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Rhonda and I are finally in our Florida home. We have a 60 ft drive with full hookups. Stop by sometime.

Forest, Mel told me this morning that your 98 is coming back if you would like to own it again.  The owner who bought it had the inside completely redone.  Mel said he spent a lot of money on it.  I think you should jump on it, because we would like to have you back. He is trading it on the 06 Newell with the yellow stripe that MOT has now.  He is also having a lot done to it before he takes delivery.

well here we in NH 1700 miles from home in FL and the second radiator failure in as many years. Newell first replaced radiator with a new Atlas Sept. 2011, radiator failed Oct 2013 and Creative Coach replaced with a new Atlas radiator; now Sept 2016 radiator failure again. There must be a cause for this so the radiator lasts more than 24 months, Atlas disavows all responsibility, despite my insistence that regardless of warranty period the radiator should last ten years approx(the original radiator in our 1999 Newell was 12 years old when it failed). We monitor pH and change the coolant filter once a year. Same failure problems appears to be corrosion along the bottom of the radiator.
Need help from anyone out there with same experience or a knowledge base.
Thanks

    1999 Newell, Coach #538

My front AC does not operate. After checking for any obvious signs of damage, aside from dust, the only visible difference between the front and middle AC was that the front AC control module has some oil residue on the bottom plate and a few wires, which it appears to have discolored. I don't see where it originated from, but maybe it leaked from the black component secured under the metal strap seen in the attached picture.

So I have a new issue that seems to come and go with the time of day. When I start the engine, the 'Check Engine' and 'Stop Engine' light are on but go off, except sometimes they both come back on in less than 10 seconds and the engine will shut off accordingly. But then without touching anything, I can start it back up and it'll run fine.  
I was driving through Indiana last summer and had a similar issue that turned out to be caused by a bad coolant temp module. We had to spend the night on a deserted offramp, but fortunately the mobile mechanic, who showed up the next morning, happened to have a 'vintage' scanner that fit and could read the coaches error codes.  Mobile RV tech's with the appropriate scanner are a rare breed in my area, so I'm reaching out here.  
Thanks in advance for any help.

Was going camping last week and noticed rising water temps and white smoke on acceleration.
Pulled over and found coolant leaking from between head and body of air compressor. Pulled supply line
from intake manifold and found some there also. [Think this was the cause of white smoke on take off]
Anyway, found and ordered new compressor and installed. All good for about 50 miles, then, same symptoms, 
except air pressure was falling also. This time water was was coming from back of head gasket area instead of front. 
I realize my air dryer filter is probably bad and needs replacing, but after installing new compressor, noted
pressures and recovery time after using brakes or leveling and all appeared normal. D2 valve seemed okay, running
about 125 psi before unloading. At $800+ for compressor plus core charge, would sure like to know what 
caused same problems on two compressors. By the way, previous owner had also replaced compressor, do not
know why. To get home, bypassed water to compressor head, lit off gen and hooked up my cheap harbor freight 
compressor to air system and made it back to the house. [not recommended if you have to stop very often]
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated.
Jim

we are currently just over border in Arkansas . We just drove 500miles and have another 1600 more coach is running awesome . Needs a lil tlc but I have converted a bus before and this will be a breeze and so sweet when done. Everything does work though so just lil things like new carpet and curtains and outside detailing maybe coat of clear . Did I say she runs so awesome 80 mph all day and never over 180deg going through Texas  at 95 deg !

It started as a very light vibration sometimes on the highway.
Since it was intermittent, it was hard to know if it was the road or the coach.

Last trip out was a short one, but I noticed the vibration a little bit more on the trip home.

Then, this happened just a few miles away -  

http://wspa.com/2016/09/14/rv-crashes-th...c-on-i-26/

http://www.wyff4.com/news/sky-4-live-rv-...6/41662798

So, I decided to check the front bearings.

Pass side - The wheel turned smoothly & silently. The pink grease looked new.

Driver's side was a different scene.- The wheel turned smoothly, but I could hear a faint rolling sound. The pink grease was still evident, but is very dark inside the bearing. There was also a very faint rust trail from the spindle nut down.

Looks like I'll be replacing the bearings & seals soon.

Went up this morning to check water in my batteries as I do once a month.  I always check the inverter panel and the inverter was charging and said batteries were good and 13.8 volts.  It is an Outback inverter.  Open up the door that has 4 of the six 8-Ds in it and the top two was hot and when I took the caps off they were boiling. I did not smell any sulfur. The other four were cool and not boiling.  I don't recall ever seeing this before but do usually check the water when they are charging.  My volt meter read 12.8 on each battery.  I did not disconnect the cables to check the voltage and there is no corrosion.   Soon after, I looked at the inverter panel again and it had stopped charging and said the batteries were in good condition and was 12.6 volts. The batteries are 4 years old and in the 3 and half years I've owned the coach they have never run dry.  Should I be concerned.