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Hi all, I know there is lots of info here about how to deal with air leaks.  Unfortunately I am not able to do so on my own for a couple of reasons. Pretty sure my problem is in the driver side bags or related connections.  When I set the auto level, it works fine but over a couple of hours it doesn’t hold. Wake up in the morning and it’s brutal.  My temporary fix is to use manual and lower all sides.  Still gets crooked but we can deal with it.

With that as background I’m looking for recommendations in the Phoenix area where I can find a shop to help. We’ll be there week of May 5 to visit my son.

Thanks for your help.

2020 Essex batteries died. Got it up and running but none of the monitors are working for radio, backup camera, main control screen above driver. Any ideas ?

My 1974 Newell has 10.00R20 Michelins on 10 hole Budd Wheels.  The tires are like New but are very old.  They must be replaced.  Noone wants anything to do with Split Rims anymore.  These are Really nice aluminum wheels but I guess I am going to have to go to something else unless you guys can convince me of another way.  My question is,  Will Any Other Type Wheel in A Larger Size, say 22.5 fit on my Drums?  Or am I looking at changing drums all around.  What have others done on Older Coaches?  Any Help Is Appreciated!  Thank You,  Al Nesbitt

Someone was looking for this info the other day. I thought I would post what I have. This is the switch that is used on the HWH slide systems to tell the brain if the room is in or out

https://www.grainger.com/product/HONEYWE...itch-6DXC7

I am debating on replacing the wet tank as the labor to remove it is far more than the front tanks were. Space is tighter back there. I have been looking for a 9" diameter by 28" wide 6 port tank. I am finding similar tanks but they have mounting ears on the sides. Those are right around $3-400. Has anyone replaced there's and care to share a part number that I can substitute with? If not, I will just try to recycle what I have.

I was hoping someone on this forum could help me. I have a leak on the top rear slide lock pin of my living room slide. I have removed the aluminum block that holds the pin. There is a top cap that I removed and found a deteriorated O-ring. I found the correct O-ring locally and re-installed. I was hoping that would fix my problem and to an extent it did, but it looks like it's also leaking from the pin itself.

My hope is that someone here has removed the pin and can help me with directions for removal and any special tools I may need. I know I can send it to HWH for repair but they quoted from $200 to $400 to repair depending on the issue, not to mention I have a trip coming up in about 6 weeks and didn't want to take the chance I would not get it back in time. (Though I've heard I could probably cap off the hydraulic hoses to the pin and be fine.)

Under the top cap, there is a brass nut with a thick washer. I was able to remove that but then wasn't sure where to go from there since there is a slotted cylinder and might need a special tool to remove. I'm assuming it's threaded but not sure.

The HWH part number for the whole lock is RAP 19920. I've attached some photos for reference. They want $600 for a new one and are back ordered for an unknown time...though I'm obviously hoping to fix this one myself. HWH technical support is out weeks so I can't even talk to someone there in a timely manner.

My coach is a 2001 Foretravel U320. I'm posting on the Foretravel forum also but the more brains the better right? 

Thank you.

this is newell related only by the fact that the trailer is fairly close to the newell...

that said, i am looking for the greater wisdom you all have....

i have a 24 ft equipment trailer i used for my tractor when needed or anything else.

the wood planks need something on them.  

i am in research overload.     i know some use used motor oil, but that is too messy for me.  i wont use it.   i called a trailer place and they said to use boiled linseed oil.  

it is a trailer so i will not be spending much if any time prepping it.   

the wood is getting pretty dry here in the az sun.  

and i am not trying to spend my retirement fund doing it....

any experience and or suggestions?

tom

hi,  

i was running some wires for my new camera in the rear engine area above the hydraulic tank and must have bumped the 6 inch sight tube on the outside.  it is the original and i am sure is brittle

it is 1/4 od just like a 1/4 inch dot air line.  it uses compression fittings on the clear tube.  it is slowly dripping on the bottom fitting.  

so....it you have replace it what did you use.  i am looking on amazon for it and rigid acrylic tubing is a choice.  

suggestions?

tom

After a few months of sitting dormant and tons of work that I performed, today I took it out for a drive. Rear brake air check valve seems to work now and built up pressure when I exhausted the air from the brake test. I wanted to make sure it would build up air. That said, I brought along my compressor just in case. I drove for about 50 miles with smiles on my face. This thing rides oh so nice and smooth. One of the things I did over the winter was install an LED indicator lamp next to the Jake brake switch which is tied to the circuit going to the engine solenoids. When engaged, the light turns on so I know the solenoids are getting power. Seems to work although I really don't feel the braking force. I never had a 2 stroke before so I have nothing to compare it to other than my 2018 Ram Cummins diesel. That truck will almost stop itself on jakes alone. New front a/c works phenomenal and I am thrilled to have a comfortable drive again. Now that it is parked over the pit where I can get to the wet tank, I will remove it, have it cleaned and replace any and all check valves I find back there. I am thinking of removing the auto drain under the wet tank and putting in manual drain valves where I can access them without getting under the coach. It was a good day.

I acquired some of these Hella lights and a power supply from Captain Gizmo (Steve).  I had one bad LED in the light string on my coach 1482.  Steve had replaced his lighting and I was fortunate to get some of the ones that were removed from his coach.  We also wanted to see if an individual LED in the string of lights could be replaced (Yes it can).  There are amber marker LEDayFlex lights in front and on the side of the coach.

To gain access to the DRL power supply and to the strings of lights, with a 5/64" allen wrench remove the small screws in the black panel the lights are mounted in.  The nuts are held in place with a dab of RTV so be careful not to force the screw to turn the nut.  Penetrating fluid may help in that case.  The black piece can be carefully removed once the screws are all removed, it may take some wiggling.  When I put it back together I cut the bolts down to 1" long and used some anti-seize on the threads.   The string of lights are retained by those silver metal brackets.  Once the brackets are removed the strings of lights can be removed.  Each individual LED is retained by 2 of those silver phillips head screws

           

There is a power supply for the DRL and another for the amber marker lights which is now accessible through the hole.  There is also a power supply for the headlights in there, all mounted on a single piece of metal.

           

The bad LED's had a dark spot by the LED which I think was caused by heat.

   

The good LED's had a small dak spot which is probably not a good thing.

   

I took one of the bad LED's apart.

           

If one LED "bulb" is burned out, you can cut the wiring and splice another in. The power supply output with 6 LED's illuminated was about 2.85 VDC