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Aqua Hot unit blew a fuse that controlled the pumps & fans.  Called my friend and in just a minute identified the problem was the heat exchanger fan motor on the basement on my coach.  Disconnected heat exchanger motor and now have heat in coach.  Waiting for new motor which is a VDO PM393.  In 15 years I have replaced this motor 3 or 4 times.

THANK YOU RUDY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


   

I have decided to replace 4 of my 2018 era 8D lifeline batteries with 4 lithium. 

They work. No guarantee as to the condition passed that. 

No shipping. Local pickup or delivery. I'm near Buckeye Az. 

Make me an offer any offer.

On a recent trip, I  noticed that the coolant expansion tank (in the rear engine area) had a pin hole size leak (Coach #1517) The tank is aluminum.  I did a temporary fix using JB Weld and it is holding for now.  I checked with Newell and they no longer use the same tank.  A new one is $956 (Wow!) 

I am taking the coach there next month for the annual service and they seem pretty confident that trying to repair the leak by welding will work.

Has anyone else had this issue with their coach

Thanks

Hi, my name is Bob I have a 1973 30' Newell with a 390 I motor. It has a Rockwell rear end mod # C100HDX6. the axle shaft in this rear end is broken the part number is 3202-M-2717. Of course, they don't make these anymore.  I'm looking for a used one, or someone who can make a new one. any help would be appreciated.

Hi, my name is Bob I have a 1973 30' Newell with a 390 I motor. It has a Rockwell rear end mod # C100HDX6. the axle shaft in this rear end is broken the part number is 3202-M-2717. Of course, they don't make these anymore.  I'm looking for a used one, or someone who can make a new one. any help would be appreciated.

Still recovering from freeze issues - found we need parts for the bath/shower diverter valve to make he shower function. It is a Grohe unit AND they still have parts for our 1991 model! It is easy to work on and is very well built.

The odd part is that you push down for the shower. That makes the valve seat into the tub aerator which forces the water up to the shower head. If the aerator is cross threaded, it won't seal, because it isn't level to the plunger.

Therefore the # 45 167 assembly is probably the one most often needing replacement. Grohe's number is (855) 815-4726.    

Happy miles!
deg

On my 96 #423 I have 2 12V water bumps in the water back cabinet. If I connect city water and open that valve, but leave the PUMP (I only use one and keep the other for backup) will I have an issue?

I.e. will the tank fill/overfill? Over pressure in the system?

Ideally I'd simply like the tank to stay full and the pump to stay ON.

Otherwise, I will have to monitor my tank and fill when needed. I RARELY stay anyway for more than a couple or three days, but this time I will have access to water for a week.

What do you all think the best strategy would be?

Thanks!

Yeah, I know. when you hear hoof beats think horses not zebras. Only in Richard’s world does this bizarre reality happen. 

I bought a new toad. Maverick Hybrid. Took my time wiring up the lights. Diodes, shrink wrap, careful routing with a Newell quantity of zip ties, tinned ends, quality plugs, and such. 

Plugged it all in, and it’s wonky. Real wonky. One blinker doesn’t work, and the brake/running lights are asymmetrical. 

Ok, so it’s got to be me, some boneheaded miswire, or bad connection. So I start hours of troubleshooting checking the feed from the coach, making sure the colors match at the plugs, and feeding a 12V signal into the plug on the car. Still the same wonky behavior. I used a continuous ribbon cable from the front plug to the rear. No splices. I have voltage at the feed end but nothing at the exit for the turn signal. Ok, bad crimps or something. Cut off the ends and do it over. Same result. Voltage at one end , nada at the other. The wire had a discontinuity in it. Found by feeding in voltage and probing along the length of the wire. Voltage, voltage, voltage, NO voltage. Stripped the insulation to find a clean cut in the wiring. The insulation was intact. Go figure. OK, no problem, heat shrink butt splice, and the turn signal works. 

But wait there is more, what about the asymmetrical tail lights. Hmmmmmmm, triple check the color codes obtained from the interweb by a guy who has written a tome on the Maverick forums about how to wire the truck. It all looks to match what he posted. Swapped lights from side to side and the pattern stayed with the side not the light. Ok, that’s a clue, the wiring tapped into is wrong. Finally found an official Ford schematic. ARRRRGH, this guys wiring colors are WRONG. To give him the benefit of the doubt, let’s say, that Ford changed it from one model year to the next. 

Finally, working lights, I think I’ll go stream a couple episodes of My Pink Pony.

Look to sell to another loving person 
1968 . VIN#8B3055115 
30,000 ORIGINAL MILES.
   
Was Fully updated in 2000 by the factory 
Asking $6500. 
Located in Dekalb, IL.  60115.

I had to relocate the generator exhaust since the previous owner ran over something that crushed the pipe going up through the roof. Their repair was to cut the pipe and do a side exit using the crushed roof pipe bend as an anchoring point with a radiator hose clamp for securement. This worked fine but the pipes and hangers were 30 years old and looked janky. When I removed the air tanks, the exhaust was in the way which hindered tank removal and access to the fittings high above the tanks. I had cut the pipes out of the way to reconfigure them to a side exit behind the driver wheel area. In doing so I finally found out why my generator slide would hang up halfway with a delay before it came speeding out. The generator exhaust sleeve was dented since it sat on the front axle when the bags were deflated. I could not fix the dent since it was right in the center of the pipe so I cut out the damage and welded in a new curved piece. The pipe slides nicely now with no hangups. In the whole process I added V-band clamps to make it easy for exhaust pipe removal should the air tanks need to be removed in the future. Overall, it came out nice. I still need to paint the welds with high heat silver and install a new hanger for the generator sleeve pipe. That pipe had heat wrapping on it. Not sure if I should bother putting it back? Do you guys have any heat insulation wrap on your generator pipe where it exits and goes outside the coach?