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Just picked up a 2004 truck, ordered the baseplates, now what is the best way to set up lights?
On my jeep I added a bulb in the light housing and ran wires through the frame, that worked pretty good.
Magnetic lights?
Something like these glued on the bumper? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-LED-15-Slimlin...519ff5b676

Later on I'll probably carry a RZR in the back with the tailgate down so need to keep that in mind when I add lights.

Evening Guys,
Just found the site from the wanderlodge forum posted by a guy named stick and registered so I thought I's say hello. We have a Newmar Essex 4502 and live very peacefully at our farm in up State New York with our Persian cat Dougal. Unfortunately, I still have to work for a living but the sooner I retire we're off on our full time travels. Right now we are searching for a replacement motor home and set on either wanderlodge or newell so hopefully you won't mind answering some of my questions.

All the best,

Bob Mettcalf

Disclaimer - I have no financial interst in this company.

I just want to take a moment to say how much I have enjoyed the online shopping experience at McMaster-Carrr. Of all the sites I have frequented, and that's a lot, these guys really do it right.

For me shopping should be quick, easy, and get my stuff in a hurry so I can do other things. I do not like roaming around a store trying to find something or just window shopping. I want in and out.

The McMaster site makes it soooooo easy. Just type in more or less what you are looking for and then click on the proper name from the dropdown. You then get images and the ability to filter so you see just the type of item you are looking for.
I have used their email to ask a detailed question and the response was within a half hour and then basically instant after that. I am presently about 180 miles from Atlanta and my ground shipping arrives the next day even when I place the order after dinner. I have not had a shipping charge over ten bucks and a couple packages weighed about 10 pounds. Your location may not work nearly as well, but looking at the lake and clicking in my order beats spedning gas money and going to town.

www.mcmaster.com

Russ

    Hello,
We having some problem with outofill valve ?
Its newell 2001 2 slides

I called Mike at Newell and he said it should be simple fix
Take the cover of the valve ( sqare plate with 4 screws) and you should be able to clean any dirt builded up in there!

When I opened the cover there was strong spring with head cup and both ware buildup with white deposit 1
There was center screw holding the valve rubber memebrane , thsi screw is hard to remove it ? I turned either way and there was some water coming from rubber memebrane sides!

My qestion is, do I need to get that screw out to get to guts of the valve or it looks like thsi valave is shot case I see water coming from the memebrane?

If so, would nayone had any sugestions where to find the new valave.

When we do outo fill of our fresh warer , it will never stop itself , there overflow hole under the coach is spilling lot of water.

I attched image of the valve location

Best,
Les Korcala
Newell 2001 2 slides

When I purchased my coach the icemaker had been removed. If any one needs to replace their refrigerator, but the icemaker works, I'm looking for the parts.

Here's another one for anyone looking for a bargain:

http://www.karnsmotor.com/2002_Newell_Cu...337422.veh

What do people think about the tire pressure monitoring systems? Tim at RV cams is a big believer in them (although he is getting out of that because i think he said there is no margin in them). After listening to you guys talk about the need to closely monitor tire pressure for the best handling it seems like it might be $300 or so well spent. OK dispense with knowledge and opinions. Thanks

I recently had the toe-in adjusted to 1/16", but the coach still seems to wander a little bit. Has anyone adjusted theirs to 1/8th of 3/16, and if so, did it help. I am not so much worried about tire ware as I am in stopping the over steering.

While I'm on a roll with DIY documents....

I've had my Newell now for a few months beyond two years. I pretty much fulltime so whatever happens, I am close by. So my not being able to explain how this happened bothers me more than a little.

I purchased the coach in Phoenix and stopped at the factory for my first time on the way back east. During that visit I decided to have all the house batteries replaced as they were obviously old. Subsequently the next summer I removed them to cleanup and make repairs to the battery trays. So somehow both the Newell techs and I missed the deteriorated battery cable, or even more unlikely, the insulation just gave up in a very short period of time. In any event, look at the pictures and imagine how you would feel if you saw that and realized what would happen if that conductor contacted ground anywhere on the coach.

Even without knowing how it got in that state, it was very clear it needed fixing immediately. Another strange thing is that search as hard as I can, that single battery cable is the only one with any insulation damage. You will note that its color is different than the other positive ( reddish ) cables in the coach. This is true the entire length of the cable. And, yes, the insulation damage is consistent the entire length of the cable - about 12 feet.
The cable runs from the batteries to the fuse at the inverter. I immediately disconnected it at the batteries and used an external charger until the repairs were complete. I was hopeful I could just purchase new cable and pull in the new as I pulled out the old. Those hopes were quickly dashed as I discovered Newell had used wire ties all along the run, making the cable impossible to pull out. The cable runs right down the middle of the coach and over the water and waste tanks. Totally impossible to get at it with the tanks installed - bummer. Well I decided to just let it rest in peace in that location and run my new cable on a different route. I cut the old cable as it exited the battery compartment and moved the other end away and tagged and taped both ends. I cut a new hole through the compartment wall near the battery disconnect switch and routed the cable to the inverter fuse. I used very flexible red 4/0 cable that cost me about $10/ft. And to be extra safe I fused it at the batteries. Now both positive cables leaving the battery compartment are fused. I have no idea why this was not done with the original construction, or maybe it was and got changed along the way. Is your coach protected by fuses on all battery cables? If not, think about doing it as a short on a positive cable will release tremendous amounts of energy from 6 8D batteries.

The all copper terminal at the battery compartment is rated for my cable, but also for larger cables and is bigger than I would have preferred. It should be just fine, but things would be prettier if I had a compression terminal there.

Someone recently was looking for a coach with bunks. Here is a '92 45' at panterra coach with 2 bunks up front. Looks nice.

http://panterracoach.com/coaches/1992-newell/