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when we stayed in the coach last year for 7 months, towards the end the salon slide flat floor would drop over the course of a month or more.  when in the shop parked with the slides out i noticed that after about 6 weeks the floor had dropped about an inch.  

this means the hwh floor up solenoid is leaking.  so, i got a couple of RAP90729 solenoids and replaced the floor up one.  

the pictures show how my coach solenoids are oriented.  i know there are many different orientations of hydraulic manifolds so i can only speak for mine.  btw, my genny slide is hydraulic as is the genny compartment lock.  it has a pin just like the slides do.  at least on my manifold, the solenoids are only labeled for their function.  not for which slide it is.  i just unplugged valves and tried them to make a schematic as to which is which.  

years go i found a guy on another forum who made and sold a tool to go in the end of the older hwh solenoids.  it is very handy.  the new solenoids are different.  

a tip is that to remove one solenoid valve, you have to relieve the pressure on both sides of the cylinder.  in this case, i backed the hex nut off on the floor up AND floor down solenoid.  otherwise there is still pressure on the floor up and you cant get it out.  you can hear the fluid pressure releasing as you do the second one.  meaning i backed the 1/4 inch nut off 4 turns on the floor up.   then the same on the floor down and then you can hear the pressure releasing.  then you can easily remove the bad solenoid.  

i have had slide creep out when the slides are in (that caused me to replace my front salon slide seal as it rolled out then) and i have replace the room extend solenoid valve to fix that previously.  what i would do there is to release the air from the slide seal before doing both extend and retract solenoids to prevent any slide movement with the seal pressurized.  

the new solenoids have a flipper on the end instead of the 1/4" nut on the old ones.  much easier.  note to self....for the valve to work the flipper leverl has to be sticking straight out.....

i just tightened the new valve in with a channel lock being careful not to over tighten.  they are self priming so you just operate the slide and check it.  worked fine and then i checked for leaks at the valve and there were one.  

btw, you will loose an ounce or so of fluid while you are changing it.  

the valves are pricey.  i bought mine from a hwh employee who lives near my son in prescott arizona who is a traveling serviceman for them.  

thats my 2 cents worth

tom

I have been taking my coach to places and letting them change my oil at about $400 or so. 
Since I have a nice enclosed building I'm thinking of changing my own oil.  What do you guys use to drain and transport the old oil? 
I have to look in my manual but I think I need about 13 gallons of oil.  I know to check the air tanks.  Rear end/transmission? What else? 
Any suggestions welcome! Yes, I understand about chocking up the coach and will definitely be SAFE under there! This is all if I get brave enough to crawl under there...

I saw this one last week at USA Luxury Coach in Clearwater, Florida.  Given my experiences there, I would HIGHLY recommend getting the coach OUT of there ASAP.

        Coach 603 is traveling with several friends with sob coaches here in Virginia. Owner tells me it is a very low mileage coach. I think 20k?  and he recently purchased it as the second owner.He is headed to the mother ship soon for some tlc. Coach looks spectacular.  I let him know about you gurus . He didn't think he has heard of the group.

I’m trying to find the best solution to extend my built-in Waste Master Sewer Hose. I would like to attach an extension to the built-in hose nozzle and have another nozzle at the other end of the extension.  Does anyone have a recommendation for this?

Thanks

hi all,

the exterior seal that goes around the door itself that is visible on the door on mine has gotten somewhat hard and had a chunk about the size of two quarters rip on it.  i used superglue and glued it back it but alas, it is coming loose again.

i called and talked to bode, and i have the drawings and parts breakdown from bode for our newells air door.  

there are two rubber seals and i guess i didnt realize it.  one is on the door and is big.  the other is on the door frame on the coach and the two mesh together that causes it to totally seal and is why there is no air noise when driving.  

the seal on the door i ordered. it was 300 bucks delivered.  expensive, but not too surprising.  

it came this week and i will take pictures as i take the old one off and put the new one on.  bode tech support has been very helpful with it.  

tom

Dear Newell Gurus;

While I love looking at the older Newells, who continue to prove being built-well translates into a long, useful life.  But the off-white cabinetry, while very serviceable, seem to always date the coach.

Yet I still remember the first day I saw a coach whose interior was done entirely in Ultra Wood - simply stunning.    And that stunning feeling continued... when I saw how much that option cost!  (But it looked so good!)

But here's the kicker (maybe).

We saw a 2008 a number of years ago that was in tip-top shape.  We just saw interior pictures of the same coach taken recently...and that same veneer has aged very poorly!  Kinda looked like a lady's fingernail polish - just before she's forced to get'em done again!  Dull, cracked, corners & curves had actually changed colors...basically awful!

So with all the new offerings out on the market for interior wood, does it make sense to buy a coach with this finish?  Is it like some stick houses that you must always have the AC on (even during storage).   Are there better offerings that will last without fuss - but still give that "wood look"?   And will that look hold up over decades?

Inquiring minds want to know!

Just received this notification from our friends at Newell:

Quote:Dear Customers,

Please be advised our area is currently experiencing a outage of phone and internet service. AT&T is aware of the outage and is confident in getting us up and running soon. If you are unable to reach us at our switchboard number
(918) 542-3344, please use the contact numbers below.

Thank you for your patience

Service or Parts requests:

Todd Dills
918- 919-1181 
[email protected]


Sales:

Pat Dwyer
918-640-4738
[email protected]

Brian Pitts
918-791-8477
[email protected]

Phil Cornelius 
541-953-3113
[email protected]

Josh Snider
704-657-1783
[email protected]

Well the time has come for us to sell our beloved Newell.  This is our 2nd Newell and we have loved them both.  We are no longer using the coach much as our kids are busy in other activities and we are not able to go on trips as often as we'd like.  We debated whether or not to keep it for a few years until our schedules open back up but decided it's best to sell it now and then plan to buy another Newell in a few years.  

The coach has been maintained exclusively at Newell (since I live only 2.5 hours away from Miami) and is in great shape.  I just spent $25k on full service and various maintenance, service, and replacement items that needed to be addressed.  It's got 37,000 +/- miles and 3,000 gen hours.  

Please ask any questions or shoot me a PM.  I can tell you we are ready to sell it - not desperate - but will entertain offers.  

I want to thank everyone on Newell Gurus for all the help over the years.  It's been a life-saver!  

https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

Can someone explain to me the term amp hours? Specifically, say I have a total of 500 amp hours in my house battery bank.  I know I can only use a max of 250 of those amp hours without damaging my batteries.  My understanding is I can run an appliance using 1 amp for 250 hours.  Is that correct,  or am I hallucinating?