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Has anyone attempted to add the newer style power slide tray buttons to the edge of the bay door?  Don’t think it will be too hard to do but didn’t want to reinvent the wheel if some has already figured out the best way to accomplish this.  The existing button on the inside of the bay is too hard to reach when the slides are out and the remote has to be pointed at the receiver which can be a pain if you have the tray stacked full.

Alternatively if anyone has replaced their remote receiver with one that uses a radio signal instead of infrared that would also solve the issue to some degree.

The best solution will be to ditch the remote and add the button to the edge of the bay door.

I have a one year old Gast compressor I bought at Grainger for just over 1k. Although it is somewhat new, it will need a going over. Produces air but it was never the quietest pump on the block. I have since replaced it with a California Air compressor. Make me any offer. It's in the garage waiting for a new home. Mesa AZ location. Although it is a year old, My coach was not left with the pump running full time. This has very little use.

I'm switching my house batteries to Lithium.  Trying to figure out the best way to install protection for the Alternator if I leave it hooked up to the house battery bank.  I know the low charge resistance of the lithium batteries will cause the alternator to burn out.  What I don't know is the best way to deal with it and how to actually do it.

For now I am leaving my house system as a 12v system to simply the install and to keep the price down. I will continue using my existing inverter and won't need a DC to DC inverter to feed the 12v house systems and can hook them up directly to my 12v bus bar.

So my questions:

How and where is the alternator usually wired into the house system on Newells or your Newell?

What equipment would you recommend I install to protect my alternator? And details on how to install said equipment.

Or do I even need to hook the alternator up to the house battery bank?  What are the cons to disconnecting the house side from the alternator completely and only using it to charge the engine batteries?  I know some of them but I'm sure your collective wisdom can enlighten me.

Does anyone have a solution for hard water spots on their windows, I have tried numerous thing's and cannot get them removed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, James Price
Coach 647, 2003
500 D Littlerock ,AR.

We took our first trip after finding the fault with an unlighted shift pad. It was the power wire in the harness coming from the transmission. With shift pad fixed, we left for a few days. All temps and pressures were fine, but we didn't have a speedometer or cruise control. I made a call to Newell, and they thought it was a speed sensor on the transmission. Once home, the ProDriver display showed VSS fault. This only displayed once, at the end of our trip.

Newell suggested checking the connections at the sensors. So, soon I'll have to crawl under and check.

Any ideas? What should I be looking for? How can you tell if there is a faulty sensor. Any input would be helpful.

David

What is the consensus on a sealed engine start battery Vs one with caps? I live in a hot climate and was wondering if a sealed battery is the way to go. I have two sealed for the generator which are good and two for the engine which are weak. There is acid visible when the caps are removed. My engine is a slow cranker and I’d like to upgrade to the 1400cca vs the 1150 rated that I have now. There is a FleetPride very close to my house that has the maintenance style 8D’s available for $340 + core.

My ZipDee Slide topper FREE to good or bad home. 

Approximately 16' long new in 21'

Currently in Show Low Az. 

Take it or its in the dumpster.  



Cheers.

Only 9k btu but for those of you who need to get away from cruise air basement air this could be an answer.

https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/product...obEALw_wcB

We replaced our rear toilet with a SANI-FLUSH macerating toilet and the mid bath toilet with a Dometic Gravity flush toilet.  The aft toilet works great.....but the front gravity toilet does not flush all that hot given the original piping is 1 1/2" ABS.  I wanted to increase the piping to 2" but the thought of removing the black tank to drill out the original 2 5/8" hole to 3" for the new 2" UNISEAL (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QR9KR6?psc...ct_details) was not on my list of things to do this summer.  So with some pondering, I came up with a method to increase the hole size while leaving the tank in place.  

I took a 2 5/8" hole saw (this is the bore guide for the 3" hole saw) threaded it on to the arbor of the 3" hole saw.  The thought of loosing a hole saw into the tank would mean pulling the tank anyway.  As a primary method of retaining the hole saw I put a 6" disk to keep it from falling into the tank.  A back-up, on the neck of the arbor there is an area that I twisted two separate pieces of wire in case I needed to retrieve the hole saw.  This neck area is smooth allowing the wire to stay stationary as the arbor rotates.  BTW the tank is empty and flushed in case I had to do the dreaded black tank dive. 

Now to rotate the hole saw in a restricted area....I do not have an angle drill and the ones available are too big to fit between the black tank and floor so I took a six point socket on an air ratchet that fit the arbor to spin the whole contraption.  Cutting the hole was a piece of cake and as predicted the hole saw did go into the tank but no further than the blue safety disk. 

The UNISEAL popped right in without any issues.  BTW the tank is empty and flushed.

Installing the pipe will be for another day perhaps tomorrow. 
                           

Gurus, 
I lost power today while driving my coach ( 2012 p2000 ) and the faults on their dash were as follows.   Odd thing is that the Intake temp didnt go above 118 degrees so not sure why the turbo inlet fault was present.  During the course of these faults , I lost power on the highway and had to cost to the shoulder. 

2789 15 Turbo Inlet Tmp/High
91 2 Accel Position / Error
102 18 Boost Pressure / Low