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My full timer, agreed value insurance is renewing at the end of the month.  My current insurance has been going up and the renewal jumped $1300 to nearly double.  Plus the agency said no other agreed value was available from them.  So the search was on.

I contacted Melissa Thum of the Thum insurance agency.  They insure a good number of Prevosts with agreed value policies.  In no time she had me set up with Progressive Agreed Value policy with same coverage for less than I spent this year.  She was very easy to deal with and most accomodating.

If you wish to speak to her she is at 6 one 6 - nine 57 - 2400 or melissa at thuminsurance dot com

Has anyone thought about adding one of these 360 degree view cameras?

The trend is that all the cars will have them in about 15 minutes ....

https://wirelessprime.com/product/owleye...ng-system/


And HOW would you install it.  Is there a conduit or a loom where you could pull a cable fore and aft, and side to side?

From Harris County (Houston area), Texas comes a warning to check your towbar/hitch ball mount/draw bar for a secure connection. A vehicle was struck in the windshield by a hitch ball mount which had come loose from another vehicle. 

Sometimes it is easy to forget that something as simple as verifying the hitch locking pins are secure can save someone else from disaster. 



Fortunately, there was no one sitting in the passenger's seat when this drop hitch ball mount came through the windshield of an unsuspecting motorist on IH-45.

source: https://www.foxnews.com/auto/tow-hitch-s...r-in-texas

I was tracing a minor leak. One of the push-to-connects had a minor leak on the distribution block that feeds the slide seal pressure regulators. In the process of looking around I turned the plastic lever that looked like an on/off, but as soon as I did that it started leaking air and there are positions where it leaks less, but it still leaks. Do I have to replace the block with the plastic lever or is there some other way of sealing this, such as removing it and tightening something?

TIA
Mick

I had a leak in my rear toilet coming out from the flange on the hopper (tank) held together by 12 screws. 

The toilet was overflowing and the air pressure added after each flush was causing the hopper to purge at the flange, not out the discharge.

I added bio degradable sewer tank solution to the liquid in the tank, hoping it would slowly move towards the clog and break it down. Some of the water had passed over the 4 days after I left the solution in the hopper tank, but not all of it.  I obviously had a clogged discharge line. I removed the toilet after removing all the waste with a cut off water bottle on 2 sticks and lowering them down into the lower compartment or hopper box. 

I tried to snake the line but I only had a 5' of snake.  I should have tried harder, read on...

While the toilet was removed, I took the hopper box apart to seal it off better. The Microphor schematics say it has a 2 J bolts to hold the box on the China Bowl, mine has 2 phillips head screws. After removing the 2 screws, I tried to separate the box from the bowl, but somebody either glued it or there are more fasteners that I can't see. I didn't want to break anything so I re tightened the phillips and proceeded to removed the 12 small screws that split the hopper upper and lower box.  By the way, While the hopper box is attached to the China bowl, there are 2 screws that are extremely hard to get to. I got all of them out, cleaned the flange, lubed the rubber and carefully replaced all bolts and lightly re torqued them. I was being careful not to strip them. 

I reinstalled the toilet, plumbing and air line. I flushed 3 times and water came out of the flange again, but also out of the upper box where the hopper meets the china bowl. 

Today, I will remove the toilet and find a better, longer snake to run down the drain line.

I can't tell, but this should be a straight line to the tank, shouldn't it ? 

Should the hopper box leak as a fail point at 60 psi if the drain is plugged ?  Or am I expecting too much for it to remain sealed and air pressure bleading out the top pressure relief valve (if thats what it is) ?

I admit I haven't read every existing post on this fertile subject but will share my question anyhow.    I can hear a leak - it's at the rear slide seal where it splits under the slide - clearly audible from the outside.    Can anyone tell me what I need to take apart to get to these components?

Thanks in advance,
Chuck

Quad slide, bath and a half, Cummins ISX, Allison, https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

Hello all,
  Has anyone ever rebuilt the unloader valve on a DD60 Bendix compressor.  The actual rebuild looks very simple but getting to it not so much.  Was wondering it it would be easier to pull the compressor and do it on the bench or pull the alternator and do it in place.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Florida-1-Owner...:0&vxp=mtr

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2004-Ne...5004690628