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Well I purchased one of them new fangled Heated Water Hose for this winter thinking my water issues would be solved this winter, because my heat tape & wrapped hose burned out last year....
Not So! 4` this am and the new hose was frozen solid ... Burned up..
It was the Orange one... Now off to find one of the "New" Blue ones.. supposed to be better... Times like this.. I do miss Arizona Tom!!!!

many of you know we are in the process of moving to a home in the country. the reason is twofold. the first is to be near our grandkids. the second is so i can finally build my dream shop.

we signed the contract with the builder. it is going to be 70 deep and 65 feet wide with 20 foot sidewalls and a hip roof with tile to match the house. stucco exterior to match the house too.

2 14x15 doors up front, a man cave with bathroom and small kitchen.

in the stage of final design and then getting permits.

i am super excited about it and it is supposed to have the shell done before we leave for our rally in june.

the man cave will be framed out only and i will be building the inside of it as well as the bathroom and kitchen.

i will also do most of the electrical though the contractor will do the 200a service, garage door opener wiring, the shop lighting up high and the ceiling fans. the rest i will do.

i will post pictures as it progresses.

tom

I have 2 of these sconce lights that have 2 halogen fixtures pointing up and 1 or 2 inside of the globe part. I was able to easily change the 2 up lights to leds but how do I get to the fixtures inside of the globes?

I have 4 basement doors that the outer skin has started coming unglued from the aluminum angle frame. I called Newell and they said they use a 2 part epoxy and clamps. Originally they used 3M trim tape but said that it is very difficult to fully remove the skin from the frame, clean off the old tape, then apply new tape and align the door onto the frame.
So I bought 6 of these clamps:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VSY...UTF8&psc=1

Also 2 cartridges plus extra mixing nozzles of this epoxy that fits into a standard caulk gun:
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Silv...-16p77.htm

Then glued carpet to a few 4x4" squares of plywood to protect the paint. Also used a 1" ratchet strap for the bottom of the basement door since the molding was uneven and I couldn't use the clamps there. The epoxy was very easy to apply with the mixing tips. So far I've used 1/2 of 1 tube and have done 2 doors. I also used a strap to hold the door at a lower height to make it easier to work on. The epoxy takes 4-6 hours to cure. The first door I did came out good but only time will tell how long it lasts. If it lasts a couple years I'll be satisfied even if I have to re-glue it.

Steve,
You did such a good job in pointing out the locations of the zerk fittings on the Newell. I would like for you do the same thing on filters. John, when at Spearfish told us there was over 20 filters on the Newell and that is a lot more than motor homes most of us have owned ever had. Of course most of us know about fuel, oil, and air filters, but there are others we first Newell owners need to know more about. Thanking you in advance.

Looks nice 365 tire upgrade

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/rvs/4280046957.html

We have the memory foam mattress that Newell puts in the newer coaches.
The size is 66" wide x 79" long x 9" thick with the rounded ends.
The size is between queen and king size and smaller in length and width than the Cali-king.
Anybody has a suggestion where to buy sheets that fit properly? Other than Newell

These are notes from Cindy on how to re-string the cellular pleated Vista blinds:

ACCORDIAN WINDOW BLINDS
To restring:
Need to measure the window. You will need length of string equal to:
2X height + 4X width + about 12” (to tie off)
Remove shade from window, remove end caps and the top and bottom rails being careful to not lose the small plastic guides at the top and bottom of the shades. There should be a small plastic guide, where the string enters the shade top and bottom, which slides onto the rail. There is also a small plastic ring where the string goes through the bottom wooden window sill. The string also is threaded through the end cap of the rails. Also remove the lift handles from the bottom rail.
Find the mid-point of the string, this will be placed in the middle if the top rail of the shade. Gather the shade (closed) and secure with a rubber band or tie of some sort to keep it from opening up. Thread the string through the plastic guides for the top rail and down both sides of the shade (from top to bottom). Slide the top rail back onto the blind.
Thread string through plastic guide for bottom rail on both sides.
Run string across bottom of shade to opposite side (from both sides). Both strings will sit in the bottom rail.
Slide bottom rail back onto blind. Be sure to slide from the end where the metal slat is rounded.
Run string through end cap (from shade out of cap). Replace the lift handles. Run the string down through plastic guide of the window sill.
Run string across from both sides to center (under window sill) to secure and tie off.
NOTES:
The string should be as tight as you can get it. Be sure blind is all the way up before you tie the string off, this will allow you to tighten the string a little more.
If you need to remove the metal slat in the bottom of the blind, note that one end is rounded and the other end is cut (the corners are square). Also note whether the metal slat is flat or has a slight curve to it. When replacing the metal slat if it is flat, you should use some sort of bar or rounded rail to obtain a slight curve to the slat. This will assist in sliding the metal slat through the fabric. Also be sure to slide from the rounded end of the metal slat. If you insert the metal slat from the “cut end” it will tear the fabric of the shade.



Parts of the blind system:
Shade
String
Brackets attached to top of window sill
Top rail
2 end caps (for top rail)
2 plastic guides which slide into the top rail
Bottom rail
2 end caps (for bottom rail)
2 plastic guides which slide into the bottom rail
2 plastic guide rings which fit into the bottom sill
2 lift handles screwed into the bottom rail


PLEASE NOTE:
THESE ARE JUST MY NOTES FROM OUR EXPERIENCE RESTRINGING OUR BLIND WITH HELP FROM OUR FRIENDS. WE DID NOT OBTAIN THIS INFORMATION FROM ANY SOURCE. YOU MAY FIND THIS TO BE HELPFUL OR YOU MAY HAVE A MUCH BETTER WAY OF DOING THIS.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/rvs/4286306660.html

We've made a commitment to purchase after a test ride. It has to be moved from a location to have access to a highway.

I love the coach because well, I see what all I can do with it, handy like that. My wife has reservations, big, dated, etc.

I'm going to have the oil tested of course. The 8v92 seems to be a love it or hate it kind of thing according to the internet. I happen to be one of those old guys who smiles when a kid comes by with his loud Dodge picemup diesel wannabe. Sounds good. So I imagine the whine will be right up my alley.

I would appreciate any feedback on tackling this kind of project.