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We have coach 1267 which has a Cat and ZF combo.
Thinking of trading coach but seems no one wants it due to ZF tranny.
Has anyone traded the ZF for an Allison??
Any idea of a shop that has done this and or cost?
Thanks

https://www.newellcoach.com/careers

Currently openings for:
  Experienced tile layer
  Experienced cabinet builder
  Experienced welder
  Experienced air conditioning technician
  Graphic designer/artist

Hey Guys,
I new some help ASAP. My #1 slide, drivers side, front, made a loud pop sound when I extended it a week ago. Today, when I retracted it, it blew the 4 amp AC motor fuse at the same spot when it made the load pop. I replaced fuse and my motors are fine, it seems like I have a linkage failure. Any ideas, as I'm stuck in Oregon, and have to head to California.
Thanks in advance,
Ross Daniels

Is there a good replacement for the ShurFlo 12-volt water pump part 2088-422-144?  Ours is apparently dead.  Getting 12-volt to the pump when the switch is on... I wonder if I should detach the motor from the ‘upper housing’ - plastic part and see if the motor runs...

Yesterday we drove the coach to get some fuel about 2 hours away to a larger truck stop (I don’t like small stations where the fuel does not turn over often).  Once we got there (Fredericksburg, VA) we had a PM done at SpeedCo and got fuel at the Love’s there.  We stopped at Cracker Barrel for the night, ate and my wife did the obligatory shopping spree that always accompanies visiting the Barrel.  This morning we got up and I noticed the back end was low.  Brought it back to SpeedCo and you could hear the loud hissing from between the tires.  Looks like the air splitter/pressure relief/quick release valve is not sealing up correctly.  This means the 110v air compressor cannot keep up with the air loss. 
1) where can I get one of these things? 
2) where on the East coast near Maryland or Virginia can I get it installed?
Working on my coach in the RV Park is not going to happen (plus work has me really busy).
We need to get this fixed asap since we are staying in the coach for the next couple weeks. 
OH! I just realized that means the slide seals are going to deflate!!! I guess I’ll be trying out my new plastic 3M tape...

we were driving from beaver utah to home this week after finishing up our 6 month mission.  got about 20 miles north of st george utah in the hills and all of a sudden no power.  80mph speed limit and going up one hill i was doing 10.   darlene was following me in our f350 and said i was billowing black smoke.  ughhhh

i knew it was a turbo issue as i had zero boost showing.  ughhh

i also knew there was a freightliner shop right before getting into st george.  there was no place to pull over on the interstate.  i called leo and he said it was likely a charge air cooler hose popped off and it was ok to limp into the freightliner shop.  once i got off the freeway, it even gave me a check, then stop engine light and shut down once.  

i limped into the shop.  the service manager came out and saw the popped off hose clear at the back of the engine compartment at the top.  a clamp had broken.

he put a small skinny mechanic on it he was able to crawl back there on top of the hydraulic cooling fan motor after taking the coolant overflow tank out and take the old hose off, replace it with a new one and 4 new constant tension clamps.  was there a total of 3 hours including waiting an hour to get in the shop a total of 300 bucks including parts.  i got off lucky.  

very good shop.

tom

Hmmmmmmm. 

Don't send me to the manual. I have it. And have studied it intensely. 

Have any of you actually seen the synchronizing cylinder used for the front salon? If you have, would you please tell me where it is located? 

I have taken all the basement ceiling tiles out and traced all the cylinder lines. The rod end lines from the two extension retraction cylinders are supposed to connect to the synchornization cylinder. Mine are simply teed together and the single line returns to the manifold. 

The reason I am asking, is that I have developed a slight cocking problem as the room extends and retracts. The aft end is late going out by about 1.5 inches, and late coming in by the same amount. When fully in the room is flush, and when fully out the slide is perfectly even. You can see the room unwrack itself in the last bit of both the extension and retraction. 

Newell won't be open until Monday for me to ask Mark. I thought one of you might know. 

In case you get wildly curious, the tee I am talking about is located in the ceiling of the basement AC compartment on the passenger side. You don't have to remove any ceiling insulation to see it.

First off, thank you for any help. I have attached some pictures of my propane heat system and the box with the red light which I am not sure weather or not it is part of the propane heat or not. Overall I have no idea how to turn these heaters on or lite the pilot light. I see 2 of the 3 units have a sight glass where I assume I should see the pilot light. So any Idea how to turn these on would be appreciated.

We went from summer to fall in one day here. On my list of to do's for winter is to investigate why the block heater is drawing more than 20 amps, when it used to draw 10. With age do they degrade and have more resistance? It had been tripping the inverter ckt it is on, so I plugged it directly in to shore power, and it cooked my 15 amp 12 gauge ext cord after 60 minutes. I can't see where it enters the block, but it is in the passenger side lower block area. I think I am going to have to get greasy on this one!

I’m in the process of buying a 2004 Newell. This unit has brand new Michelin 315 Tires on it. My question is should I concern myself with the 365 upgrade? I was thinking about keeping the current tires until the next recommended tire change and then installing the 365s. In my current Diesel Pusher I rarely exceed 65 MPH.