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    Like many of you the decorative ring on our puck lights have bit the dust. I found a place to get some of them. didn't have gold when I ordered, so i chose bright chrome and brushed nickel. I tried attaching a picture of the lights and their info.

The company:

Builders Area I Glennys
100 Congress Ave, STE 2000 
Austin, TX 78701 
(ph) (888) 800-7789 
[email protected]

Ok so I guess it's on to the next challenge. I lost my dash heat last season. Might have to do with me pulling out the control board stretching the boden cable. The blowers work just no heat. I remember the previous owner telling me not to move the lever to far to the right otherwise I would be in for a ..... Wondering if somehow this could be cable related. 
Also noticed a micro switch on top of the controls that is activated by the temp slide knob. It has 3 wires, I checked for voltage and found voltage on the wire closest to the controller when the control knob was away from the switch in the cold position and no voltage on the wire on the opposite side in either position of the slide knob. I assume the mid wire is ground. Always wondered about the AC system which never worked and was told by Newell it's not worth fixing. Wouldn't it be something if the AC could be fixed with a new micro switch! Anyway more concerned about the heat for now.

I have been dealing with the mid-entry door not wanting to close. I had Newell replace the MAC valve and adjust it. It works for a while and then back to the original problem. In December '17 I was at Newell and had them look at the problem again. It was adjusted and worked for a while and recently it got to the point it would not close. I called Bode tech support and about the only things we have not tried is replacing the throttle valve and of course, opening things up looking for water or foreign matter in the lines. I talked to Newell again this afternoon and about the only thing they could possibly recommend was changing the throttle valve. 

I mentioned the no-rally rally in May and was curious if one of their experts could come down...that is being looked into on his end and I wanted to find out how many of us are suffering the same problems. He doesn't think they would approve a meet and greet unless there were enough of us. he did mention that if we had enough coaches with the same type problems he could possible bring parts, for sale of course, and try to solve some of our issues.

The tech at Bode is Keith Pulley. He was one of the original techs on our type doors. If he can't come to Foley and I still have the problem, I'm going to make a trip to Spartanburg and have them look at it. Being only about 500 miles away, it might be the best course of action.

if I could get a head count of those suffering the same issue, I will pass it to him and see what might happen.

I hope Im not overstepping my bounds

About 3 weeks ago our coach had an air regulator start leaking. This regulator 
Is in the wet bay on the curb side. I think it supplied air to the bath area. I replaced it and all was good!! 
Now we have a new leak. It’s also a regulator!
This one is on the drivers side under the kitchen area. To What does this regulator supply air?
At What pressure should it be set?

This is interesting. He is re purposing a Nissan Leaf battery for his Converted RV bus!!

https://youtu.be/K47NLwHyZng

I just received notice that Newell has received #1435 which will be listed for sale shortly. It has the 650 HP Cummins ISX, Allison 6 speed transmission, bath and a half, triple stacked bunk beds across from half bath. Price will be $1,099,000.

       

Here is a photo of the exterior from 5 years ago.
   

Hi All,

The speedometer in the bus is throwing fits...works fine for a while then the needle starts to jump around, goes to zero for a few seconds then bounces back...
Did anybody with a similar problem have any luck in getting it repaired or replace it with a new one that can be programmed for the miles and works in the 95-200x vintage ?
The part number on is: VDO 1-211-012-073A 12V
Thanks. Appreciate any input.

Hi all,

I want to change the white plastic coolant tank (cracked) with a new CRS300 by Arize and have proper recovery.
The kit I found (new) , came without the radiator cap that I think is somewhat special....should have been included but it is missing...
Can somebody take a picture of that cap ? I think it is a 7psi radiator cap but I am not entirely sure.
Anything special about it ? I would appreciate it if somebody can look and confirm.
Thanks

Recently my leveling system became DOA. It would activate the leveling solenoids but would not activate any leveling function including all up or all down. I performed the trouble shooting steps in the System 680 troubleshooting guide, but no dice. 

It took about 4 days for HWH to call me back, since their system is a first in, first out lineup. Once on the line, the tech asked me about the diagnosis I had already performed, and we determined that I should ship back both the control box and the control panel. 

At first, removing the control box appears to be a daunting task because of the gajillion connections. I stole an idea from @"Pardue101", and used colored zip ties to ID the connection points. To get more options I used double ties, and mixed the colors, to get enough differentation for all the connections. I think there were about 25 or so connections. 

Shipped the box off to HWH, and less than two weeks later it returns. Total cost was less than 200, and that included 70 of shipping. 

Took about two hours to hook everything back up, and voila, it works. 

Hats off to HWH. Good folks!

Recently my leveling system became DOA. It would activate the leveling solenoids but would not activate any leveling function including all up or all down. I performed the trouble shooting steps in the System 680 troubleshooting guide, but no dice. 

It took about 4 days for HWH to call me back, since their system is a first in, first out lineup. Once on the line, the tech asked me about the diagnosis I had already performed, and we determined that I should ship back both the control box and the control panel. 

At first, removing the control box appears to be a daunting task because of the gajillion connections. I stole an idea from @"Pardue101", and used colored zip ties to ID the connection points. To get more options I used double ties, and mixed the colors, to get enough differentation for all the connections. I think there were about 25 or so connections. 

Shipped the box off to HWH, and less than two weeks later it returns. Total cost was less than 200, and that included 70 of shipping. 

Took about two hours to hook everything back up, and voila, it works. 

Hats off to HWH. Good folks!