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    Hello,
We are having problem with our Aqua Hot after servicing it few weeks ago and some $800 bill , having isues with switches keeping AH on!

what is happeining is that AHot will turn itself off and randomly turn itself on?
We called Newell and the have recomended all 4 termostat switches replacement ! Was wonder if anyone had same isue and also .

Before I do that i would flip the two brakers on my power panel in the coach, are there any fuses you would sugested to remove it or turn off near the circuit board right on Aqua Hot itself.

I did take some photos of teh panel with four switches position so I can put the back same way!

Love to hear if there are any aditional test I could do to be sure the termostas are the problem.

I have attached image of our AHot system

Best,
Les

Bestm
Les

Hi Gurus, I have had a occasional flicker of the yellow check engine light on our last 3 runs. Our Newell is powered with the 8V92 TA DDEC. I'll describe the circumstances.

1st time was after a 300 mile drive ending with a long climb of about 4000 feet. No flickering of the light till we had levelled out for a number of miles and started to slow down for a nights stop over, the temperature had dropped quite a bit. I check fluids and found all in good order. Oil pressure and temp gauges all good.

2nd time - drove 200 miles in cold slushy weather with no check engine light. Stopped for fuel towards the end of the day, it was cold and snowy. When we got under way again the light flicered occasionally till we stopped for the night. Oil pressure and temp gauges all good.

3rd time - drove the next day from Edson to Edmonton Alberta in cold snowy, slushy weather and the light flickered occasionally. Stopped in Edmonton for cheap fuel and a hours vist and drove on to Calgary with a bit warmer and dryer weather - no check engine light appeared.

At all times the engine ran beautifully cruising around 60 - 65 mph, temp between 160 - 170 except on long climb when it might get to 180. Oil level up to the mark, coolant just at the bottom of the sight glass. I use Howes fuel conditioner all the time. I

I'm wondering if it might be running just cool enough in the winter weather to set of the check engine light. I have touched base with a diesel mechanic friend who will come by and have a look one of these days. He suspects a poor connection.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone !

We are staying for 2 weeks in Northwest and ready to travel south (Santa Barbara, Ca & later Tucson, AZ)

This morning I wanted to retract our slides (Newell 2001 2 hydraulic slides) and floor in front slide dropped off about 3" and that was all.

Went outside to listen for motor sound when my wife pressed the slide switch, just heard two knocks (out of the two square boxes) and there was no sound of the hydrolic pump doing its work.

Tried rear slide, no sound, nothing!

We called local mechanic and he helped to get both of them back but we still don't know what the problem was and why it happened.

We had plenty volts going - 13.8v showed on the panel, plugged into 50 amp, generator on, and house and engine battery merged. We have been having power issues and that was the recommendation from Newell to get them to retract (which had been working).

We turned engine and generator off, waited for the mechanic to come out and see what he can do.

He came and asked us to turn the slide out swich on, front slide retracted; he said he touched all wires for conection. He then checked the two relays make sure voltage was going in, which it was. We then tried to bring in the rear slide, and that one did not respond at all. We checked fuses which were fine.

Few minutes later we tried the rear slide again and it came in.

It looks like we have some kind of problem. Has anyone experienced similar problems? it might be near the cotrol boxes ( two sqare nes ) or two slide in switchs , but why would both of them went bad same time?

We tried the whole process two times just be sure it worked and it did.

In last month we did have problem with the slides. That seemed to be a voltage problem and Newell said plug in to shore line, gen on, engine on, than try it and that worked. There was not enough voltage to slide them in. We tried all those tricks initially today so the voltage was high enough. So now I suspect it wasn't just the voltage but something else is going on.

Wanted to ask if anyone had same problem or if anyone might know what to look for? Could it be the Panel boxes (that is where I heard clicking sounds).

We are heading to OR and found a service center in Central Point in OR. near Medford who works on HWH systems, hope we can get it figured out and fixed, but again wanted to get some input from forum members.

Best,
Les Korcala
Newell 2001 2 slides #582

hi,

my coach has over 70 of the round halogen puck lights.

the 10w halogen bulb draws about .8 amps dc. (i measured one tonite) the 20w draws 1.6 amps. (hey you could calculate that easy enough as well)

darlene and i like the cool white/bright white color for lighting. so i bought a bunch of the round g4 replacement led's to experiment with and then settled on the one below for the bulk of the fixtures.

it is has 12 5050 led's. it draws 160ma. or .16am.

for the bigger round fixtures i used a 15 5050 led g4 one. this particular one is too big to use in the round puck lights. these bigger fixtures used a 20w halogen bulb. these halogen bulbs get really hot.

the led g4's get hot but nothing like the halogens.

it takes some work to convert. i did the bedroom tonite and had already done the front of the coach. i just have the two bathrooms left now.

once you take the cover off the puck lights (they rotate slightly to come off) then take the old halogen bulb out. then you have to take the reflector out. i used a small curved pick tool to pry it out over the tabs. to make these round leds fit, it has to come out to make space for them.

then the round g4 led has to be modified slightly. take the plastic piece off that is pushed over the 2 pins. it has to come off so it will push completely into the fixture. then with mine i had to trim the leads down. you can decide if you need to do that but i had to on all of mine.

then you can try them in the fixture. you have a 50/50 chance they will work. led's are polarity dependent, and halogen/typical light bulbs are not. so no one paid attention to what side positive or negative was attached to the fixture. if it doesnt work, turn the bulb upside down and you will see if towrks. then if so, you have to take the fixture out of the ceiling and reverse the wires. not hard, just takes time. the puck lights are a tight friction fit, but will come out if you are patient.

the light is as bright or brighter and a clean white light. if you dont like the cool white, you can get the bulbs in the warm light that is closer to the color temperature of the original halogen bulbs.

if i did the math right, with 70 lights replaced and 70x.8=56amps dc. and now is 70x.16=11.2a dc 20% of the original load.

they dim using the dimmers in the coach as well.

btw, i bought the led's on ebay from china. paid $1.78 shipped each.

later

tom

Saw a late model dark brown with lighter brown bottom heading west about 14 miles east of Van Horn, Texas
Couldn't see the coach license plate but his toad was from Florida.

I am trying to find a ProDriver manual. I hope someone know where to download this manual.

Ok how does one change the location pin?

I have a Demco Aluminator Towbar that I am selling. I will be in Cottonwood, AZ next week, then around Mesa, then Yuma until mid-November. After that ????
I have had it for 3 years, bought new. It is in good condition and works properly. I just traded my Jeep Liberty for a Silverado Z71 and bought a Demco Excalibar for the heavier capacity.
Asking $250.00 + shipping but would rather not ship if we could meet.

I was having troubles with the check valves for my front air tanks sticking open and failing to hold pressure because of rust after a few weeks of installing new check valves.

I replaced the rear wet tank with a larger volume tank, replaced the pressure relief valve, the automatic water drain valve and added cable drains to the wet tank and the two front air tanks.
I had a problem finding a tank with the same circumference so
so that the tank could be mounted in the old clamping mechanism.

I finally got a tank on ebay and got it installed even though it was
somewhat longer. I did this in 10/12/10 but just now got around to entering the data in the forum.

Remember that the gauges for the air brake tanks should maintain pressure even when the main tank pressure drops. If the tanks do not maintain their pressure the check valve is full of rust and must be cleaned or replaced.

Attached is photo of new and old tank (they are the same circumference).

Any one looking to upgrade????

http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv/new...-45--C1575