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  1. Newell Gurus
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  New User

Posted by: Pete and Christy
03-13-2024, 06:32 PM
Forum: Please introduce yourself
- Replies (8)

Hello All,
Just retired couple looking to sell our house in Washington State and purchase an early 2000's Newell. Plan is to fulltime for 6 to 9 months of the year and spend winters in Puerto Rico. Have been lurking on the site for a couple of months. Finally feel close enough to purchasing to register with you all.

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  D2 Governor leaking

Posted by: BusNit
03-13-2024, 05:32 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (3)

I am starting to feel at a loss as to this problem. I replaced the air governor and once all the tanks were up and connected, I aired up the system using the 120v compressor. I heard air escaping the exhaust port of the governor. Ok I thought, maybe I got a bad one. I picked up another and put it in with the same thing. From there I put my old one back in and the same issue. When I first aired the system up I heard the air dryer (2 years old) pop off the purge. I replaced the purge valve with a cheapo amazon knockoff as a test bed. I still lose air from the governor exhaust port. Not sure what is going on here. Small air line (1/4" comes from supply tank pressurizes governor. 3/8" line from front compressor Tee's off into large air dryer line. What do I need to rule out? Could the whole air dryer have gone bad? It has been sitting with no air pressure for about a month.

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  Storage, Maintaining Lithium bank and chassis batteries

Posted by: Richard
03-13-2024, 03:39 PM
Forum: Electrical
- Replies (5)

There are a lot of different ways of keeping the coach plugged in, and keeping both the chassis and house batteries charged. 

Newell equipped many of the coaches with an echo charger or trickle charger that takes power from the house batteries and maintains the coach batteries. 

Some leave the batteries merged so that the inverter/charger keeps the chassis batteries up. 

Sounds good, but in my case I noticed that my chassis batteries would stay charged while in storage but not really up to full charge. It took a while to sort it out, but this is what I think. I float the lithiums during the winter at 13.4. That’s lower than what I keep them while using the coach, but this is one of my strategies for battery longevity. The problem is the echo charger only charges the chassis batteries around 0.2 volts lower than the house batteries. So my chassis batteries would see 13 to 13. 2 over the winter. 

Since I am plugged in, and cheap, I chose to go the financially efficient way. I installed this maintainer on the chassis batteries. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS10-Ful...mREALw_wcB

It’s a NOCO Genius 10 amp maintainer. I hardwired to the parallel starting batteries and mounted the unit on the forward firewall. It is not intended to rescue a dead battery but keep the ones I have fully charged. I have been using this setup all winter. I am happy to report that the engines spins up quickly whereas when the chassis batteries were on the trickle charger, it would be a lazy start.

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  odors

Posted by: dannymarilyn
03-12-2024, 06:27 PM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (1)

In our coach we would smell odors, but couldn't isolate the source. Last time at Newell, I asked Creslie and he told me that at least our coach has 1 1/2 " vent valves near the sinks, which it they don't seal, will allow holding tank vapors to come back into the coach especially when traveling. Probably something about the "station wagon effect" where a low pressure area forms and higher pressure tank comes back in.

The valves should function like a check valve allowing air to enter the plumbing, but not vent any back into the coach!

I bought two of the valves at Lowes for about $10 + each. Big channel locks will remove them. I disassembled one and determined it only contained a rubber disk valve which is attached to a plastic rod which is held up by a small spring. I tested it by pouring water into it while it was upside down on the counter. It leaked profusely. The rubber was good. Simply a case of dirt of some sort between the rubber and the sealing surface.

Short answer, sprayed other valve with tilex or similar cleaner, flushed well with hot water. Now it works as well as new one. You can suck air through it, but can't blow any back through and it will hold water when side down.

Unless broken, just clean rubber disk edges and plastic sealing surface and you're good to good again. I installed ours with teflon tape to hand tight. Now, no stink! Other, better half, now happy!

Keeney brand, #24372 & 85539K on package. Barcode appears to 0 4622400507 0 at Lows.

deg

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  Welded up the HWH slide pin actuator

Posted by: pairodice
03-12-2024, 05:02 PM
Forum: Slides
- Replies (12)

I had a friend who knows how to weld much better than me come by and weld up the HWH slide pin actuator/ram/solenoid thingy… 
It came out good compared to how it used to look and the only problem is that we welded it in the wrong place!  It is about 1” away from where it needs to be (completely my fault for not checking the outer pin hole before welding it up… :-(  So while I’m waiting to get the nerve up to weld on the coach again I’m going to rebuild the hydraulic pins using the write-up from Latitude and getting the o-rings ordered… some day this slide room is going to be completed! Any advice on what to do the next time we are welding this up will be appreciated (please do not be too critical of his welds - I told him no one would ever see them with the valance on! Lol)

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  2024 No Rally Rally

Posted by: smagown
03-12-2024, 02:23 PM
Forum: Get Togethers
- Replies (93)

Gordon and Susan have put together the dates and location for the rally.

White Acres Campground   (502-348-9677)

3022 Boston Road

Bardstown KY 40045

whiteacrescampground.com

September 30- October 4th, 2024, full hookups

Sites are $55 + tax/night and are 60 to 70 feet long. They don't have a site map but will keep the group together (2024 No Rally Rally), the cutoff is the end of July for registration.

Call after 10am and ask for the secretary to get set up.

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  TuFlo 750 Removal and Rebuild

Posted by: Richard
03-12-2024, 09:48 AM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (3)

This is not intended as a full blown explanation of how to replace the air compressor, but rather some Newell specific things I learned along the way that may prove helpful to you in the future. There are lots of videos on the YouTube about replacing the compressor on a Series 60. I had to chuckle while watching because on the half dozen I watched. There was talk….blah blah blah. And then magically the compressor was out on on the bench. I wasn’t having much luck with that magic so here are some tips to help with a Series 60 Newell.

First, this is a BEAR. Tough access, and although the specs say the compressor weighs 53 lbs, I think that is low by at least a 100 lbs. 

Remove the fuel pump. Have some flare plugs of the right size to keep the diesel from leaking out of the lines. You will appreciate the time it takes to do this when you don’t have to reprime the fuel system. The three bolts that hold the fuel pump on take a 8mm 12 point socket. Rebuild the pump while you have it off. The kit is about 60 bucks, and it’s easy to rebuild. 

Before removing the air compressor, all the videos on you tube will have you drain the coolant. If you use pinch pliers, you can pinch off the coolant lines, and lose less than a quart of coolant. Take the air inlet line loose at the intake manifold, the access to the clamp is easier there. 

There are five bolts, and one nut that hold the compressor to the motor. The heads are 15mm. The two on the backside are completely and utterly hidden. You need about 16 inches of extension with a wobble fitting on the end to get them loose. If you don’t use the wobble, you can’t get the socket on the bolt hole. I used a combo of a flashlight and a mirror to get the socket on the bolt heads. 

Here is the key point, unless you are a gorilla, you cannot reach into the location and lift the pump out. It’s too heavy and you have no leverage. I used a ratchet strap setup to catch a bracket on top of the pump while routing the strap to the front side of the intake manifold. I attached the other end to the left. Vertical support

I used the strap to hold the weight of the compressor while I eased it out of the location. It’s bit tricky since the outer gear is spiral cut, and the inner gear which meshes into the hydraulic pump is straight cut. A bit of wiggling is required. The pump, not the mechanic.

Once on the bench the disassembly is straightforward and so is the rebuild with the instructions in the kit.

I had to use one dirty trick on the internal valve seats. There is a 14mm hex in the top of the seat for unscrewing it, but no reasonable force even with heat and penetrating oil would get them to budge. So I welded a 1 inch nut to the top of the valve seats. They came right out. I don’t why this trick works, but I have used it a few times on stuck bolts, and every time, very little force is required to unscrew it.

Once you have the strap trick, and the flashlight and mirror trick, reinstallation is pretty straight forward.

Oh yeah, why did I do this. The head gasket on the compressor was starting to weep a bit of coolant and oil. It was making a nasty mess. I rebuilt the seals in the fuel pump just because I had it off.

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  Air tank drains

Posted by: BusNit
03-12-2024, 08:40 AM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (11)

I refurbished the underside of the front area of the coach. Chassis is painted in Por-15, air tanks have been removed, cleaned and powder coated, new fittings and check valves. I bought these pull cord drains but for them to be really effective, the plunger needs to be pushed not pulled. Several people have given me the idea to run an extension tube with a drain valve to an accessible area. Has anyone done this here and have pics? Should I run normal 1/4" or 3/8" tubing?

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  Emporia smart electric wifi monitor

Posted by: Jack Houpe
03-12-2024, 06:57 AM
Forum: Electrical
- No Replies

We have been making some cool upgrades to our coach all lights changed to led and also I installed a Emporia smart home energy monitor which is wifi, this monitors electrical usage and can give you a notification if something is unusual but one of the coolest features is it stores information by the sec, hour, day, month and year. If you have a full blown solar system this gives you what circuit is drawing the most and in our case it is the Aquahot even though I have the 220 element turned off. If your boondocking and have solar and batteries you can figure out ahead of time what you need to turn off to make it through the night. Even if you don't have solar this is a cool device to see if you have a electrical problem someplace in the coach.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9?ref...tails&th=1

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  LED lights and dimmers

Posted by: Jack Houpe
03-10-2024, 05:46 AM
Forum: Electrical
- Replies (4)

We recently changed every halogen puck light to LED but noticed the lights at low level on the dimmers had a strobe like effect, after doing some research found the old halogen dimmers are PWM and called leading edge dimmers. I bought a few LED dimmers (trailing edge dimmers) off amazon but they would not work on our systems where the + 12 volts to the lights is what controls the dimming of the lights, but found one that does work pricey but it works perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIF6WDI?psc...ct_details

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