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Hey folks,

New to the community and am considering a 2014 2020p.  Any insights or information about this model would be helpful whether positive or negative.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

2018 Newmar Essex
2022 F150 toad

Kathleen and I originally wanted a no side 40 footer and ended up with a 45 with slides, I know everybody says why would you want a no slide coach when you have a slide coach well because they are a luxury item that comes with cost, extra weight slide seals and problematic hydraulics on the early versions. If you can work on things like this and have plenty of time then it's no issue but if you take it to Newell or have it done somewhere else it's a lot of money. I found myself working continuously on our coach to get it where it is today for a year and a half both of us have slaved to get our coach where it is. So we went back to the original plan but I want a series 60 not that I have anything against the 8v92s because they're a great motors it's just now I'm liking the series 60 as ours is dry as a bone and has never gave us a lick a problem other than when the turbo went out January 2023. To get to the point we bought a 96 Prevost 40 ft non-slide coach with the series 60. Driving it it's like driving a sports car compared to a semi not that I'm bad-mouthing Newell but we've never experienced a 40-footer non-slide driving ability in comparison to a 45 with all the extra weight from the slides. No not leaving The forum and we have no plans on selling the Newell, Kathleen suggestion is to give it to our son.

Hey all, I am at the Sanlan RV resort in Lakeland FL while attending Sun N Fun (I have an exhibitor booth) and had three failures over the last two days.

1. The accumulator tank fitting began leaking (it was a bad repair anyway by a previous owner) right now it's capped and I finished pre-assembly on a new set of fittings. Hopeully that WON'T leak.

2. The Dupree power dump valve blade broke along the bottom edge, so when retracted did not pull up the rubber piece and then crushed it when going down. Thankfully I am hooked up to sewer at the park, so no messy disaster. Since replaced with  new one with new gasket.

3. The power dump valve lower fitting was leaking and has a hairline crack on the swivel. I cannot for the life of me find one locally and shipping won't get here in time. I plugged the 1/4" air line for the moment and while it's slightly leaking it's holding well enough. The fitting is a 1/2" push on with a 10/32nd UNF mail thread.

Unless someone knows where to find one locally, I will ship a bunch back to the house and will replace when I get home.

Come and visit Sun N Fun... pretty cool stuff.

Cheers!

Coach was parked at the house for a day and becuase it was only a day I didn't plug in.  After 24 hours or so I got a notice on my phone that power was out and I went out to the coach and inverter had shut off and the fault light was on.  I fired up generator as I was leaving in coach in an hour or so and I still had 59% left on my SOC.  First time this has happened to me and I'm tyring to figure out what I should be looking for as we're heading out on a trip the end of the month and boondock the whole time and I'm not a fan of hearing the generator all the time.

I recently bought coach 165 and had the oil and coolant changed before I drove it from Las Vegas to my place 5 hours away. I gave the shop Delo 100 but they used 10w40. How urgent is it for me to change to the single weight?  I’d like to put another few trips on it before i  take it in to have the oil pan seal replaced and then put in the correct oil. I’d say probably 16 hours of driving. I have a mobile guy that can change the oil but cannot do the seal and don’t want to waste that expensive oil. The engine is in great shape with 70,000 miles. 
Thanks in advance,
Mark

Looking to tap into the braintrust here.
I plan to hardwire install a watchdog. 
Why some may ask!?! 
Well, I have one and it will allow me the extra Bluetooth power monitoring that I do not have. 
Have to, no. Want to, yes

So my question is a pro/con of installing before or after the existing Surge Guard ATS?

Last fall I had a major air leak in my front right air hose and had a new one installed at a shop(not the one that did my tag bushings wheel seals and bearing alignment)  So today took it for a ride went through a tight round about near my house and heard a pop clunk in my front right,thought what was that. Drive up interstate about 8mes then back to storage as rain was coming. I did notice stopping on exit ramp pressure dropped to 90psi then while parking in the garage while using a lot of break maneuvering in pressure dropping like crazy and could hear a lot of air. Aired it back up shoot off had my son step on break while I looked under and the fitting at the break chamber was snapped off and also they used Teflon tape on it.In Richards YouTube he said that’s not a good idea. My question is what would cause this hose to bust off?  Too short or over tightened?  If zoom in where the rubber meets the brass it looks messed up too

Connections and installation of the Air Force One from Demco manufacturing

I bought the Demco Air Force One in March 2024 to install on our coach and run the brake system on our 2006 Lexus LX470 (Toyota Land Cruiser).
There is an air tank that mounts to the coach that will have to be plumbed into the coach air brake system and will activate the AF1 when the brake pedal is pushed down in the coach.  
The AF1 consists of a main operating unit/module that is installed in the engine bay, an air cylinder (valve/plunger) that mounts to the physical brake in the vehicle, a hydro boost kit, quick connect kit for the toad and a breakaway system.  
There is also an alert system for when the brakes are applied in the toad or in case of a breakaway.  This can be wired up to the driver area or used wirelessly (with the correct equipment) and plugged in to the cigarette lighter in the driver compartment (along with all the other stuff you have plugged into that socket!) - I suppose it can be hard-wired into the 12-volt electrical system also. 

Connections and installation of the Air Force One from Demco manufacturing
I bought the Demco Air Force One in March 2024 to install on our coach and run the brake system on our 2006 Lexus LX470 (Toyota Land Cruiser).
There is an air tank that mounts to the coach that will have to be plumbed into the coach air brake system and will activate the AF1 when the brake pedal is pushed down in the coach.  
The AF1 consists of a main operating unit/module that is installed in the engine bay, an air cylinder (valve/plunger) that mounts to the physical brake in the vehicle, a hydro boost kit, quick connect kit for the toad and a breakaway system.  
There is also an alert system for when the brakes are applied in the toad or in case of a breakaway.  This can be wired up to the driver area or used wirelessly (with the correct equipment) and plugged in to the cigarette lighter in the driver compartment (along with all the other stuff you have plugged into that socket!) - I suppose it can be hard-wired into the 12-volt electrical system also. 
I will (hopefully) show the installation of both the toad and coach here.
Questions for those who have installed the AF1 on the coach: 
- Where did you install the air tank assembly
- I read through the threads I could find and will use what was suggested (I think it was to add a T in-line to the brake system on the coach but will research and update this) - I think that was the best/easiest suggestion… 
I stole the following from one of Richard’s comments and will try this method to get air to the toad from the coach:
“For the service air line, come up to the air line that feeds the six pack. It usually has a gauge on it. Install a tee and pull your service air from there. …snipped… Of course test this out first.  As a short cut for the sanity test. Use a couple of quick connects to temporarily plumb the AF1. Put the metered quick connect in the existing M&G coupling. Put the Air supply line quick connect into that air line connection in the lower left rear of the passenger engine bay. That will allow you to test the function.”  Original Post. 
More to come soon 

It was time to change out my resin on my DI system and I have to say I did a version of this video.  I could not figure out why he spliced that tube vs. just using one solid piece of tube which is what i did.  Was a standard size PVC from Home Depot and oddly enough the pre-cut little chunk was the perfect length.  Could not have been easier and took all of 15 minutes from start to finish with zero mess.

https://youtu.be/xJ2Dt_s2TPo?si=gqOukuzr3zJUq2c3

I bought my system and the replacement resin at https://di-rinse.com/online-shop/ .

Just file this away in case you ever need it. The air bags on the Ridewell suspension coaches are connected using 1 inch diameter hoses and large 37 degree JIC fittings. They can be a problem to seal back up when changing air bags. Which leads to overtightening, which will be a pain if you ever need to remove the fitting again. I have learned this the hard way. 

I bought some of these. https://flaretite.com/collections/37-jic...ite-coated  as some an experiment. I had the opportunity to play with them today, and installed them on the air bag fittings. I intentionally moderately snugged the fitting nut. Bubble tight at 120 psi. 

Just thought I would pass it on. I had no idea these things existed.