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I tried the search function on this but (as usual) I could not get the answer. 
I have almost no hot water out of my shower valve. From the amount of crap I have pulled out of my screens. In other faucets its likely the screen is  plugged. I cannot figure out how to get the temperature control knob off. There is no removable cap on the front of the knob to conceal a set screw. Does anybody know how to get this thing apart?  Additional info:  Hot water in all other faucets works great so I doubt it’s the mixing valve at the aqua hot.  Thank you.

My #1 pump isn’t spinning. There’s a bit of a shaking sound and I see the motor shimmy a bit, but it doesn’t turn. It’s drawing 2A, then drops off in a cycle - looks like is turning it on, then shutting down because of over current, then repeats every few seconds. Is this the motor, or is there something else like a stuck one way valve? I’ve tapped both the motor and the one way and nothing changed. Any definitive diagnosis or further tests that are worth trying?

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Has anyone used Amsoil ATF in the hydraulic system? not sure what came out of my system that I drained.
Thanks
JD

We are at a campground in Laurel,MS 
Had 3 ceramic space heaters plugged in around the coach to get us by for the night.  Wifey turned on the microwave and blew something. The bedroom heater is  running but the front living room area and bath areas and microwave and fridge are not running
- we checked the gfci in the bath area and it is good but no power. 
- checked the breaker in the driver side bay inverter compartment and it is not working. 
Not sure how to check output on the inverter but it an old Freedom 25 that I was planning to replace :-( 
We can run the Aquahot on electric and diesel so we won’t freeze but worried about the fridge… 
I’ll check each outlet with an amp meter to see if they are indeed working or not.

Afternoon everyone. Rear slide hwh board went dark last week. Working through the system systematically. All fuses and relays check good, no power going to the solenoids, jumping 12 volts to the solenoids will allow the slide to operate. No power going to the lock unlock solenoids either however the rear lock has already been bypassed. Front slide works great. Seems to be a board issue at this time but wanted to ensure the limit switches are not playing a part. Disassembled the bed and checked the extend limit switch easy, however the retract limit switch is MIA. Anyone knows where it's hiding? Picture of my limit switch is attached. Thanks everyone!

Jesse and Sara White
2001 Newell Coach 2 Slide - 582
Wasilla Alaska

My low air beeper has stoped working.  The light in the dash still comes on, so I’m sure it’s the beeper itself or a wire has come loose.  Not sure where to look, so I thought I’d ask here first.  I know no two Newells are alike, but does anybody have any idea where I should start looking?

Started my 48v lithium battery conversion.  Since I won’t have time to install the 48v Victron inverter before our Christmas  trip, I’m just wiring a few of the batteries in parallel for now. I had to take care of some minor rust (much better shape than the wet bay!!!) and it looks great now.  I really like the Ospho rust converter.  I scraped the bad areas, treated first with Ospho, then Rustolum rust restorer and then paint.  Looks much better.  I should have gotcha better “before” pic.  Also, it’s amazing how much better the battery trays slide with little grease and 1/2 the weight!

I’m switching out my batteries and inverter to a 48 volt victron system.  This is obviously causing me to have to rework the 12v systems in the coach.  Most of what I need to accomplish can be done with a 48 to 12 volt Dc to dc converter (or actually 2) but the generator start system has me thinking an independent start battery might be the best option.  I suppose I could change the generator start over to the chassis batteries (as I’m going to with the slide hydraulic motors) but I fell like having its own battery may be a good idea.  I could always wire up a starter relay to the chassis batteries as a back up.  Can anybody think of a reason why I shouldn’t do this and any recommendations on a battery size. Just for fun I used my 330 cca  lawnmower battery and it seemed to start the generator fine, but it was a brand new battery.

What is the typical value on the engine air filter pressure gage after new filter is installed. Cleaned mine , shows 11 inches H2O.

Greetings,

Base on all the reports on replacing this bar and with my coach having 240K+ miles on it...

I'm trying to figure out the correct bar for my coach.  It's 2001 #593.  Base on the drawings from the thread  

Ridewell Drawings (https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7524) post#5  I do have the Ridewell 246003 Drive Suspension based on my plate.

It's showing item 43 "Sway bar Tpin A=27.25"  Part no: 5037046B323

I can't tell if this is the same as the meritor 5111 version?  Does this seem correct.

Anyone have another source for this part.  I tried the link from Jeff's reply in thread https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8107&page=4  but it's showing out of stock now.  And I certainly do not want to remove this before I can get a new one.  

Thanks

Frank