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Good morning all

Our original Amana refrigerator has completely died on us.  After installing new evaporator and condenser fans it worked well for a month or so but has stopped all together now.

We have found a new refrigerator that will work for us and we are going to pick it up this weekend. 

On the thread for our refrigerator, there was mention that the original Heart Freedom 25 could have contributed to the death of our refrigerator, being that it's not a pure sine wave inverter.

My concern with a newer and probably much more sensitive electrical system on the new refrigerator is that the old inverter could possibly damage the new unit. 

Our plan is to replace the old inverter with a new pure sine wave inverter/charger from Victron (probably) ASAP to prevent any electrical damage on the new appliances.

My big question is in regards to wiring the new inverter/charger. 

The original inverter powers 3 twenty amp breakers in a small breaker box right next to it.  The box is fed by a roughly 2' section 10/3 cable from the inverter to a 30A receptacle that then feeds the breaker box, which seems simple enough.  I'm guessing that this is 240v feed, but I have not checked yet.

The thing that is confusing me is that there is an external Corcom EMI Filter that comes out of the inverter and feeds off to somewhere.   I'm not sure what the purpose of this EMI Filter is or where it feeds to.

Unfortunately I have not found any paperwork for the original inverter in the coach and we do not have any coach wiring diagrams like we had with our Foretravel. 

I'm sure a lot of people have replaced the old inverter and I'd be grateful for any advice.

I have posted pictures of the inverter layout and the EMI Filter that I'm talking about.

Thank you
Tyler Phillips

Lower small (convex) mirror is loose. Just wobbles around.  How can I dismantle and reattach the mirror?

Hi everyone.  I have a 1983 Newell that I'm getting up to spec. Repairs are going nicely but the load center is starting to go out. I need to find a replacement which is easier said than done due to the age of it. The load center is a Square D QO 8-16 series L5. Sounds searching brought up a couple of L4's but I was wondering if anyone would happen to either know the whereabouts of another L5 or an equivalent loac center that would work due to the space confines. The load center sits in the back closet so space is limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


1983 Newell Coach 
40 feet Detroit 6v92
Charleston, Illinois

I was sent this from a friend and have to share it as it applies to many here. 

https://youtu.be/g8vHhgh6oM0?si=yuiQ9bqIr-KjHZ8s

With my Victron conversion, I have 2 Magnum 4024’s for sale.

1 was working when I removed it, though I would want it checked out before I installed it

The second 4024 may be repairable, but I did not look into that. It at least has some parts.  It shot flames out the front end in December 2024.  I did remove the cover and inspect it.  It does not look that bad, though somebody like the Inverter Service Center over in TN may disagree. 

I have both remotes that work fine. 

This setup was installed by M&M RV Electronics for the PO in 2017. 

$500 for the whole lot. 

I’d recommend pickup due to shipping costs. Possible delivery to the Northeast this summer.

I have a real ddec 1 and 2 scanner amalyzer. Not the silver leaf.  I will post pictures and model later.   I will figure out a price later I had this for my 1990 8v92.  If interested let me know.

Spotted a beautiful Newell Coach, dark  colors, pulling a stacker trailer southbound Interstate 35W  just North of DFW about 3:30 Pm Thursday March 20, 2025, we were Northbound. Too stressed to look for details more details, dealing with North Texas drivers. Only Newell we spotted from Dallas to Amana Iowa.

We are still in Gulf Shores area and met up with some friends we made from the last rally. He and I had a discussion over the phone about replacing the valves on the bottom of the front tanks that sit behind the front axle and prone to air leaking plus difficult to get to. One of the valves was up against the frame and totally impossible to open or take out without loosening up the mounts and shifting the tank, so I had an idea and we made a Lowes, Home Depot and Harbor Freight run and came back with the fittings to drain the tanks from the end of the tank where there is a 3/8" brass plug. We bought two 90 degree 1/4" mpt by 1/4" compression fittings and two 3/8" by 1/4" inch brass reducers and one 1/8" by 2" brass nipple and a small roll of 1/4" copper tubing. We cut the 1/8" brass nipple in two pieces then tapped the bottom side of the two 90 degree 1/4" mpt by 1/4" compression fittings with 1/8" MPT pipe threads and screwed the nipple into the bottom of the fitting then I cut about a foot of copper tubing and bent it to stick through the end of the tank and just touch the bottom of the tank then marked the tubing cut and soldered it into the 1/8" brass nipple. After putting pipe thread compound on the threads I installed the units in the end of the tank with the 90 degree 1/4" pointing down which is where the tubing is pointing at the bottom of the tank. 

I am terrible at explaining this but a picture is worth a thousand words. We drained at least 3 gallon of water from the tank that could not be accessed the other was dry.

Our #277 1991 Newell began leaking engine coolant from the front inline heat control valve located behind the front end. After much research, we've determined it is a "pull to open" 3/4" inlet/outlet heater valve. A Four Seasons #74764 (NAPA 935039) is an exact replacement.

Happy miles,
deg

We were 20 minutes into the trip when I noticed massive amounts of smoke coming from the left rear wheel area. We were on a two lane with no shoulder, lots of traffic and nowhere to pull over so we had to limp for a mile or so until we found a place to turn off.  I called Richard and he was gracious enough to put up with my very bad cell signal, and dropped calls to not only walk me through trouble shooting the issue but also a temporary field fix to get the coach home. As most of you know, the dude is unbelievable. I’ll try to be quick in describing what Richard had me do. First, the cause was a failed airbag. Once I got the coach jacked up (and fully cribbed) I crawled under and took some measurements from the axle and frame rail. I then cut some 4x4 posts to wedge in between. There wasn’t a clear spot to fit the 4x4 on the axle side, so I cut them down to 3x4. Once I had them wedged in pace, I lowered the coach and drove it home. The trip home was a very different experience. I didn’t dare go over 10 mph the whole way. It was literally like riding in a wagon with no suspension. It kind of felt like I wobbled home. We were lucky to be so close to home when it happened.  My wife was following me in the toad and told me that she saw the coach shift back down after we went over a bridge with a big hump in the middle. By the time I parked it, the rear had dropped some but was still clearing the tire. I think I will work on fabricating something that will fit a little better and carry them in the coach in case something like this ever happens again.
I got the old airbags off, but I had to cut the fittings for the 1” airline to do it. I should have the replacement fittings and be able to get the airbags installed this weekend. Will also be replacing the tire, which now has a fender-width grove about ½” deep. Oh yeah, cleaning all the burnt, melted rubber off the coach and the toad was a joyous occasion. What a PIA. I think it took longer than removing the airbags.
A big shout out to Richard for coming to the rescue. Also, to Jeff LoGuidice, who sent me a couple of used airbags so I can get the coach out of my driveway before the HOA starts legal proceedings.  The plan is to change all of the airbags, but I need to get it to my buddy’s shop to do the work.
I’d be interested to know if anyone has a good source for bags.