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Allison operating temps
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HWH Air Leveling Issues F...
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New owner of coach #485 1...
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Steering rod 614610A — ca...
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Coach 384 For Sale
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Merge Solenoid
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Tire recommendations
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Tag axle bushing replacem...
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Camping at Newell Factory
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While doing some cleaning I came across my rear engine bay rear electrical panel had some water damage to the 1/2" Formica covered plywood panel at the bottom 6". The damaged wood was loose and screws were pulling out with just some slight pressure. I removed stuff from the bottom area to gain access for a cut all the way across the panel. I was not going to replace the whole panel....too hard. Screwed a guide into place and made a cut line with my multi tool to remove the damaged plywood. I used 1/2" Marine Starboard for my repair...it is not affected by any water, works like wood and holds screws very well.....comes in several colors.
When it rains, it pours. Or, when it leaks air ... it blows?
Seems like I have an air issue in the front on top of my leaking solenoid valve in the back. I had convinced myself that the front was dropping as a result of the left rear dropping due to the valve leak back there. But I've now proven that's just not the case.
With no solenoids engaged, the front of the coach stays up. But when I go to travel mode, only the left side drops. The right side stays at a proper travel height.
I propped up the front of the coach and tried poking around with my Whisper, but can't pinpoint anything as it's hard to get very far under the front.
Looking for ideas on what it might be. On front there's only a single HCV, isn't there? So I'm thinking it's not that being that the passenger side stays up.
Also trying to figure out how I can rig the coach to drive it about 5 miles on back roads to a shop in order to be able to get under there.
Being that it only loses air in travel mode - would it be a terrible idea to manually get the height to approximately ride height and then disconnect the travel solenoids? I do not have an override switch on my dash. As soon as I start moving more than a crawl, the HWH automatically goes to travel mode.
Previous owner had capped a larger red air line that I could hear leaking at bottom front driver side right next to the 6-pack. I could see that it apparently had been hooked up to what appeared to be an air horn. When I hooked it back on the horn and tried to air up Coach, it started sounding like a freight train’s horn coming down the tracks. I couldn’t turn it off and the supply air is now staying at 0 psi. ? has anyone found to be in the same predicament? Should I just cap it and be done with it? Appreciate any feedback. Thanks
I put a brand new Delco Remy alternator in with new belts. It only shows 12.3v on the Blue Fire. Any ideas why this would be? Belts seem to be tight I torqued the pulley but to 80ftlbs that it stars on the alternator
My propane tank is a 67 gallon big boy. It is 31 years old with surface rust and my concern is safety. I can't find a replacement online that size or even a smaller one that has the fill ports on the end cap. I'd hate to lose the propane since my coach has two propane furnaces which work great and do not depend on much power to run. Not sure what to do. Last year I turned the gas valve on and it hissed a leak past the stem seal and "popped" itself sealed again.
On the diagram that Richard and Steve Bare put together:
https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3731
There’s 2 blocks marked SV on each tag airbag circuit.
I am assuming that those are solenoid valves that arr used for the “Raise tag axle” function. Is that right?
I have a solenoid valve leaking lots of air in any mode - raise, travel or ign off. It is mounted to the frame rail on the curb side approx between the rear tires.
It leaks enough to drop the driver’s side of the coach all the way down in travel mode.
I’m assuming at this point that it is the SV on thr diagram with the exhaust port. Can anyone verify that?
Wondering if anyone has a part number. Alternately, I am assuming that if it is the exhaust valve for raising the tag that I can simply bypass it for now.
03-01-2024, 02:32 PM
Forum: Howdy and Welcome to Newell Gurus
- Replies (2)
Hello,
I am new to the forum and am looking at 2008 Newell Coach 1223 located in Charlotte, NC. Is there someone in the Charlotte, NC area that could help me inspect the coach? Are there any major gotcha's for that year coach with a C15 engine and a 12-speed ZF transmission? (https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2008-Ne...5027889335)
Can anyone tell me if the Tail Light layout on different coaches is any indication of the vintage of the coach ?
I thought I had figured out that in 2008 they switched from plain round lights in the rear cap to round lights in a big giant bezel like thing that stretched from one side of the coach to the other. But then I just saw a 2013 advertised with no bezel, just the round lights in the cap.
I think that in 14 they went to the tall (non-round) lights that they are using currently.
Makes me wonder if this big bezel thing was maybe an option ? I have seen several Newel option ordering sheets and have never noticed this on there.
Can anyone shed any light on this ?
Thanks, Jeff
The right side compartment behind the front steer was a catchall mess. I never did anything with it until now as it was basically a place to toss loose tools and parts. Since I had to remove two bolts holding the cross braces of the condenser for the now defunct and removed dash air, the exposure of the space made me realize it was time to clean it up. I have since welded the bolt heads to the back floor of the compartment so I would not need to get an assistant to hold the bolt when something underneath exterior needs to be tightened down. I have sanded the surface rust, Por-15 the space and installed new carpet tiles. Carpet has self adhesive strips on the backside but I also brushed on contact cement for a more secure and permanent hold. I do use deep plastic trays to keep stuff in so the carpets should stay clean.
During our very frigid cold snap, our water filter housing in the wet bay cracked. After much consternation,
I've found that a Pentair Pentek 150072 is a perfect replacement. This unit has the square type threads and mounts from the top.
No idea of this is the original or not. Just what is installed in our #277, 1991 model that we have had since 2015.
I found this one on Amazon.
Happy miles!
deg

