replacing, I plan on doing that when I get back.

Hello,

I have a propane/electric Dometic fridge in my 99 coach. It no longer cools and I see the yellow signature of an ammonia leak. There are companies that refurbish the cooling part of the fridge. You pull out the old, drop in the refurbished and all's well. Of course, you have to get the fridge on the floor to access the back. Has anyone done this? I've looked to see how the fridge is held in place. Newell says there is probably just a strip of wood holding it in.

David

I am gonna put the punchline at the top before I tell you a long Bill story.

If your Headhunter Mach V pump goes bad....call the Headhunter support line at 954.581.6996.  Tell them what is going on.  They can give you an RMA number to send the pump for minor repair....or....they will request the serial number be sent to them and they will send you a new pump for 50% off.  (Around $600).

I have had two pumps replaced at Newell over the years.   I did not want the old broken pumps so they got thrown away.  (I wish that I knew that they were worth $600 each).

So here is the story....

I bought a new HH pump to carry with me in case I had problems.   It sat new-in-the-box in my basement bay for about three years.   I happened to be at Richard Entrekin’s southern headquarters and mentioned that I had a water leak.  He said...lets take a look at it.   Between the two of us, we found a leak IN THE CASE OF THE PUMP!  (I think I posted pics at the time).  Richard supervised me while I replaced with my spare pump.  I told him that he could have the old leaky pump if he wanted.   

Fast forward a few months...I am again at Richard’s house and again I had a leak in my water pump.   This time the pump was leaking at the rear seal.   Harrumph!   In the meantime, Richard had repaired the case of the leaky pump that I had given him.   He graciously offered it back to me.   Once again I replaced my pump in his driveway.   The pump mostly worked, but had a bad pressure switch which I robbed out of the pump with a leaky rear seal.

The point of this story is how much I have appreciated being a member of the gurus.  Various gurus have given me pieces and parts that they thought I could use and I have reciprocated in kind.  This sort of camaraderie seems to be in short supply theses day.   

Thanks to Richard for his generosity and thanks also to all the gurus.

Cheers,
Bill

I can’t find the “waste tank flush” hose connection on my new-to-me 2010 Newell. Surely it has one.  Any ideas?