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Hey all,

   If you are using your Aquahot for heat on diesel and/or electric, check your radiator cap for slight leaks. I had some and they were close to drowning the front of the unit with coolant. That's where all the wires are including a set for 240v.

The replacement is cheap and easy.

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8N3IM?ref...asin_title

Worth a check.

Have always had a rattle up front and while reinstalling radio I found the culprit.  There are three screws that are just loose in these holes that don’t seem to bite on anything.  These are at the bottom near the A/C vents.

Anyone else ever have this and figure out a work around?

Mark Robertson in Ft Wayne In . I purchased #266 1991 41'
That won't do anything from switch on column, transmission doesn't respond to toggle switch on left armrest, tachometer doesn't read and won't rev much with pedal. When fast idle turned on momentarily idles up then falls back to normal idle.
I've not been able to spend much time on it yet as I'm trying to finish something else unrelated but intend to have a lot more free time in a couple weeks as I'm retiring. I've fiddled and fixed for 50 some years and hope to a few more.

Hi all.  Looking for a late 90's 40-42 foot non-slide coach with a Detroit 60.  Anyone have any hidden gems they haven't posted yet?

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

Figure I would take a shot in the dark!  I have a ZF differential and the rotors are shot on the drive axle.  I have two new rotors and brake pads, but to get the hub off requires a specific nut wrench from ZF.  It is part number 5870401146.  The crack in my rotor makes it a bit scary to consider driving to Newell to have them do the work.  There is a mechanic in Phoenix, AZ that has replaced those rotors on a Newell before, but that one was a different year and different axle so unfortunately he doesn't have the tool but is more than capable to do the work, just needs the slotted nut wrench.

Just checking to see if anyone has one for sale or that is willing to rent?

       

Millwright and coach mechanic in Vancouver British Columbia starting to familiarize myself with the ins and outs of newell coaches, i have been put in charge with maintaining a friends #545 after it has been sitting for 5 years in his back yard. Yes i can provide mobile service within a200 mile radius of Vancouver BC. and have a facility in Langley BC. I do a lot of custom lighting and exterior mods as well as a fair bit of automation and HMI interface. thanks for the warm welcome and im certainly looking for any help i can get clearing the cobwebs from #545

Good morning everyone - we are experiencing 120V compressor issues. Last night we arrived in St Augustine, FL and I noticed the supply pressure was down to 60lbs and the compressor was not running. Checked and it was very hot, like it had gone into thermal overload. So I left it off until this morning. Turned it on, pressure charged from zero to 105 and then stopped as it should. When pressure dropped to 70 I thought "it should be on by now ..." went out and checked it and it was hot and felt like it was buzzing, like the start capacitor had failed or the compressor has seized.  It is the Thomas compressor with the Spartan Scientific (Viton) pressure switch/regulator.

I like Richard's idea of replacing the Viton switch/regulator and will likely do this when I get the coach back home. However, in the meantime we would like to continue our road trip. I see some people have suggested replacing the Thomas with a small all-in-one unit from Harbor Freight - is this something that could be a full time replacement? it looks a little light duty for the coach, but it's self contained, only needs a 120V feed, and it's inexpensive.

Is there any issue running the coach without the 120V compressor? As I understand it's major function is to keep the coach level when the engine is not running - the 12V compressor can handle the doors and potties when parked overnight (have to work on finding level spots!)

Dave

Coach # 439 1997 45'

Been reading some posts about the Newell basement AC units. I have owned my coach for 12 years and never really had many problems with the AC's other than in our Texas heat they have a hard time in the heat of the day. Have always just had them serviced at the factory or at the RV repair shop I use here in Ft. Worth. I have a problem now, the rear unit will not function and throws the breaker (in main breaker box) as soon as you turn it on. My owners manual indicate the units were manufactured by RVAC Inc. in Coppell,TX.. Obviously they are out of business. Do any of you know anyone that is familiar with these units and can work on them, or can a regular HVAC Tech. work on them? Have also been reading were some of you are upgrading to new units. Just seeking a little advice.

Thanks,
Greg McCann

Anyone replace the exhaust tip so that the exhaust goes out road side instead of all over towed vehicle. Our coach has the flared outlet that comes straight out. Does not look as simple as buying an elbow as the body skirt does not have a recess on drivers side like it does now straight aft.

My driveway is very steep. I managed to bring my coach to the house and got it into the driveway with lots of patience and blocking. Now that I'm much more familiar with the systems inside the coach does anyone know what the max over lift is using the HWH raise feature? From where my coach is currently sitting I've got the rear raised about 4 inches just using the HWH. This may not seem like much but the angle its parked at right now when in travel mode, the receiver hitch is touching the ground when aired up. So 4 inches is miles. My thought was not that i rebuilt the Aqua Hot i can just spin the exhaust pipe out and wont need as much clearance to get out of my driveway. I currently don't have the under coach pipe that goes through the roof. I will replace that when i move and have a more level driveway. The generator exhaust just needed an 8 foot 2x6 to lift the front end enough to clear. If i had 4 extra inches of height... I don't think ill need blocks at all.
I do know that the over lift will be limited to the total height of the bags. I was just wondering if anyone had a measurement, or a timeline of how long it can stay like that?

On a side note. Does anyone know where the leveling(ride height control valve) for the drivers seat is? Or should i just disconnect the air line?