You are not logged in or registered. Please login or register to use the full functionality of this board...

  1. Newell Gurus
Latest Threads

Forum Statistics

  Rear zone (heater) also runs AC blower ?

Posted by: Gem930
12-09-2024, 08:25 AM
Forum: Heating Systems
- Replies (4)

I’m not sure if this is a problem or the way it’s supposed to work, but the rear AC blower motor runs when I turn on the rear aqua hot zone.  The radiator under the bed starts to pump out heat but the blower motor starts up too and makes it uncomfortable, because the blower motor is making it drafty.  Is this correct? Is there another radiator that is not working?  Or is there something wrong with my thermostat?  I feel like there might be another radiator I don’t know about because the front thermostat controls at least two radiators and the rear appears to only control one. Anyone know???

Thx

Gregg

Print this item

  Not building air pressure

Posted by: Jrahn56
12-08-2024, 11:57 AM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (5)

I have coach #375, after running at high idle for 30 minutes I have only 70 psi built up in brakes and supply. When I shut the engine I immediately lost my supply pressure with 3 minutes. I have drained all the tanks I could find, but that was 1 for the 12v compressor,  1 in the cross member by drive axle, and the brake tank that had a considerable amount of water built up. My coach utilizes a CR Brakemaster Model 62 air dryer. The air coming into the dryer is hot, the going air is cooler, but pressure coming in doesn't seem enough. I can hold my thumb over the fitting and stop the air. I've tried to get the air governor off the front of the compressor but the bolts are frozen tight. I've tried penetrating oil, but no luck. I wanted to try heat, but didn't want to damage the compressor. Can anyone help diagnose this problem?

Thanks,

Jeff Rahn

Print this item

  Slides stuck out! Help

Posted by: Gem930
12-08-2024, 10:49 AM
Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
- Replies (5)

Parked at kids house in California on a pretty slope driveway, but was able to level it using the airbags. Now trying to leave and I can’t get the yellow flashing light on the HWH to stop flashing and the excess slope is lit up on the controller, I’m guessing because the excess slope is lit. It will not allow the the slides to move. I’ve tried everything dumping the coach down, raising the coach up. I can get the coach almost perfectly level, but still can’t get the excess Sloope light to turn off. Any ideas? 
Gregg I’ll keep checking this, but if someone wants to call me that would be great too. 530-228-5399

Print this item

  Hey ya'll

Posted by: SpIcYDiEsEL504
12-07-2024, 04:22 PM
Forum: Please introduce yourself
- Replies (1)

hey yall,
names Travis from New Orleans, came here because I was searching for a C15 6NZ op and service manual. I do road side diesel assistance and also have a shop. Worked for Cummins for 8 years and freightshaker for 2. We also for Industrial Fabrication and welding. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

Print this item

  Leaking kitchen faucet and it's replacement

Posted by: Pluto
12-07-2024, 01:56 PM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (6)

The original Grohe kitchen faucet started leaking from back of the pull-out spray head.  I had tried to get it apart to see if we could fix it, but it wasn't coming apart.

We weren't very fond of the white plastic anyway so we took the opportunity and replaced it and the insta-hot faucet.

We found a matching pair of faucets, one for the main and one for the insta-hot on the website perigold.com that we really liked.  The brand is Brizo and they make some pretty cool stuff.

Just wanted to share a small update to the coach.
(Please ignore the stained blinds, they're also on the short list for updating lol)

Print this item

  dash air condenser

Posted by: [email protected]
12-07-2024, 07:42 AM
Forum: Air Conditioning
- Replies (2)

I have a york compressor. Discharge line runns forward but I have not found the condenser/fan. Searched forum but did not find reference.
JD

Print this item

  This is going to stir things up

Posted by: Jack Houpe
12-07-2024, 07:00 AM
Forum: Slides
- Replies (6)

I have heard more horror stories about slides than I want, we all have had problems with the HWH slides and its safeguards which in a way make their product unreliable and expensive to repair besides to say obsolete now. HWH has one hydraulic pump which controls slide locks, raises floors, moves slide in and out all controlled by a brain that must have certain criteria met in order to have valves switch open and close to send fluid to each hydraulic ram one at a time. Many limit switches control this process and the brain hopefully can get the right solenoid open to make the magic happen. Why didn't they use a 12vdc double action hydraulic pump for each hydraulic ram? My count is 3 pumps for a 2 slide coach, 1 for main slide, 1 for floor up and down, and 1 for rear slide. These pumps have a single valve that opens to pump and closes to hold so no need for locking pins as hydraulics does not compress. I would bet the DC amps required to operate these hydraulic rams to me minimum, two pumps could be located where the old unit is and 1 under the bed in the back. Use the existing limit switches to control lights for full in or full out, floor up or floor down up and down and when the light comes on or you hear the pump load quit pressing the switch. The electrical part of the system could be simplified by using just relays, and momentary switches for reversal of the hydraulic pump. You would still have to turn a key to activate the system and bleed the air seals.. Gordon and I briefly talked about something different awhile back and my head has been spinning. Looking forward to feedback on this and I may use our coach as a test vehicle. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305345588847?_s...BMjJrYk_Rk

Print this item

  Rear body repair in early 80’s models

Posted by: Schaepert
12-06-2024, 03:25 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (4)

Have any owners with old 80’s riveted bodies ever run into this issue(see photos below)?

Rear sidewalls/corners of the coach where multiple aluminum bows line up. Rivets are damaged or none existent and has cause pretty large gap that can even be seen on the inside. 

Any advice would be appreciated, I don’t really know where to start with this one. Thank you!

Print this item

  Shop air did not pop my slide seal …BUT

Posted by: Gem930
12-05-2024, 10:11 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (7)

Ok I’m starting another thread about my air system saga that is hopefully less convoluted.  First off I got my 120v compressor back on line.  It was two separate problems.  One, the one way check valve was bad and two… the unloaded solenoid was bad. It is working now (aside from occasionally blowing the 20 amp breaker).  My coach has a raised bed slide on the drivers side and a dropping floor slide on the passenger side.  Both slides have vacuum systems added to the regulators and two way valves in the lower compartment that switched between regulated pressurized air to fill the seals and vacuum to deflate them.  I found one (drivers side - same as was having loud seal leak before ) had a vacuum pump that was blown apart.  During trouble shooting the system , I found a piece of teflon tape stuck in the 2 way Parker valve not allowing the valve to completely close in either direction.  The valve was open to the vacuum pump during pressurizing the seal and it caused the pump to blow apart.  I repaired the valve and the replace the pump and thought all was well…. Until this morning.  We spent the night in Reno on our way to California for a late thanksgiving.  Woke up this morning and fire up the 60.  After few seconds I started to hear air hissing inside the coach.  It was coming from under the head board ( just like before).  I ran outside and heard air hissing from the seal regulator (drivers side again) in the lower compartment an the passengers side.  The regulator was venting heavily, but the pressure read 70 psi.  I ran over to the drivers side seal and heard the air hissing (yes over the sound of the engine).  I ran back inside and shut the engine off and stabbed the brake several times.  The hissing from the rear finally stopped. ( I also learned my low air alarm is not working.)  Anyway after I bled the system down with the brake I fired it up again and all was fine???? What the heck.  It was below freezing so wondering is some check valve may have froze up.  I’m totally confused!!! Any ideas?

Print this item

  A/C resistor for dash AC on P2000i

Posted by: justinn
12-05-2024, 12:22 PM
Forum: Air Conditioning
- Replies (12)

If you have an issue with the dash A/C fan only working on High, I found a cross reference for the resistor(there are two if you have passenger controls also).

Motorcraft D8BH19A706AB    or D8BZ19A706A  for a 1979 to 1981 Ford Mustang

I have attached a picture of the back side which shows the plug configuration. I am sure there are more cross-references out there, but I have verified this works. Setting 1 and 2 may be the same speed(hard to tell), but 2-4 definitely increase blower speed. I have tested this for a couple of trips and everything is working great.

   

Print this item


  1. Newell Gurus