• HWH Slide fluid reservoir
  Forum: Slides
  Last Post: Poweron
  17 minutes ago
  » Replies: 2
  » Views: 38
• Leaking cylinder
  Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
  Last Post: Poweron
  2 hours ago
  » Replies: 2
  » Views: 68
• 2027 Little Valley (No) R...
  Forum: Get Togethers
  Last Post: [email protected]
  Yesterday, 01:48 PM
  » Replies: 10
  » Views: 584
• Best approach for getting...
  Forum: Newell History
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  Yesterday, 03:04 AM
  » Replies: 4
  » Views: 117
• New to Newell and DDECII
  Forum: Engine and Transmission Monitoring Systems
  Last Post: Norton1090
  10-06-2026, 08:14 AM
  » Replies: 4
  » Views: 184
• Air Brake Chambers
  Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  10-06-2026, 07:20 AM
  » Replies: 5
  » Views: 196
• Our first RV, coach 210
  Forum: Please introduce yourself
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  10-06-2026, 02:49 AM
  » Replies: 5
  » Views: 177
• Power tech generator
  Forum: Generators
  Last Post: PMCBR
  10-05-2026, 06:11 PM
  » Replies: 2
  » Views: 144
• Reverse lights not workin...
  Forum: Electrical
  Last Post: Richard
  10-05-2026, 02:24 PM
  » Replies: 6
  » Views: 312
• Tag Axle Bushing Replacem...
  Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
  Last Post: [email protected]
  10-05-2026, 10:15 AM
  » Replies: 3
  » Views: 191

• Forum posts:70,786
• Forum threads:8,452
• Members:4,465
• Latest member:[email protected]

Free Microflush LF-220 12v toilet - NO AIR CONNECTIONS. Pickup in Biloxi, MS this week.

It all started with a leaky bowl to hopper seal. Got that changed out and found another small drip.  Went to tighten it and snapped the plastic holder that goes from the hopper to the bowl.  Should be able to order that part (maybe) and a couple seals to refresh everything.  I just swapped it out for a Dometic 320 that was in stock and saved our glamping weekend.

Chris and Family
1990 Newell 43.5' #234

Nice looking Newell at Redstone Arsenal RV Park. Anyone from the forum?

I have a Low Tank cutoff (red light) and a low temp cutoff green light both illuminated. I went to CW today to buy some boiler antifreeze, topped off the tank (main) and made sure the overflow bottle had an adequate  level of coolant. After making sure everything was topped off, red light still on and I get no hot water. I checked all the fuses (good) reset the main breaker, check. NOTHING??

She will not fire with elec. or diesel, I am assuming that as long as that red light is on it will stay in safe mode. Is there a reset switch?? I've looked at the manual and it says "the light will reset itself once fluids are at the appropriate levels"

Scratching my head. Any ideas on how to get that light out?

TIA

Carthan

Hello all,
As I try to get to know my new (to me) coach, I've run across a few things that aren't specifically addressed in the threads in this sub forum.

I have a mystery switch on the dash that when toggled, turns on a chime.  After more experimentation, I found that when energized, it also causes one of the 6-pack solenoids to vent from the manifold, drawing down all coach air.  While I have a little understanding of the manifold and 6 pack design, most people seem to only have 1 where I have 2 in the rear.  The mystery switch causes the lower left solenoid on the lower 6-pack to vent when the ignition is on.  Not knowing what the switch did, I disconnected the associated chime and turned it on.  It eventually vented all the air and nearly left me stuck.  Luckily, I remembered that I changed something and flipped the switch back off and the coach started to build air again. Crisis of the moment avoided.

My hope is that the mystery switch is the Tag Dump and everything is working as it should, however, I don't think that's the case.  On that topic, I would like to add a tag dump switch, if there isn't one already there. (maybe another mystery switch somewhere)

The top manifold also has the vent hole that also appears to be used, but I am not sure what causes it to function.

I can also see in that photo that I think I need a new air filter.

Thanks,
Chris
1990 Newell #234

For many years, Newell used a clever setup on the 120V air compressors where a classic water separator with clear bowl is used to trap water in the air coming from the compressor. They also mounted a solenoid operated valve on the bottom drain of the water separator that had two functions. One, when it opened at the end of the cycle, any accumulated water would drain. Two, it relieved the head pressure on the compressor in order to make the compressor easy to start on the next cycle. 

That's all great, but the separators are notorious leakers. Some people find creative ways of stopping the leak, but they inadvertantly eliminate the pressure relief on the compressor. The compressor doesn't last long starting against a head pressure. 

There is an alternate setup that is inexpensive and works great. Many of you may already be aware of this device, but in case you are having this problem, here is a different solution.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHZ...UTF8&psc=1  You can buy more expensive ones, but the name and function is the same.

The diagram is crude but shows how to plumb the device. There are a couple of things to keep in mind. One, this device REPLACES the well pump switch for turning power on and off to the compressor. You will have to adjust it downward to come on at 60 and off at 90. The instructions are printed in the top of the protective cap. Two, it is imperative that you plumb the air lines exactly as the diagram with a tee before the checkvalve, and one of the lines from the tee goes to the 1/4 tubing fitting on top of the unloader. 

This is how the whole thing works. When the compressor is on, the air flows to the tee, one branch of the tee flows to the mechanical unloader valve via the 1/4 line. That branch is dead headed because the mechanical unloader valve is closed. The other branch of the tee flows to the check valve, through the check valve and to the body of the unloader (the part with the four ports), and the exit of the ports flows into the ping tank and onto the coach. The pressure switch is mounted on the ported manifold. When the pressure reaches it's setpoint, the switch opens, and when it does it depresses the stem of the mechanical unloader valve. That releases pressure coming from the tee via the 1/4 line. However the pressure does not flow back out of the tank or ported manifold because of the check valve. This explanation will read better if you print the diagram to look at while following the description. 

I have added a drain valve on the bottom of the ping tank. I like quarter turn shut off valves. You will need to drain the tank once a month or so. 

I am posting this because I helped a gentlemen this week with a system like this, and it is a frequent problem with Newell coaches.

Mid-entry 2009. We tend to keep a thin rug on the bottom step to wipe our feet. After pulling in yesterday I forgot to turn off the step, so it closed with the carpet in the step cover. It's happened a couple of times before and I've been able to pull on the carpet when opening the door and the step came out. Not this time 

I've checked the fuse and it's good. I can't see any access to the step mechanism when it's closed. Any ideas?

Not being an electrician or engineer I hope those of you who are can confirm or correct me on this.  I believe I have 110v going to my AC units based on the breakers.   Am I correct in assuming this?   The last breaker, the duel is the one labeled as washer/dryer.  I believe everything else in our bus is 110v.  

I want to be sure I order the correct replacement unit based on voltage.  I have picked out a 115v unit, just want to make sure as I Would have thought in 1985 most AC units would be 230v.  

Learning every day.        

Two question post:

1.  I have run into the need to move my blower to the opposite side of my coach.  Anyone see a reason this would be an issue functionally?   I know it requires some ducting to get to past steering shaft and have already worked that part out. 

2. When I pulled the blower currently in my coach I saw it is a Dayton 5C198 and I see other posts recommending the Dayton 1XJY4. To me they seem almost identical in specs.   Anyone know or have an opinion as to why one might be better than the other or if I might want to consider changing for the 1XJY4?  At this point they seem so much the same I was going to keep the one I have but thought I would ask here first, I have already seen there are many on here that know more then me.

I hope this helps someone in the future. 

If you want to replace the salon slide out cylinders for an HWH slide, first be aware there are two mountings. The first, and like mine, has access panels in the basement ceiling and front tire well on the passeger side. Inside you will find the end of the cylinder mounted to the frame via stud on the end of the cylinder, and two large nuts for adjustment. If you have a later model HWH slide out, the nuts on the driver side, and I have no idea about that one. 

Here is the essence. HWH uses a different approach to hydraulics than most of us old tractor mechanics are used to. Both the extend and retract ends are pressurized during the extend stroke. It WILL NOT extend unless both ends are pressurized because there is a check valve apparatus at the rod end of the cylinder. It will retract by simply pressurizing the rod end of the cylinder. If you don't know this about HWH cylinders it causes a whole bunch of vocabulary expanding perjoratives. 

That point is essential in understanding the post. The instructions for installing the cylinder from HWH say to install it extended. Plus you have to extend the room to access the attachment point for the cylinder rod. However, with the rod extended you would have to cut the coach into two pieces to get the cylinder out and put a new one in. 

There may be other ways but here is how I did it. 

I used a port a power hydraulic pump courtesy of HF. To extend the cylinder, cobble enough fittings to get from the 1/4 NPT of the port a power hose to the 1/8 flare fitting of the cylinder. Cobble together enough fittings and hose to tee the hydraulics and apply hyd pressure to both fittings. It seems counterintuitive, but when you apply hyd pressure the cylinder will extend. 

To get the cylinder to retract, rework the hoses to only apply pressure to the rod end. Obviously hyd fluid will come out of the other end when you move the cylinder. 

As you extend the cylinder, you may have to refill the reservoir on the pump several times. When I had all the fitting arrangements to suit me, I extended and retracted the cylinder a few times will holding it vertical in both directions to bleed any entrained air. I was careful when installing to minimize the leakage while reattaching to the HWH system. 

You wil first need to retract the old cylinder to get it out of the coach. Then you will need to extend the new cylinder after you put it in place. Only after extension can you line up the attachment points of the cylinder with the coach and slide. 

My fear was that with a cylinder at each end of the room, that it would cock the room until the hydraulic system cycled a few times and bled out any entrained air in the replaced cylinder. With the careful bleeding on the bench prior to install, the room did not cock when moving on the first trys. 

There may be a simpler way, now that I have slept on it. It may have been possible to open the access above the tire, disconnect those lines and cap them. I may have been able to simply press the extend and retract buttons to operate the cylinder I was working on. I do know that I tried to use the HWH pump and system to move the cylinder when it was mechanically disconnected on both ends and it started to move the opposite end of the room. I decided not to pursure that approach very far. 

The post begs the question, why did you change the cylinder? It was not appreciably leaking. However, the room was cocking a bit going in and out. Cocking enough that the outer skin of the slide was catching on the coach skin. I knew that was going to create a big problem eventually. There is an adjustment in the center of the slide, up in the ceiling to account for cocking, or racking. However, that did not address my problem. My specific problem was the rear would start out late going out, but also start out late coming in. Meaning the room was racking in both directions. The only thing I could figure that would account for that was that the seal inside the cylinder was leaking by causing the cylinder to react slower than it's counterpart. 

All seems to be good on the test trys.

1999 #517
New tires
New Fridge, new microwave
Aqua Hot replaced
180,000 miles
Generator hours 7275
Front wheel and tire conversion
Wider tire creates safer ride
Spare front wheel
2 slide outs
HD tv dish and in motion satellite dish
4 tv's
Satellite radio
Used by race team owner
seals for slides recently replaced
Updated xeon headlights
Nav system
Good Shape
extra heavy duty trailer hitch
some spare parts
Car dolly available
Many upgrades
For sale by owner
$90,000 or make offer
Middleburg, VA
703-395-2133 Tom