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Hey Guys/Gals, 

My zone 2 ac has gone bad in my coach #1242. I have decided to replace all 4 units instead of just the one as I’m sure the rest are close to end of life as well.  I have replaced Coleman roof ac in past on my past Airstreams so familiar w the process but my one question is, how to access the interior plenum w/ the decorative ceiling? Are the panels clipped in or secured in different way? 

I just got my coach back from Newell so it’s too bad I didn’t have this issue prior or I would have had them complete the work. I also don’t trust anyone else working on my coach besides myself and Newell bc I have come to realize most RV repair facilities could careless if they cause damage while making repairs.

Thanks in advance for any helpful tips!

I used three different names for the same thing since I learned that different industries and shops call the same thing three different names. It is the rod that runs parallel to the drive axle, and it’s purpose is to keep the drive axle centered in the frame. After all air bags are somewhat mushy. 

Mine was worn out, so Covid madness finally spurred me to replace it. Getting it out is not for the meek. Big torch and bigger hammer to get the tapered fitting to unstick. You can’t really tell how sloppy the ball joint is from the photo, but it has about 1/4 inch play in it. 

The impact of wear in this part is that it would allow the back end to wiggle a bit, now that’s normally a good thing  , but anytime the back shifts, the driver must compensate for that movement. It will be a couple of weeks before I can drive it to see if I can detect an improvement. 

Anyway, the replacement part is Meritor Kit 5116. You can find alternates on the net. Keep in mind the original and the replacement are welded together to form one non adjustable rod. I am posting because it took me almost a week to identify and find this part. 



Here are some pics.
   
   
       
   

Hi all,

Getting ready to take the bus out of the storage place, got H4 LED bulbs and thought it is time to do an upgrade.
As I change bulbs, before I put everything together, I have to test them.....no low beams...both sides, no power to the bulbs sockets.
I have the quad headlight setup with Ford Bronco elements, each headlight has a H4 dual filament bulb. I can get the inside pair (high beam) to light up if I pull on the turn signal stalk...but no low beams. Parking lights OK, turn signals ok, marker lights ok...no low beams. Puzzler...

Checked the fuses, the high and low beam circuits both go through a self resetting 25 amp fuse each, separate for high and low beams. Both Breakers are good. I have 12v power leaving the breaker but not getting to the bulbs. If there was one only I would think I have to look for a broken wire or no contact...but both ? I can not find in the diagram a headlight power relay...is there one somewhere ?

So...what am I missing ? Is there a release relay somewhere that allows lights to come on when the bus is in Drive only, or Parking brake disengaged and I don't know about it somewhere ?

Anybody had this happen ?

Another thing I just noticed is that the high beam blue light indicator on the dash does not come on when the high beams are on....it should...I will pull that bulb out after I take the dash cap off and check it out...

Any suggestions ?

Others have posted that for them and their front axle tires they have used Michelin 305/75R24.5 tires in place of a 11R24.5 on the front axle only. The use of the 305/75 gives a little more load rating without having to move to a different wheel and associated wheel stud issues. The Michelin 305/75R24.5 XDA 5 is "J" load rated and 18 ply. I have had zero luck finding these tires, even called Michelin North America. So my question is has anyone purchased a 305/75R24.5 recently? If so where and were they Michelin or other? The Michelin 305/75R24.5 lists for about $1,200 each and if they are this hard to find I am hesitant to upgrade. Thanks

Can anyone tell me what or where this comp heat is/was supposed to be.  I have lots of heat sources on the bus but not sure how or what the comp heat switch is for.

I apologize if this is on here already but I could not find it.  I have had no luck trying to identify what this breaker is for by isolating it.  Anyone have an idea.  It is a 20 amp in bedroom closet all by itself.

   

Sorry for sideways image. I cant figure out how to fix it.

This is a HACK, that may save you a little trouble someday. I post this because the standard injectors for the  Yanmar 4TN84V are available in many markets. The exact match injectors for the Yanmar engine in our Kohler generators are apparently made of unobtanium. 

I was replacing the injectors in my Yanmar generator engine. I bought injectors on line to fit the 4TN84V engine. When I took the old ones out, the mounting arrangement and fittings on the old injector weren’t even close to the injectors I bought. Oops. 

But, the business end of the new injector including springs, shims, poppets, and nozzle fits the old top end. Since the top end is a simple non working part, I swapped the new injector parts to the old injector body. 

Lots of little pieces and cleanliness is essential, so disassemble and reassemble in a clean environment.

Worked great, no more smoking.

According to the listing, made custom for Mr Earnhardt.   A '97 for 72k.

https://www.rvt.com/Newell-Custom-Made-1...9-UX356720

I recently repaired the air water sequence valve in our Microphor LF210. The following are hints from my experience.

• When you order the air water sequence valve overhaul kit PN 95187 it will convert the older style black valve open top end cap to a closed end cap. This is done with replacement of the internal spool stem, the addition of an end plug and an end cap that does not have a hole in it. This eliminates a water leak failure point where the older style stem would protrude from the end and required an o ring to seal it. See yellow arrow in picture.
  
• The gray body valve is the newer part and much more robust than the older black valve. If converting from the black valve to gray you have to transfer the air fittings. Do not use teflon tape to seal the fittings, use plumbers putty. These fittings can be over tightened easily and crack the valve body. They do not need to be super tight, just snug.
  
• Both the black and gray valves have a top and bottom joint to the middle valve body. When you install the top portion of valve to middle portion it does not need to be super tight. Doing so will crack it. This connection does not seal water or air. It is just a mechanical bond between the two parts. If you are just taking apart the valve to clean and lube it I suggest you make two index marks on these threaded areas. Then upon reassembly, stop at the index marks.
  
• The bottom end cap to middle valve body is sealed with an o ring. ( see green arrow ). When you screw this joint together the gray valve body has to pass past this o-ring to seal. This creates a binding point during assembly. If you stop short of going all the way past this o-ring, the internal operating piston can travel farther than it is supposed to and the valve will not work correctly. If you tighten the bottom end cap enough to get past the o ring and bottom out the gray body you can then over tighten the bottom end cap and crack it. The answer is to first remove the sealing o-ring ( green arrow ) and then screw on the bottom end cap till the body bottoms to the end cap. Then make Sharpie index marks ( Red arrows ) noting the point where it's just at the end of its travel together in the joint. Then unscrew the joint, reinstall the o-ring and reassemble by tightening to the index marks only. It will help to lube the o-ring with silicone.
  
• The bottom air fittings going into the valve body can easily damage the valve if they are over tightened into the valve plastic. The threads can be pulled or the body plastic will crack.
  
• The internals of the valve should be lubed with silicone grease. This includes the o-rings, spool stem.
  
• The water inlet and spud outlet fittings can crack the plastic of the valve if over tightened. Use caution here as well.