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hi all,

the exterior seal that goes around the door itself that is visible on the door on mine has gotten somewhat hard and had a chunk about the size of two quarters rip on it.  i used superglue and glued it back it but alas, it is coming loose again.

i called and talked to bode, and i have the drawings and parts breakdown from bode for our newells air door.  

there are two rubber seals and i guess i didnt realize it.  one is on the door and is big.  the other is on the door frame on the coach and the two mesh together that causes it to totally seal and is why there is no air noise when driving.  

the seal on the door i ordered. it was 300 bucks delivered.  expensive, but not too surprising.  

it came this week and i will take pictures as i take the old one off and put the new one on.  bode tech support has been very helpful with it.  

tom

Dear Newell Gurus;

While I love looking at the older Newells, who continue to prove being built-well translates into a long, useful life.  But the off-white cabinetry, while very serviceable, seem to always date the coach.

Yet I still remember the first day I saw a coach whose interior was done entirely in Ultra Wood - simply stunning.    And that stunning feeling continued... when I saw how much that option cost!  (But it looked so good!)

But here's the kicker (maybe).

We saw a 2008 a number of years ago that was in tip-top shape.  We just saw interior pictures of the same coach taken recently...and that same veneer has aged very poorly!  Kinda looked like a lady's fingernail polish - just before she's forced to get'em done again!  Dull, cracked, corners & curves had actually changed colors...basically awful!

So with all the new offerings out on the market for interior wood, does it make sense to buy a coach with this finish?  Is it like some stick houses that you must always have the AC on (even during storage).   Are there better offerings that will last without fuss - but still give that "wood look"?   And will that look hold up over decades?

Inquiring minds want to know!

Just received this notification from our friends at Newell:

Quote:Dear Customers,

Please be advised our area is currently experiencing a outage of phone and internet service. AT&T is aware of the outage and is confident in getting us up and running soon. If you are unable to reach us at our switchboard number
(918) 542-3344, please use the contact numbers below.

Thank you for your patience

Service or Parts requests:

Todd Dills
918- 919-1181 
[email protected]


Sales:

Pat Dwyer
918-640-4738
[email protected]

Brian Pitts
918-791-8477
[email protected]

Phil Cornelius 
541-953-3113
[email protected]

Josh Snider
704-657-1783
[email protected]

Well the time has come for us to sell our beloved Newell.  This is our 2nd Newell and we have loved them both.  We are no longer using the coach much as our kids are busy in other activities and we are not able to go on trips as often as we'd like.  We debated whether or not to keep it for a few years until our schedules open back up but decided it's best to sell it now and then plan to buy another Newell in a few years.  

The coach has been maintained exclusively at Newell (since I live only 2.5 hours away from Miami) and is in great shape.  I just spent $25k on full service and various maintenance, service, and replacement items that needed to be addressed.  It's got 37,000 +/- miles and 3,000 gen hours.  

Please ask any questions or shoot me a PM.  I can tell you we are ready to sell it - not desperate - but will entertain offers.  

I want to thank everyone on Newell Gurus for all the help over the years.  It's been a life-saver!  

https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

Can someone explain to me the term amp hours? Specifically, say I have a total of 500 amp hours in my house battery bank.  I know I can only use a max of 250 of those amp hours without damaging my batteries.  My understanding is I can run an appliance using 1 amp for 250 hours.  Is that correct,  or am I hallucinating?

Hey Guys/Gals, 

My zone 2 ac has gone bad in my coach #1242. I have decided to replace all 4 units instead of just the one as I’m sure the rest are close to end of life as well.  I have replaced Coleman roof ac in past on my past Airstreams so familiar w the process but my one question is, how to access the interior plenum w/ the decorative ceiling? Are the panels clipped in or secured in different way? 

I just got my coach back from Newell so it’s too bad I didn’t have this issue prior or I would have had them complete the work. I also don’t trust anyone else working on my coach besides myself and Newell bc I have come to realize most RV repair facilities could careless if they cause damage while making repairs.

Thanks in advance for any helpful tips!

I used three different names for the same thing since I learned that different industries and shops call the same thing three different names. It is the rod that runs parallel to the drive axle, and it’s purpose is to keep the drive axle centered in the frame. After all air bags are somewhat mushy. 

Mine was worn out, so Covid madness finally spurred me to replace it. Getting it out is not for the meek. Big torch and bigger hammer to get the tapered fitting to unstick. You can’t really tell how sloppy the ball joint is from the photo, but it has about 1/4 inch play in it. 

The impact of wear in this part is that it would allow the back end to wiggle a bit, now that’s normally a good thing  , but anytime the back shifts, the driver must compensate for that movement. It will be a couple of weeks before I can drive it to see if I can detect an improvement. 

Anyway, the replacement part is Meritor Kit 5116. You can find alternates on the net. Keep in mind the original and the replacement are welded together to form one non adjustable rod. I am posting because it took me almost a week to identify and find this part. 



Here are some pics.
   
   
       
   

Hi all,

Getting ready to take the bus out of the storage place, got H4 LED bulbs and thought it is time to do an upgrade.
As I change bulbs, before I put everything together, I have to test them.....no low beams...both sides, no power to the bulbs sockets.
I have the quad headlight setup with Ford Bronco elements, each headlight has a H4 dual filament bulb. I can get the inside pair (high beam) to light up if I pull on the turn signal stalk...but no low beams. Parking lights OK, turn signals ok, marker lights ok...no low beams. Puzzler...

Checked the fuses, the high and low beam circuits both go through a self resetting 25 amp fuse each, separate for high and low beams. Both Breakers are good. I have 12v power leaving the breaker but not getting to the bulbs. If there was one only I would think I have to look for a broken wire or no contact...but both ? I can not find in the diagram a headlight power relay...is there one somewhere ?

So...what am I missing ? Is there a release relay somewhere that allows lights to come on when the bus is in Drive only, or Parking brake disengaged and I don't know about it somewhere ?

Anybody had this happen ?

Another thing I just noticed is that the high beam blue light indicator on the dash does not come on when the high beams are on....it should...I will pull that bulb out after I take the dash cap off and check it out...

Any suggestions ?

Others have posted that for them and their front axle tires they have used Michelin 305/75R24.5 tires in place of a 11R24.5 on the front axle only. The use of the 305/75 gives a little more load rating without having to move to a different wheel and associated wheel stud issues. The Michelin 305/75R24.5 XDA 5 is "J" load rated and 18 ply. I have had zero luck finding these tires, even called Michelin North America. So my question is has anyone purchased a 305/75R24.5 recently? If so where and were they Michelin or other? The Michelin 305/75R24.5 lists for about $1,200 each and if they are this hard to find I am hesitant to upgrade. Thanks

Can anyone tell me what or where this comp heat is/was supposed to be.  I have lots of heat sources on the bus but not sure how or what the comp heat switch is for.