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Posted by: Brad Townsend
09-08-2012, 01:55 PM
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
- Replies (5)

After being convinced by Tom that my tires were covered by the Michelin Advantage program, (a benefit of being an FMCA member) I found a place and replaced all 8 tires with Michelin XZE2. To start I saved $170. from original price then if you figure that I saved on no sales tax here in NH the savings jumps to about $220 each. But, everything was going great till they went to the last two tires on the passenger side drive axle. The guy was taking the outside nuts off and SEVEN lugs broke off. It was obvious they had been over 85% cracked for some time as the surface was rusted.
Now what to do! They tried their pound on stud removed which just striped the shank. I called Newell and they said the only way was to weld a nut on the remaining stud. The fellows there would not weld on the coach but I said I would do the welding and noticed a small wire feeder with no wire. I convinced them to let me weld and they sent for some wire and new lugs (10). I was able after some trials to finally get the lugs off. I was welding and running the air wrench while they were taking care of others. We arrived at 9 am and left at 8:30 pm. Oh as I was double checking the air pressure I noticed that the inside stem valves were loose which led to having to take the tires off and break the bead and tighten properly then re mount and re Torque. The original torque was at 475 ft lbs Newell said it should be at 425 ft lbs so again they had to re torque. Oh they also found one of the inside stem valve extensions to be worn just about through from rubbing on the sheet metal piece which was part of a wheel balance add on. It looks like there may be a pin hole but I always kept an eye on the air pressure.
Between the worn extension and the cracked lugs disaster was at the door. We were blessed to have had the course of events happen as they did that led up to us being able to get new tires. AND the difference of a ride the new tires give is like day and night. I used to have to slow below the posted speed when going into a corner but not now. It's like riding on a cloud.
A BIG thanks to Tom and the Help at Newell.

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Posted by: Flick
09-07-2012, 07:36 AM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (28)

We have Zip Dee Awnings on all of our windows on our 84, but do not have the large patio awning that covers most of the passenger side above those windows...like Clark's on our Guru web page here. I have called Zipp Dee and they have directed me to their measuring instructions. I imagine that the front arm will need to either go between the door and the awning on the most forward window or between that awning's most forward arm and the front tire and passenger window if that makes sense to you guys. Before I do this though I thought I would check with you all (my Newell family) for reassurance, tips and help (see attached PDF for Zipp Dee instructions and side view pic of my coach):

1. Do I find the center line of a structural rib by simply assuming it is a verticle rivot line?
2. It references an awning rail to measure against. I assume they are referencing an existing awning rail for coaches that are simply replacing an awning. Since I adding an awning then does that mean that i need to also find and but an awning rail? If so what purpose does this rail serve is it for drainage of water or condensation on the coach?
3. Then would you assume from these instructions that I am measuring from the center point of the bottom brackets to the top of where I will put my awning rail (see question #2 above) and Zipp Dee then subtracts that 51/2" clearence they require from that measurement..and it appears that measurement includes the contour of the coach.

Your advice and assistance is appreciated.

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Posted by: Flick
09-06-2012, 09:11 PM
Forum: Interior Things
- Replies (85)

We want to put in a wood floor in our 84. My wife likes Bamboo. I have never installed a wood floor. So should we start this thread discussion with whether or not it is better to use the wood systems that lock together without nails, screws or glue......or should we use the standard pieces that do require being fastened down.

Has anyone any experience with this? I am also wondering what you do around odd areas like the stairwell which on ours has a rich and gaudy shag all over it and also up front where the floor slopes up as it passes the captains chairs.

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Posted by: les korcala
09-06-2012, 04:13 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (15)

I know I am asking lot of questions and help, we are in Montana now for over 3 months , we spend some time in Saint Regis then Red Lodge and now month in Ennis right by Madison river ( Worlds fly fishing capitol )
I want to use my air compresor from time to time to clean, blow some dusts here and there and I have the hose but not sure what nozzle is the right one? there is one bellow the filter and one below the big electric box ( I have two of them ) in the engine bay.
I have attached two images to show


Best regards,
Les Korcala

Newell 2001 2 slides #582        

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Posted by: les korcala
09-06-2012, 03:47 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (3)

Okay,
We have Central vacum system and can not find the place where you empty it?
I located the blue box in the small bay area right next to Inverter but can not find anything to empty ?

Thanks ,
Les Korcala
Newell 2001 2 slides #582

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Posted by: les korcala
09-06-2012, 03:43 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (7)

Hello,
would love to find out about the right coolant used in Newell ( name , brand etc)

I have plastic tube in the back by the recovery tank and its shows low level !

That plastic tube is broken at the top , so i just picked up very hard plastic hose in same diameter and slipped in to rubber hose.
Also , wanted to find out if that tube is top off at the top ? since mine is broken ( last 2' at the top ) I have no knowlage if should be closed or ope?

Thanks.
Les Korcala
Newell 2001 2slides #582

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Posted by: RussWhite
09-06-2012, 12:09 PM
Forum: Generators
- Replies (9)

Near the end of my recent three month 9,000 mile adventure my generator started shutting down on its own. The stuff I could see on the dash all looked good - temperatures and pressures. Well there is always the possibility of fuel issues so first shot in the dark would be both the fuel/water separator, and the fuel filter. Man that separator was expensive to purchase on the road. I replaced them and followed the directions for priming. Thank you Newell for the priming switch right there at the filters.

I was almost happy when they would not prime. Now I had a plausible reason for the shutdowns. I emailed Tom for a quick hint on the fuel pump I might need, but his generator is totally different from mine - why aren't any two of these Newells alike - but I digress.

I got a part number from the fuel pump on my Kholer/Yanmar generator as the pump was by Carter. I was unable to match that older part number exactly, but after much reading and research I decided it now cross to a P4389. I placed an order with Jegs and was happy to see free shipping, and then sad to see like $12 in handling fees Sad

When the pump arrived it appeared to be an exact replacement to me and once installed I cracked the bleed screen on the filter housing and turned the switch. Jumped for joy when the fuel came squirting out at me. All is well for now. Picture of original pump is attached.

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Posted by: RussWhite
09-06-2012, 11:55 AM
Forum: Generators
- Replies (4)

You all know the sound - when the starter grunts and then the solenoid chatters. Most occasions it is time to get a new battery for the car/truck.
Well, when you have 6 fully charged 8D batteries in parallel - what's a guy to do?
Fortunately for me this kind of thing is right down my narrow area of expertise, but I wanted to pass along the solution for my particular situation.

I first wanted to determine where the voltage was being lost on its way from the house batteries to the generator starter. Chances are always good it is on one or the other legs of the DC circuit. Using my voltmeter and a long wire back to the house batteries I quickly determined my voltage loss ( over 6 volts while trying to crank ) was on the negative side of the circuit. Just for grins I also measured the drop on the positive side and it was less than 2 volts - just fine. I then started moving the location of the long wire downstream of each place that might be the problem. First to the other side of the shunt - same result. Then to the downstream side of the coach battery switch - yes it's on the negative side of the batteries - no joy there either. Then to the chassis point in the battery compartment and same readings. So, all was well back there.
Now Newell could not do what most vehicle manufactures do to get power to a starter - they use the structure of the vehicle and just bolt the starter to the motor and connect the motor to the frame with a flexible braided strap. But in my Newell, the generator is on rollers and cannot be bolted to the frame of the coach. So, Newell ran a black flexible cable between the generator's block and connected that cable to the floor just beside the generator's rails. Well, that is what it looks like from above. Actually the floor of the generator enclosure is not really a good conductor with its thin aluminum plate and underlying plywood. Looking further one finds there is a bolt that penetrates clear through the floor and on through the frame of the coach. There is a nut that pulls that bolt tight to the frame, and then the cable, and then another nut to hold the cable tight. So the real connection that must carry all the starter current is right up front totally unprotected on the bottom of the coach. It is exposed to whatever you drive through. When I looked under there that bolt and connection looked none too good. I have attached a picture of the bolt.
I took it all apart and cleaned things up the best I could using a wire brush on the end of an electric drill. I added a washer to expand the area of electrical contact and put it all back together. Problem solved, at least for a while. Generator starts up easily now. Hope this helps someone in the future.

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Posted by: encantotom
09-05-2012, 05:09 PM
Forum: Air Conditioning
- Replies (50)

hi guys,

i know we have concluded that there are no new SCS thermostats for the basement airs we have.

one of the things about mine that i really dont like is that it only shows the setpoint temperature and not the room temp like a normal thermostat does.

mine look very similar to russ's that are on his 99 but do not function the same.

i am wondering if there isnt some magical combination of button pushing that allows you to program the thermostat. example....there is only 3 pushbuttons on mine. up, down and fan. so i started trying different combos of pushing them and holding. if i hold the up and down buttons down together for like 15 seconds and then let go, the display switches to centigrade. doing the same it switches back to F. so i wonder if there isnt some other combo of button pushing that lets me display room temp instead of setpoint temp.

any thoughts or do any of you have the manual for my thermostat?

thanks

tom

   

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Posted by: encantotom
09-05-2012, 04:36 PM
Forum: Heating Systems
- Replies (8)

hi all,

i was reading on roger burkes forum about how you are supposed to have equal return air area as the heater vent grill itself. makes sense.

in looking at mine, i dont see where that is? the vents under the small table behind the passenger front seat doesnt appear to have them.

neither does the heater grill in the kickspace under kitchen counter or the one in the cabinet in the two bathrooms or the bedroom.

the two little ones at the ankles of the driver and passenger up front have a return grill on the side so there is one for each of them.

are they drawing their air from somewhere else? what am i missing?

i have not really used mine to keep warm so not sure how efficient it is but i have heard richard say his heats up really fast.

comments?

tom

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