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Does anyone have a source for the interior door & cabinet latches in the 2020P model coach.  They appear to be Southco MP-04-33-55.  The plastic fingers that push the magnet allowing the door/drawer to open broke on one of mine.

Waiting 3 hours for Newell tech to call back to give instructions on how to reset door code. 
Maybe somebody here can Answer exact how to. The #9 button is in op and will not accept open code. Not locked out but can't lock up.found test button but need next steps.
Thanks

Not to be cryptic. This is a Public Service Announcement.
After some recent issues with the starter batteries, I thought it might be a good idea to check on the house batteries. It had been a while. 
For #300, I have two house batteries, and they are held in a stainless-steel battery box located on the left side of the engine compartment. The box is covered by a plexiglass lid. I used to try to keep it cleaned off, but it was a losing battle, and I finally gave up (not a good idea).

When I removed the lid the first thought I had was that I never realized the battery box had a sloped bottom and the batteries set at an angle. Then I looked to the sides and saw a 3" gap between the top of the box and where it was supposed to be. The welds on the front edge and sides of the box had broken and the box was just hanging on by the backside welds. 

Not a difficult fix but very thankful I found it before we head out next week. I don't know how long it has been like this. It was probably a year ago when I was in that compartment. We rewelded all of the old welds and added a few more. For extra security, I added some stainless angle along the front and sides. Should be good to go now. I have the same set up for my starter batteries but No weld issues on that side. I will probably beef it up some as well.

I've added this to my check list. if you have this set up, it might be worth checking on it every now and then.

Was hoping to use my new to me Jun-Air 6-4 on my upcoming trip tomorrow, but by reading through some old posts it just hit me that I don't have an oil separator.  The compressor came with a Norgren B07-280-M1MG which to me purely looks like a pressure regulator and filter.  Could someone shoot me in the right direction as to what a good separator would be?  Also does it get placed before that Norgren or after?

Would also love to know for those that use the oil model like do you only use Jun-Air oil or do you have another recommended oil that is more readily available?  Looked like there was a some oil out there that was used in dental offices, etc.

The aft engine hatch has four pressurized springs. I weigh 170 lbs and can just pull down the open hatch using all my weight. can someone provide a pressurized spring/strut part number if yours actually operates better than my description.
Thanks

Hey all,

   If you are using your Aquahot for heat on diesel and/or electric, check your radiator cap for slight leaks. I had some and they were close to drowning the front of the unit with coolant. That's where all the wires are including a set for 240v.

The replacement is cheap and easy.

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8N3IM?ref...asin_title

Worth a check.

Have always had a rattle up front and while reinstalling radio I found the culprit.  There are three screws that are just loose in these holes that don’t seem to bite on anything.  These are at the bottom near the A/C vents.

Anyone else ever have this and figure out a work around?

Mark Robertson in Ft Wayne In . I purchased #266 1991 41'
That won't do anything from switch on column, transmission doesn't respond to toggle switch on left armrest, tachometer doesn't read and won't rev much with pedal. When fast idle turned on momentarily idles up then falls back to normal idle.
I've not been able to spend much time on it yet as I'm trying to finish something else unrelated but intend to have a lot more free time in a couple weeks as I'm retiring. I've fiddled and fixed for 50 some years and hope to a few more.

Hi all.  Looking for a late 90's 40-42 foot non-slide coach with a Detroit 60.  Anyone have any hidden gems they haven't posted yet?

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

Figure I would take a shot in the dark!  I have a ZF differential and the rotors are shot on the drive axle.  I have two new rotors and brake pads, but to get the hub off requires a specific nut wrench from ZF.  It is part number 5870401146.  The crack in my rotor makes it a bit scary to consider driving to Newell to have them do the work.  There is a mechanic in Phoenix, AZ that has replaced those rotors on a Newell before, but that one was a different year and different axle so unfortunately he doesn't have the tool but is more than capable to do the work, just needs the slotted nut wrench.

Just checking to see if anyone has one for sale or that is willing to rent?