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My front roller shade is giving me fits again and I’m running out of wire real estate on the motor end.  Figured I could use a tiny butt splice connector but everything I have is way too big as these wires on that motor are tiny.  Any suggestions on the best way to add some wire?

Working on the last air leak on the front of the coach and need some help identifying this part. It has a relief at the bottom leaking a slight amount of air.

dave and tammy have been here this week and we tinkered with a few things on his 03 they just bought.  this morning as they were getting ready to pull out of my shop we couldnt get the rear end to go to ride height.  it just wouldnt go up.  we tried manually raising it and nothing.  i tested the rear six pack solenoids and they were energized as they should have been.  

i was at the hwh control panel and dave was outside and he mentioned that he didnt think the tag had as much pressure on it as the drive.  AH HA....immediately i thought of the tag switch on the dash.  it had been bumped and the 3 way rocker switch was on and not in the middle.  so the tag was releasing air.  and nothing you can do will raise the rear up then.  we had alot of noise in the shop so didnt hear anything.  

moved the switch to the off center position and wallah.....the rear raised up

tom

While searching for air leaks I found that my 120V compressor is hot to the touch. I understand it may get warm if running frequently, but it runs about once every half hour and I have found the leaks and in the process of fixing them. The top of the manifold is just over 120 and the housing near the coils is over 200 consistently.

I do hear a humming prior to the pump coming on for a few seconds and an occasional humming and the compressor not coming on. I did order a new capacitor thinking maybe it may be the cause. For $12 its worth a shot.

Any one have any ideas or experience with this? These pumps are not cheap.

I called Newell last week and requested any info they had on my coach. To be honest i was hoping more for maintenance records. Here is what they sent me. I got the original build sheet and a floorplan blueprint that never ever made it to this coach. One of the change orders however changes the coach number from 436 to 435, so I'm guessing this blueprint is for the first Newell with slide outs. Its really the only way i can see having 6 twin beds in a coach.

Does anyone know the part number for this air dryer (2002 Coach #612). It appears the housing has some leaks on the internal seals and leaks air out slowly. I plan on replacing the assembly and filter.

Any help would be appreciated.

Overnight the 12v pump in my Aquahot bay was running frequently so off I go on the quest to find the leak/leaks. I found 3 pinhole leaks in the bedroom slide out along the topside of the slide. This probably occurred from a metal shaving falling on top of the slide after replacing all of the vent fans on the roof.

What you need:

1. Spray bottle for spraying leak finding solution: The smaller size works best for tight areas. Something like this https://shorturl.at/01Ebm.
2. Leak finding solution: Kids Bubble solution or make your own using 1/3 dish soap, 1/3 glycerin (https://shorturl.at/Vne9O) & 1/3 water.
3. Rubberized super glue (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CB51...UTF8&psc=1)
4. Small putty knife or something to apply the glue. Preferably one that could be bent slightly. 

Finding & Fixing leak:

I would think it is more likely to get a puncture on the top of the seals due to debris falling on top of the slide-outs so I would check there first. For the inside you may be able to hear it if you turn off anything making noise. You may need to bring in the slide to remove the valance. Bring in the slide enough to pass the seam in the ceiling and remove the valance by pushing up towards the ceiling removing it from the french cleat bracket. put the slide back out and re-inflate the seal. You may need to remove other trim and the debris brush covering the seal to access. I only needed to remove enough screws to pull them back and access the area. If you hear the leak spray it with the leak finding solution to find the leak.

2. Once you find the area creating the bubbles you found the leak. Mine had 1 on the side (inside) and 2 on the bottom. Clean the area with 90% isopropyl alcohol and the surrounding area. You will want to deflate your seal and clean the bottom part of the seal. While you have access, clean the matting surface to make sure there is no metal debris to damage your seal again. Once the seal is clean & dry, mark the areas with a sharpie marker. I also put some marks above the seal to help me find the area again as it is hard to see the marks on the black seal. 

3. Prepare the rubberized super glue by shaking it real good. For leaks on the bottom of the seal (area that mates with the slide), place the amount you think would cover the leak on the tip of your putty knife. Apply to the leak area and try to work it in a little. You may need to bend the end of the putty knife a little due to the convex shape of the seal under vacuum. working it in may help pull some of the glue into the puncture area since it is under vacuum. I had 2 on the bottom close to each other so I covered about a 1/2" square. Take a dry paper towel to remove the excess glue. You may need to wrap the paper towel around the putty knife to get to it. Leave it alone for about 10 minutes then re-inflate placing a folded wet paper towel between the area with the glue was placed on the seal and the slide to prevent any wet glue from sticking to the slide. Check for leaks. Try reapplying if you didn't get it the first time or missed the leak. 

4. For a leak on the side the process is similar. After cleaning the area re-inflate the seal and remove the fuse for the 12V compressor. Allow the inflated seal to release enough air through the leak to still hold it's shape. At the point the air stops leaking air out of the puncture you can apply the rubberized super glue to the leak. Work the glue into the area and leave a little extra on top of the leak, but not so much that it will drip or run. Deflate the seal activating the vacuum pump to pull some of the glue into the puncture. Make sure there is no glue between the seam line and the area where the seal mounts to so the seal is not glued to itself when compressed. Wipe the area with a dry paper towel and allow it to remain under vacuum for about 10 minutes. 

This method worked for me YMMV. I'm not sure what a new seal costs, but it can't be cheap with install. This only took just over an hour to do this repair and has been holding for about a week now. This is a widely unknown method of inner tube repair many have used on cars, trucks & bicycles with regular super glue. I have used it on inner tubes holding up to 110 psi. As these seals are inflated at half that pressure, I figure it should do the trick and work even better with the rubberized super glue and combination of being put under vacuum.

Good luck with this repair should you give it a shot. Hopefully it can save you a few thousand dollars, hours of being in the shop and the overall headache of finding a location to do the repair. 

   

Hey, does anyone know what this taped off wire is for?  It is in the rear, passenger bay, back where the coach batteries are, just next to the engine.  I have a 1998 DD series coach.  It looks like it should be attached to the thing in front of it, but it is detached and it is electrical taped off.

Thanks in advance.

Hello all, 
My coach is a 1999 and the Aqua Hot system needs replaced (everything is bad and manifolds leak). Last I checked this is a $15,000 plus project. Are there any reasonable alternatives to the Aqua Hot System or do I just have to grin and bare it and spend the $$$$?

Hi guys,

I have purchased a 1986 Newell. I recently sold my Wanderlodge so I am somewhat familar, but not with Newells specifically. I am cursed with the urge to "save" these things.
The coach is five hours away which complicates things some what.

The problem as of now is that:
(1) the coach doesn't build air pressure, it started to build pressure but then nothing, 
also, and possibly related, 
(2) the alternator does not charge. 
I am hoping that this is just a thrown belt/belts I didn't have time to check but I did smell burnt rubber and they would be older as the coach has sat for a few years
(3) The generator started and then after about 5 minutes it died. The generator gauge cluster shows that the fuel is propane (is this possible?) and the propane is empty.
There doesn't seem to be any slide catch by the gen slide in/out valve, instead there is just a clip pin in the bumper (is this normal or am I missing something) is there anywhere else I should be looking for the slide catch?