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New owner of coach #485 1...
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Steering rod 614610A — ca...
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Allison operating temps
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Coach 384 For Sale
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Merge Solenoid
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Camping at Newell Factory
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A Day in the Life - Trave...
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With two alternate titles. The first is gratitude to Steve Bare (rheavn) for showing us all how to make one of these. The second alternate is, FOLLOW YOUR OWN ADVICE KNUCKLEHEAD!
The background is that I have lived with, fretted with, and gotten aggravated with a slow leak down on the left rear corner of the coach when parked. It makes the bed tilt head down slightly because of the east west bedroom slide. That gives me acid reflux. Yeah, I know, more info than you needed.
Air bags two years old. I have been under there a dozen times with soapy water and could not find a leak. Six pack rebuilt sometime in the past few years. I concluded that the ping tank that is between the six pack and the air bags must be leaking. The solution to that is bypass the ping tank. In preparation for that I bought all the necessary DOT fittings and tubing to make that happen. I had all the goodies in a bag for the last year just waiting on a slow couple of days to do the work.
Now, if you had presented me with that problem, I would have told you to install an isolator rig between the six pack and the exit line for that side to confirm which side of the system the leak was on. Nah, I don’t need to do that, after all others have had ping tank leaks, why should my coach be any different.
I had a little chat with myself, and said self ‘take the time to use the isolator’.
Well, dang.
I installed said isolator which took about 15 minutes. It tool longer to get out the tools than it did to install it. Aired up the coach, inflated the bags, noted pressures on both sides of the shutoff valve, and then closed the valve. The next morning I said Hmmmmm when I saw the pressures. The air bag side was steady at 100. And the six pack side was lower at 80. I cranked the coach, left the shutoff valve closed, and let the supply side build to 120, and the six pack side raised to 120.
That told me that the air bag, hoses, ping tank, and fittings were not leaking.
It told me two more things. One the raise solenoid is leaking because the pressure decreased to the supply pressure. Two, the check valve in the six pack which is supposed to prevent pressure from the air bags from feeding back into the supply line was leaking.
Of course, took the six pack out, used a kit from Tom and refreshed the solenoids. Took out the check valves and installed new o rings on the sealing section.
Problem solved without two days under the coach rerouting air lines.
This is really a long winded way of introducing some of our newer members to a very handy tool to have on board for diagnosing and not guessing when it comes to air leaks. Looking at the pics, the middle part is easy to comprehend. Pics of the air line ends show one female setup and a male setup on the other end .In this case it was for 1/4 tubing, but you can see the rig is made to simple disconnect the air line in question and insert the isolator.
Thanks again Steve.
For those of us having the older Dometic DN1070 under counter ice maker, my repair guy has a good solution.
If the unit is still cooling, but leaking water, or making bad ice, or no ice, he has a good solution. He identified the ice maker itself as a Whirlpool made item. Our coach, a 1991 # 277's ice maker had 1989 date on it. It was leaking water and making bad ice, sometimes.
My repairman installed a new Whirlpool part # 1129313 ice maker which includes a new water valve. You'll need thermo-conductive mastic or RTV to seat the ice maker on the cold plate. You do have to butt splice the harness together. You'll use the old connector and part of the harness with part of one of the new harnesses provided to fabricate the new connector harness. He said to just match the colors, green to green, white to white etc. The new harness will slip in from the rear and plug right into the new maker in the box.
Now, lots of ice and NO water in the ice box! Just clean ice.
What happens is the gearbox on the motor will shed a tooth or two and the cam will just stop moving which may keep the water flowing, or the heater on, or just stop all actions. In any event, the new ice maker will correct that all of those problems.
He ordered from a parts place in Chicago.
If you have cooling problems, I think he said the compressors are still made in Brazil.
Nice to have ice!
deg
Newell Construction From The Ground Up Video
This video can be a great tool. It allows a view of the innards which helps guys like us to see how to repair Stuff!
Our thoughts go out to all of our gurus and friends in the path of Helene. Hope everyone was able to either evacuate or get to higher ground.
Take care my friends.
Well, I’m starting to sweat a little. It appears Holland Coach in Michigan is still unwilling to provide even the most basic of communication with the seller of the coach I’m buying. Apparently, the slide seal is completed and they said last Wednesday they would have the tag axle bearings seals, caliper and pads by Monday. It’s now Thurs and they are unwilling to even verify if the parts are, in fact, at their shop. Let alone verify to the seller that he can pick the coach up tomorrow. I’m flying in Sunday night and starting to worry. I realize there’s two sides to every story and most of what I’m getting to second hand from the seller, but I have actually talked to them twice and have been less than impressed with their customer service. I don’t suppose anybody on the forum has a contact number for any upper management in the company?
Coach 435 was broken into years before i got it and the Aqua-Hot had an electrical fire. In an effort to not replace the system with a new or refurbished unit i decided to tackle this project myself.
First thing to do was identify the problem.
Problem found
What caused this issue? Was it from the vandals? or something else entirely?
Guess i didn't get a picture of that but it turns out the 120 element had shorted internally and caught fire.
The next thing to do was see where it was leaking from. I was unable to tell where it was coming from while it was in the coach so..
time to remove it and leak check the tank
Once it was fully removed from the coach i removed all the covers by drilling out the rivets. I still couldn't make a definitive pinpoint on the leak. At this point i unsoldered all the copper pipes and removed the tank and coil. I took it over to the hose and flushed it out with water a couple times and discovered the 120 element was the source of the leak.
At this point i went to the local ACE and bought 2 caps for the 1/2 inch pipes and 2 1 inch plugs for the heater element holes. Slapped some pipe dope on everything and filled it with water in the yard.
I made sure the tank was sitting level and left it for a 24 hour leak down test. When i checked it the next afternoon the water level seemed the same with no visible wetness to speak of. The black mastic had been soaked in coolant from leaking out of the burned up 110 element.
The tank and coil seemed to be fine so, This can be saved. I went through the website at https://www.heatmyrv.com and placed an order for parts.
While I'm waiting on the parts i figured id make a few improvements as well (like shutoff valves on ALL lines) and ordered new insulation for it and got it all cleaned up.
Most of the parts should be here Friday so i can complete the rebuild. The new overflow tank and coolant wont be here for another week as they are ground freight only and I'm in Alaska.
Parts i ordered from heatmyrv were aqua hot specific everything else i got from Amazon. I'm not spending 56 bucks for a fuse block, nor will i spend 39 bucks for a plastic overflow tank. Especially when i can get a polished aluminum one for 29.
A couple weird things i notice thou was the lack of shut-off valves for each loop so one doesn't have to drain the entire system to change an element. Another being why are they using horizontal flow valves on a vertical system? Using the right valves would help prevent the sticking people experience. I'm still trying to figure out how i can adapt a household 240v thermostat to the system because 450 bucks for a 40 dollar thermostat is ridiculous. For now it will be a 110 and diesel operation.
Ill continue this thread as the parts arrive and get added into the system.
lHi gurus - we have taken possession of coach 646 and are loving the experience so far. This board has been both helpful and inspirational in our adventure from Phoenix to the east coast.
My question (actually the Boss' question) - how can we tell what material the floors and countertops are made from? It looks like marble floor, but it is? It looks like Corian countertops, but is it? Is this something we can contact Newell about or is there fairly standard floors and counters installed in every Newell, even though they are all custom?
We are trying to restore them to like new, but we need to know what we are working with.
Thanks very much in advance,
Dave and Tammy
I searched the term relay and read through 11 pages of post to see if this was covered. I could not find it. As a lot of you are aware the coach i bought had been broken into and as much of the wiring they could get their hands on had been stolen. I have completely rewired the underside of the coach and all systems work as far as i can tell. Only issue i found after rebuilding the underside power panel is I don't know what this relay and circuit breaker is for. Marked in picture with white arrows.
I’m trying to find Info on coach number 639 (The coach I’m in the process of buying) If I enter 639 in the search bar I get a gazillion hits! It seems like it’s hitting on any 6 3 or 9. I tried using “639” and that does not work either??? Any help would be great!!!
Thx Gregg
Has anyone tried to update their coach bay doors using linear actuators instead of the gas struts? I was thinking, if if replaced the struts with linear actuators and then drilled a hole for a push button open close, that would be pretty cool.
push a button on the door you want to open and it opens. Push the button again and it closes. I could take the power from the power locks and run the actuators is what i was thinking.
Thoughts?

