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We have a 1997 Newell Coach and it appears that are top front amber clearance lights are causing a leak in the front cap. We have drips going down in front of the TV and have wet carpeting in front of the fuse panel by passenger seat.
We would like to replace these lights or at least get new gaskets for them.
I guess my husband said one light was full of water.
Chuck at Newell said that they get them from Truck-lite. I was wondering if anyone has ordered these and would have the correct part number for them.
Thanks!!

   

I couldn't wait till April 1 because of the outcome. 

My original concept was to post this as an install I did on the passenger side. I was going to explain how the co pilot was always helping me apply the brakes, so why not just make it easy for her. It would have been a simple process to tee into the supply and delivery brake lines to allow duplicate brake pedals. I was also going to observe how the coach now went into corners and exit ramps much slower than before. Go figure.

But, the outcome of this brake pedal change overrides the prank. 

As long as I have owned Newells, I have found the brakes hard to apply. Meaning it took a lot of leg force to apply the brakes. As a recovering engineer I did a lot of noodlin about that, and asked many of you if you had the same issue. Most said no. I finally figured out that it had a lot to do with the angle of my leg and the design of the brake pedal. I won't bore you with the vector diagrams and force calculations, but I sit high and close to the steering wheel, and that results in my brake foot pressing almost straight down on the brake pedal. A lot of the force from my foot is wasted because of the angle. If one sits further back or lower then the force is more in line with the direction of travel of the pedal. It's intuitive and the force vector analysis shows proves it. I wasn't going to have much more luck changing my short legs, short arms, long torso build than I will have growing hair. 

I also did the math for the standard floor mounted treadle, the math indicated that for my seating position I would gain almost a 30% mechanical advantage due to the angle of a floor mounted pedal. For the hardcore engineers, I did take measurements of the pivot points, angles, and moment arms for both the Newell horizontal mount pedal and a standard floor mount pedal in order to calculate force applied to pedal into force applied to the valve. The problem that stopped my pursuit was that the floor mount treadles mount the air valve underneath. That would have meant cutting a hole in the floor, rerouting all the brake lines, and wiring to install one. No go, with the first barrier being the floor is about six inches thick. That was the status for almost 7 years. 

Last fall I completely stumbled into a treadle valve assembly with horizontal mounting of the brake valve. I decided to take a chance on a $500 experiment. 

Holy Moly!!!!!!!

For me and me seating position it is the difference between driving an old car with drums without power brakes and a new car with power brakes and discs. I held my breath on the first drive after the install (Rhonda did too thinking it wouldn't stop) hoping I had not thrown the money away. I was blown away by the difference in reduction of force required to stop the coach. 

For the install I had to lengthen several of the air lines, and I left the air lines so that I could reinstall the original setup quickly in case my experiment didn't work. I have to rework the foot panel to fit the new pedal now. 

The math does not explain the difference completely. Brake pedal valves have different compensation ratios, in other words the amount of back pressure fed into the pedal compared to the pressure applied to the brakes. If there were no back pressure there would be no brake pedal feel. However I do not know the compensation ratio of the old unit or the new unit. 

I have a way of measuring the pressure in the brake line by plugging a gauge into the outlet for the toad brake. I wish that I had run a little trial with the old pedal before I removed it. Then I could have rerun the trial with the new pedal. I may enlist help from one with an M&G toad setup at Ruidoso to gather the data. 

If you get interested in this mod, the part number is Williams WM569A, and I sourced it from www.brakesystemsinc.com.  It is not in their catalog, so call and talk to an application engineer. They do show a horizontal treadle, but it is not dual circuit, show don't buy the wrong part. (Don't ask how I know this). I also could help with the air hose routing if you need it, since it took me a minute to understand how the ABS system was tied in. And in case you are wondering, the setup is FMVSS approved. 

I am one happy driver after the test drives.

Hello to all! I am soooo glad that i have found u guys and i figured it was time to introduce myself. Me and the wife bought our first Newell last October. Wasnt really looking for a coach but ran across a deal on this one that i couldnt pass up. I have learned so much about the coach from this site. Im still working on finding the coach #. Im sure i will have alot more question as time goes on. Thanks Aaron

Newell has #1407 for sale.  2010 Quad slide, front entry, bath and a half.  $999,000

http://www.newellcoach.com/newell-coaches/coach-1407/

I added a feature that lets us tag people in posts, just type @ in a reply and type out the first 3 letters of their username to autocomplete it.  That user should get a popup saying they were mentioned in a post (or you can click alerts in the top bar to see all your alerts).

For example:  @"encantotom" come take a look at this thing real quick.

Went to Colorado over the weekend. Stopped at 11:00 at night. And none of the slides would deploy. Parking brake  set. Fast idle on. Seals would deflate but would not totally exhaust. Spent time on phone with Newell and valid. 

On my coach all four slides vacume lines run to a single solenoid and Venturi pump. If either fails the slides will not deploy or return. The solenoid has a manual override kind of like a reset button on a router. After manually overriding mine worked fine going forward.

Solenoid is 99$ from valid. Venturi pump is 79$ you can override or wire around the solenoid but Venturi pump failure is a guaranteed no deploy situation.

my gast air pump has stopped pumping. Any direction to rebuild, or is there any other pumps out there that are better. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. thanks Mike #372

The method to my madness for making a schematic of the 12V air system was to break the system into circuits to make it easier and a more organized process for finding air leaks.  I'm using a leak down tester that has been discussed on the forum. 

So far I have determined that I have a very small air leak within the flush valve of the 1/2 bath toilet.  I will service that valve.

My pocket door is what I call air tight.  My standard for "air tight" is no leakage in an hour.

I have found a substantial air leak at the air cylinder of the right side dump valve.  The 90 degree push in fitting is leaking--it is the fitting itself, not where it screws into the cylinder or where the air line pushes in.  I'd like to change these plastic fittings to metal.  Dupree only has the plastic fittings and didn't know what the thread is.

Two questions:  Does any one know what the thread is that screws into the cylinder?  Does any one have a source for metal fittings?

Wishing each of you a wonderful New Year.  Be careful out there tonight if you are driving.

Santa brought me this tool and it is great.  Three levels of brightness.  This is a very well built tool--no plastic.  If you are not familiar with Streamlight, I have a flashlight from the mid 80s that still works like new.

http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-61304-...t+headlamp