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• Latest member:JeffreySammons

I’m reworking the entertainment center and dash stereo in my coach and no longer need to switch between sources for the overhead speakers. I removed and rewired the three relays above the driver seat that switch between the receiver and dash head units for the speakers, but not sure what this last relay is for…. does anybody know?

I have been getting a lot of info from the forum and finally feel like I have an opportunity to give back. In my quest to fix everything wrong with my new to me Newell #639 , I talked to a tech at Silverleaf about options for replacing my burnt out VMS 200. He told me they are about to release a VMS 500 which is touchscreen and plugs right into the interface of the old 200 and it fits in the same opening as well, but has a larger color touch screen.  He is going to let me know when they are available. I will post when I find out. Unfortunately he had no pricing information.

We are selling our 1994 series 60 #365
New tires 2020
New air bags
New shocks
New starting batteries 
20kw yanmar generator with 10,000 hours
Series 60 detroit with 330,000 miles 
Nocold refrigerator 
3 electric heaters 
2 propane heaters 
4 basement airs 3 work 
Make offer
Please call with any questions 573-291-1718 Matt 
Located lake of the ozarks Missouri

Checked hydraulic pressure in rear tag and found I only had 50 psi on the hydraulic side and 50 psi on the nitrogen side, coach drove fine , would back up and the rear wheels turned the way they should, accumulator is probably original, 20 years old. Good chance bladder is ripped, I wonder if the best way is to remove the accumulator and turn it so the fill port is at the top, let it sit for a while so the nitrogen can make its way to the top and let nitrogen out, or do I let out oil at the junction block and hope nitrogen does not end up in the system

Greetings,


What's the safe way to bypass a slides hydraulics.  I have a leaking cylinder and it's going to be while before I can deal with it.

Can I just cap off the Extend and Retract lines at the front manifold?

I'm assuming I have to relieve the pressure first.  From the forum I see I need to turn the screw on the solenoids 3-4 turns.  Is that counter clockwise?  Is that all I have to do to relieve the pressure?  It might already be relieved based on the volume of fluid all over the front of the rear passenger tires.

Is the proper solenoid directly across from the given line?

All my lines are labeled but of course it's Right Rear extend/retract and Left Rear Extend/Retract.  Is the Passenger side right?

Once I cap it off do I return the solenoid to it's normal position or leave it relieved (x turns the opposite direction)?

Should I cap off the lines as well?

I have hydraulic slide locks, is it ok to drive the coach after I block of the lines?  I have new front 365's about to show up in theory so I need to get to the tire shop.


Thanks

Frank

Im working through a few air system problems on my coach (obvious from my many posts, I’m sure)  Is the 120v compressor only controlled from the HWH controller in auto level mode?  It suddenly stopped working and I’m trying to figure out where to start trouble shooting.  The compressor works fine when plugged into an uncontrolled ( by HWH or regulator or whatever) outlet.  
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PS ,  I looked through my manuals and was unable to find any kind of a schematic. Is that something that is normally supplied?

Working on getting ride height correct.  The left rear height control valve seem to only work intermittently and even when working would never get the coach to 12”.  The right side seems to work, but will only ever get to 11.75 inches as well.  11.75 is close enough to 12” to be ok with, but my concern is I have the airbags maxed to get to 11.75.  Stated another way, when I installed the new HCV I held the lever up (prior to connecting it to the bar going to the frame and was only ever able to reach 11.75”.  The engine was running and the pressure was 120psi.  I know the airbags were replaced by the previous owner.  I also know the original bags are not available and an adaptor is required to use the new replacement bags.   My question is are the new replacement bags also shorter?  Anyone else have this problem???

Hello everyone!
I’m happy to be here on Newell Gurus and looking forward to connecting with fellow Newell owners and enthusiasts. My appreciation for motorhomes, especially Newell coaches, has grown over the years, and it’s exciting to join a community where I can learn and share experiences.
Beyond my interest in luxury motorhomes, I like to keep busy with a variety of hobbies. Whether it’s RV trips, exploring new destinations, fishing, boating, or getting behind the wheel of off-road vehicles, I love anything that lets me enjoy the great outdoors. I’m also a fan of tinkering with RC planes and cars, and when I’m not out and about, you might find me working on small DIY projects or planning my next road trip.
I recently added a Newell coach to my adventures and can’t wait to hear your tips and stories. Looking forward to some good conversations and learning from this knowledgeable community.
Cheers!

Hey Gurus,

I have a problem that REALLY STINKS. A crack in the black tank. I would like to do a permanent fix, not a flex seal approach. Does anyone know what plastic was used for 2009 era black tanks? I am also open to experienced perpectives on welding vs solvent glues. Attached is a pic with three arrows showing three streams running out of the crack. The crack is along the passenger side rear aspect of the wastemaster tunnel. I swear you can't smell this just by looking.
Regards,
Bob
   

I wanted to troubleshoot a ride height issue I have been having with "new to me" coach #639. The left rear of the coach only cames to ride height occassionally.  Since my muffler has seen better days (yet another job) I decided shop air might be a better option rather than upsetting my neighbors running the engine for air.  There are two air chucks in the right side engine bay.  The front one appears to be connect to a regulator, but has no air at all.  The rear one had pressure then the engine was running so I thought it was the correct place to connect shop air.  Prior to connecting the air line I ran the coach enginge unitl to brake and source tanks read 120 psi.  Then, prior to connecting the shop air I connected a pressure gauge to the rear chuck and verified there was 120 psi.  Since there was, I was unconcerned about connecting shop air.  I set the shop air regulator to 120 psi, verified it with the same pressure gauge and connected it up.  I made my way around to the left rear axle and heard and new sound.... a large air leak coming from the slide seal directly above the wheel well.  Did I pop the seal? 
  
I disconnected the air and the system completely bled down withen an few minutes.  I pinned the door closed with a stick, walked into my house and made a stiff drink.  

Any ideas?


Gregg